i got one for you guys.....

I have a super h and it ALWAYS starts fast. you look at the starter button and its running. Well it was 60 for the 1st time this year here, so i took the super h for a spin. Run it 7 miles ran like a new one and lots of zip for the trip. anyhoo I got to dad's place and let it cool before i shut it off. When i went to go to restart it it just turned over very very fast. I first checked for spark. Yup good blue spark. the plugs were dry even though I tried choking it (which you should never have to do to an engine that is still warm to the touch. So I did a flow test on the carb, ran a pencil size stream for 30 seconds. so got good flow of gas but it wont get up into the engine. Next did a compression test with thumb and it blew it out of plug hole.. so just for the heck of it i had dad hold his hand over the intake of the carb blocking it totaly giving it full choke. hit the starter and she fired right up????? I don;t get it??? so i shut it down and went to start it again, same thing not getting gas to intake. so put hand over and started it back up and drover her home 7 miles it ran perfect not even a hicup or a pop. purred the whole way home. So i let it cool to shut off, i thought to myself... it will not restart with out my hand blocking the intake. But to my suprise it srarted right back up 3 times in a row just like normal. I dont understand why did we have to block the intake on carb to get it to start, shouldt the choke do this? Plus a warm engine should not need choke. any ideas comments are very appreacated. sorry for long post and bad spelling. john
 
It could be that your needle valve in the carb stuck up in the seat, blocking the flow of gas. Its now back to normal.
 
I had a small leaf the size of a dime get in my fuel tank and acted the same way.Much fun to find that trouble.
 
Probably caused by either a hot manifold and vapor locking or a hot fuel line. If it works just fine after it has cooled for a few hours then it is vapor locking
 
choke plate should be spring loaded so it prolly just stuck open & didnt close a few times. warm engines sometimes need choke for many different reasons.
 
(quoted from post at 04:52:53 03/23/09) I have a super h and it ALWAYS starts fast. you look at the starter button and its running. Well it was 60 for the 1st time this year here, so i took the super h for a spin. Run it 7 miles ran like a new one and lots of zip for the trip. anyhoo I got to dad's place and let it cool before i shut it off. When i went to go to restart it it just turned over very very fast. I first checked for spark. Yup good blue spark. the plugs were dry even though I tried choking it (which you should never have to do to an engine that is still warm to the touch. So I did a flow test on the carb, ran a pencil size stream for 30 seconds. so got good flow of gas but it wont get up into the engine. Next did a compression test with thumb and it blew it out of plug hole.. so just for the heck of it i had dad hold his hand over the intake of the carb blocking it totaly giving it full choke. hit the starter and she fired right up????? I don;t get it??? so i shut it down and went to start it again, same thing not getting gas to intake. so put hand over and started it back up and drover her home 7 miles it ran perfect not even a hicup or a pop. purred the whole way home. So i let it cool to shut off, i thought to myself... it will not restart with out my hand blocking the intake. But to my suprise it srarted right back up 3 times in a row just like normal. I dont understand why did we have to block the intake on carb to get it to start, shouldt the choke do this? Plus a warm engine should not need choke. any ideas comments are very appreacated. sorry for long post and bad spelling. john

" I dont understand why did we have to block the intake on carb to get it to start, shouldt the choke do this? "

An interesting question. I've seen many people use the hand in preference to the choke throughout my life. However, IF (note the IF) the choke plate is all intact & seals off the air rather completely, then I do not understand why this would work any better. I didn't say that it won't work any better. I said the I didn't understand why it would. As a matter of fact, IF all is well with the choke, it looks to me like the hand would not function even as well as the choke. Why, you say? Well, look at the drawing & see that the bowl vent is up stream of the choke. When the choke plate is closed and engine cranking, the nozzle & idle ports are exposed to a good vacuum & the bowl is exposed to the higher pressure of the atmosphere, thus forcing more than normal gas into the intake tract. NOW, when you apply your hand, (instead of the choke plate) you create this same vacuum for the nozzle, idle ports, AND the bowl. With this equalized pressure (now bowl is no longer at atmospheric, but at same vacuum as venturi) there is not the differential pressure to push more fuel into the intake tract.
Maybe, the answer is in that if hand seals everything off in the way of air, then it tries to suck gasoline straight from the fuel line/tank, overcoming the needle/float assy. Ought to be able to flood it right easily if that happens.
choke_mod.jpg
 
Also check manifold for leak and retorque sometimes after getting warm not pulling a good suction to get fuel to the pistons.
 
My brother and I have both, a '51 H and a '49 M. The H almost always needs a little choke to start if it's been shut down for more than 5 minutes and is stiil warm....and of course full on for a couple of compression strokes when it's cold and half choke for a minute or two after it's started......while the M usually doesn't need much choke to start when cold and never when warm. We don't make either of them pull anything until warmed up a little...2-3 minutes at least. H's and M's may look kinda alike (big and little brother), but there's a world of difference in their "character".
 

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