Carburetor

Hi,

Can anyone tell me the proper setting for the float on a carburetor on a Farmall C? It is a Carter U I have written down 1-5/32" to top of float and that isn't even close, it must be plus by 1/4". I have had it off before because of the same problem of leaking. Thanks! any help much appreciated.

Bob

ON MY C I SET IT LEVEL WITH THE BASE OF CARB. IT FIXED MINE. I WAS TOLD THAT CARTERS HAVE THAT PROBLEM.

As there are a number of different carter carbs used on these tractors, it is difficult to give a measurment. Ordinarily the float should be parallel to carb base. A lot of these needle and seats do not hold well. I like to take some measure to assure they do. If it has a viton tip needle I will coin the seat with a "suitable" tool. I usually use an old valve from an injection nozzle tip. If it is a steel tip I coin it.

Don't know the level but if you have that figure, you can easily check correctness of fuel level using a simple bowl instead of the bottom half of the carb. See attached photo. Let it sit for a while and you can see if anything leaks. Fuel may leak between the base of the carb (body) and valve seat, while the needle does not leak.
carb float level check

Bob: I'll give you a little tip on Carter Carbs, if you have one, drop it over a cliff. IH probably used a half dozen different Carter carbs on A, B, C, SA, etc. Today the aftermarket is trying to service all those carbs with two kits. While a lot of the parts are the same, some are only close. If you can make a Carter work properly, your a genius.

Zenith are some better, at least one can still get a kit for each carb, problem is the ID system on Zenith carbs is not great. If you get a patient parts man, patient enough to make sure kit is right, even I can make a Zenith work.

Thats a great idea. I have had the carb together with a fuel supply just to check the needle and seat but i like the idea of yours better.

wow, that is a great idea! simple and effective.

Hi Gentelmen,

I really appreciate your comments as they are helpful.

Hugh, I know what you mean! I don't like them, but have several lying around. This one works well it just leaks. I adjusted once before and it made a difference, but still has a slow leak. I probably will have to resort to purchasing a new carburetor, are there any suggestions as to which one?

Hendrik, I don't understand base of body and valve seat leaking? I understand valve needle coming up against valve seat to stop gas flowing into base. I like the picture and will try and understand.

Pete 23, Can the needle tip and valve seat be lapped together? What is coin?

Slick 50, That I do understand.

Thank you all!

Bob

If you do go to replacement, a Zenith 14007 is pretty much the standard for the 113/123 motors, and commonly available.

AS fara Hendrik's very clever idea, he's just substituting an open bowl for the regular closed-up bowl on the carb. Mount the carb to a board long enough to stradle the bowl. Run gas down to the carb, let it run until it lifts the float, and then monitor the level of the gas in the bowl to determine whether the needle is closing off the gas properly.

Coining is basically smacking metal with a punch or other tool of the right size and shape to make a seat for whatever it is that has to fit into the seat. So if the needle has a 45* angle, you would grind and polish a punch to a 45* angle, then give the seat for the needle a couple of good tunks with the punch to make sure it is the correct angle (I almost said right angle, which isn't 45*) for the needle to seat and to knock down any burrs, etc., that could be keeping the needle from seating. Very important to have everything -- tool and seat both -- good and clean before doing this.

Never considered or tried it or even heard of it, but I suppose with a drill press to keep things straight and at very low speeds, you could try lapping a steel needle in, as long as you cleaned things up well afterwards.

The valve seat is a separate threaded part which screws into the carb body. Gas may leak through the threads, giving you the false impression that the needle is not seating properly on the valve seat. (Don't remember if there is a gasket between valve seat and carb body.)
HTH. Hendrik

Hi Gentelmen,

OK! Thanks! I will give these ideas a try and let you know what I find. If the carburetor can't be fixed it's out of here! I will scrimp around and find a good carburetor.

Bob

Hi Hendrik,

OK, got ya! The seat I believe is brass, and would usually not require a gasket. Though if tolerances are open .010-.012 instead of .001-.002 it would be a good idea to have a gasket.
Thanks for clearing that up.

Bob