Electrical problem on a H

This is based on my old brains recollection but NO WARRANTY so dont anyone have a calf lol it may be right it may be wrong TAKE OR LEAVE AS YOU WELL PLEASE

A coil will still produce a spark at EITHER polarity, however speaking energy wise the system operates more efficient if correct. It has to do with (thermionic emission) how it's easier (less energy wasted/expended) to emit electrons from a relatively HOTTER source (plugs electrode hanging out there in the HOTTTTT TT combustion chamber) to a relatively colder (plugs ground strap and threads into the cooled cylinder head) surface. Thats why in a radio vacuum tube there's a heater under the cathode from which electrons are emitted to the cooler plate.

NOTE she still fires at right or wrong polarity and I wonder if ones eyes might be able to note the difference BUT HEY IF ONE HAS GOOD EYESIGHT who am I to know or question what they see or claim ????? ???? Im NOT saying or judging or questioning...

A physicist friend of mine (the late Duane Larson) ran some tests and measured the voltage at which a plug fired when the coil was wired right or wrong HE FOUND THE PLUGS FIRED (current arc jumped the plug gap) AT SEVERAL THOUSAND VOLTS LESS AT THE RIGHT POLARITY versus when wrong in which case coil voltage had to raise higher (coil had to work more and wasted more heat energy) before current arc jumped the plugs gap BUT OF COURSE PLUGS STILL FIRED.

ALSO a Magneto with its North South rotating magnet fires at different polarity each time (subject to type of mag and its operation and gearing) YET PLUGS STILL FIRE

ALSO ITS MY OPINION theres a reason why coil manufacturers bother to label coil leads + and - or Battery and Distributor or whatever.

So until proven otherwise thats my story and Ima stickin to it lol IE Coil polarity matters..... ...It will still fire if wired backwards..... .....Its best and more energy efficient IF WIRED CORRECT AS LABELED..... ..How much if any difference in spark energy or what some person claims to see IM NOTTTTT SAYING

John T Again NO warranty if this is true or false, believe anything you like have a different opinion NO PROBLEM but please with all due respect to one another

As for positive or negative ground, that's gonna be hard to guess at with no battery in it. It was positive ground 6v from factory, but that means nothing now unless it has been unchanged. For what it's worth, battery posts are different sizes. One being larger around than the other. You ussually can't switch them around if the clamps were only spread open just enough to get the cable off of the post. This might be a sign as to how it was. But if the clamps were spread open further than needed to remove the cables, this means nothing. As in, either cable will fit on either post. If so, your back to knowing nothing from this.

The original generator, light switch, and so on, would be indicators of an unchanged 6v positive ground system. If you know what those original parts look like.

Pictures of what you have, would be of tremendous help here. Otherwise, we can only give you limited advice.

It's possible for the impulse to not trip on a mag. Especially if gummed up, and tractor not ran in years.

Also, my understanding the coil will still work if hooked up backwards (as in previous owner didn't have it hooked up right).

You never know what you might run into. While all advice givin here is good advice, it's still like I already said, going to be limited based on the main post info alone. Nobody gonna be able to say things for sure, without seeing/looking.

Thanks again, big question is still the type ground but from the info provided by all here I bet it is a neg ground

ARE YOU SURE THE AMMETER IS WIRED CORRECT AND WORKS????? If you turn the lights or ignition on (if coil ignition not a mag) when shes not running, the ammeter should swing over to the - discharge direction, does yours??? Are BOTH the ammeter terminals reading hot battery voltage?? They MUST !!!!! ! Theres but one wire on the ammeters Supply (from battery/starter) terminal while its other Load terminal wires to the BAT terminal on a Cutout relay or VR PLUS wires to feed loads like lights or ignition, UNLESS where a 4 terminal VR is used, and if so lights n ignition are fed from the LOAD terminal on the VR.

To Polarize the Generator, first temporarily dead ground the Gens Field post to case/frame, then momentarily flash jump a wire from the Cutout Relay or VR's BAT terminal over to its GEN/ ARM) terminal and you ought to get a small spark. Same things accomplished by momentarily flash jumping a hot wire (BAT terminal on Cutout Relay or VR or starter post etc) direct to the Gens ARM post to get the spark.

TROUBLESHOOTING A CHARGING PROBLEM IN CLASS A DELCO TYPE SYSTEMS

1) For a good working Gen to get to and charge the battery, it has to have a path usually from the Gens ARM post,,,,, ,,,,To and through the Cutout Relay (between its GEN and BAT terminals, regardless if on a VR or Relay),,,,, ,,,Up to the Load (NOT to battery) side of the Ammeter,,,,, ,,,To and through the Ammeter,,,,, ,,,,From BAT side of Ammeter to ungrounded battery terminal, often via the starter lug post. Is yours wired that way or equivalent ??? The ammeter should read hot battery voltage on BOTH terminals, does yours??? Even if an ammeter were stuck (but still continuous) as RPM increases the battery voltage should rise from 12.6 to near 14 volts and/or the lights glow brighter (half that on 6 volt systems). Have you tried that in case the ammeter isnt working right?????

2) If the above is so, the BAT terminal on the VR or Cutout Relay MUST ALWAYS READ HOT BATTERY VOLTAGE. Does yours??? If not, the Gen cant get to and charge the battery.

3) The Gen to VR (if it has one) wiring is as follows:

BAT on VR to ammeters load (NOT battery) side

ARM (or GEN) on VR to Gens Armature post.

FLD on VR to Gens Field post.

(L) Load (if you have a 4 wire VR) up to BAT supply input terminal on switch to feed loads like lights and ignition.

WIRING ON CUTOUT RELAYS: They wire BAT side to ammeters Load terminal,,,,, GEN side to gens Armature post. On cutout relay systems, the Gens Field post is wired to the light switch where it gets a dead ground for high charge or a resistive ground for low charge. Therefore, there must be a good connection from the Gens Field post up to the switch PLUS the switch is good and its well grounded !!!!! !!

4. THE GEN AND VR OR CUTOUT RELAY MUST BE WELL GROUNDED AND THE BELT GOOD N TIGHT. If any doubt, run a ground wire from the grounded battery post or clean solid frame member direct to the Gen and see what happens????? ????? ????? ????? ????

NOW, if the Gen and VR are grounded,,,,,all is wired correct,,,,, ,,BAT terminal on VR or Cutout Relay is HOT,,,,, ,,Belt is tight,,,,, ,,,Ammeter is good n continuous n works but she wont charge, have you had the batteries tested lately????? Is there electrolyte above all the plates and no cells have a gray or milky appearance????? A bad battery may not accept a charge you know!!!!! !! If the battery checks okay, proceed below to see if its a Gen or VR problem (AFTER you have insured the wiring per the above)

TO DETERMINE IF ITS A GEN OR VR OR CUTOUT RELAY PROBLEM

5. a) VOLTAGE REGULATOR SYSTEM: With the tractor running, temporarily ground the Gens Field post to case. If she charges then but NOT otherwise, the VR may be bad, or a wires missing from VR's Field post to the Field terminal on the VR, or the VR isnt well grounded.

b) IF ITS A CUTOUT RELAY SYSTEM and she charges only if you dead ground the Field but NOT otherwise, its either a bad switch or the switch isnt well grounded or else the wires bad or open from the Gens Field post up to the switch. INSURE THAT GOOD SWITCH GROUND AND WIRING

6. If she still dont charge, leave the Field grounded and jump a wire across from the VR or Cutout Relays BAT terminal over to its GEN terminal (jump by passes the cutout relay) and see if she charges. If then but not otherwise, a VR's cutout relay isnt working correct (maybe points burned/carboned) or a Cutout Relays NOT working or not wired correct.

7. With the 2 steps above, you have basically by passed the VR or Cutout relays functions, so if she still dont charge, you're left with a bad battery or wiring or the Gen itself.

8. MOTOR TEST. You can Motor test the Gen. If its grounded and you remove the belt and apply hot battery voltage direct to its ARM Post and have the Field Post dead grounded to frame, it should motor n run well (Armature n Brushes and Commutator likely okay). Then, if you next remove the Fields ground and it speeds up some, the Fields probably good. If it passes both those tests, it should charge, and if not, it may be a wiring or battery or grounding problem. The hot battery voltage may be taken off the VR's BAT terminal or the starter post or the battery itself for this test.

9. Typical Gen problems may be the brushes are worn down or the hold down spring assemblies are stuck/corroded/dirty and arent pushing the brushes tight down against the commutator. Check those things out. Worse may be bad fields or armature etc. Air and WD 40 etc can clean and free them, the hold downs must be free n snap and hold the brushes DOWN TIGHT and they cant be worn down too low.

SUMMARY: Check the wiring,,,,,the grounds,,,,, insure BAT on VR or Relay is hot,,,,, ,check battery (maybe load tested and Specific Gravity checked),,,,, ,,,good tight belt,,,,, ,insure ammeter is continuous (BOTH sides HOT),,,,, see if battery voltage rises above 12.6 (half that for 6 volt system) and/or light glow brighter,,,,, ,,,do the Field and cutout relay VR by pass checks,,,,, ,,insure the Gens brushes arent worn down and the hold down springs are free n clean and push the brushes down tight,,,,, ,,,,,check the connections,,,,, ,,,try the Gen Motor Test to see if its good.

You may just have a bad battery or bad ground or connection if the Gen and VR or relay are okay. Good Luck n God Bless, let us all know.

John T Nordhoff in Indiana, retired Electrical Engineer