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Farmall H not timed?

H

henrye4020

New User
I suppose this is a fairly common question, but after about 2 years of sitting (it ran before) in an insulated shop, I cannot get my h to start. We put new plugs and a cap on it before trying, and it has good spark. After turning it over for a while, it will leak fuel out of the carb, so I am assuming it is getting fuel. It will pop once or twice, but will not run. Do I have timing issues? I may have plug wires swapped, but I thought they all went back on the way they came off. I know it is hard to diagnose like this... maybe you fellas could help
Thanks,
Henry
 
After sitting 2 years I'm sure the fuel is no good. Firing order is 1,3,4,2. The carb is probably all varnished up also and would need rebuild
 
Dry cylinders possibly ,shoot 30 wt with mystery oil into each cylinder, crank it with plugs out 5 or 7 turns ( or 2 cycle oil) . Take valve cover off and check that the valves are opening and closing. Skirts some oil on valve stems and rockers .

Did you say it was firing ? Was it firing at number one when number one was compression. Check one valves are closed . Check 342 also

Something simple, you will get it going !
 
If it ran before, and you did not take off the distributer or magneto, and you did not loosen it up at its mounting point and turned it at its mounting point, you don't have a timing issue. The timing don't change on a tractor just sitting in storage. You have to change it yourself for it to be wrong. Or something has to break, for it to not be right.

I think your thinking to far out of the box. You need to go back to a spark test, and verify that you have spark on all 4 plugs. The plug wires are on right, 1,3,4,2. And if that don't cut it, your problem is on the fuel side. Bad gas. Sticking float needle valve. Plugged carb jet. Not enough, or to much choke. Throttle not open enough (all the way closed). Anyways, something not right on the fuel side. And no, this doesn't mean you should go out and buy a new carb kit, sediment bowl, and fuel shut off valve, and add an in-line fuel filter, and all kinds of other jazz. What ever is wrong, is just because the tractor has set un-used, and is probably simple, and just needs a little attention. It just needs figured out, and not a bunch of new parts throwed at it in the process.
 
No, timing will not change do not add insult to injury loosening the distributor and moving it around. The points may need a little clean off with some sand paper and then a clean up pass with a piece of cereal box to clean any remain grit. If installed and timed in the normal stock position the distributor cap terminal at the 1-2 oclock position looking from the back is number 1. Then proceed clockwise 1..3,4,2. A quick check of fuel would be to see if gas flows out of the carb hood. Remove the drain plug. It should flow out a couple of cups that are in the carb bowl and then continue to flow steady and not slow to just a dribble.
 
Pop once or twice and fuel dripping out of the carb. Sounds flooded to me. Remove air cleaner pipe from carb , shut the gas off and try it.
 
Pull the plugs and heat them with a propane torch (hot, but not crispy) then put a teaspoon of gasoline in each cylinder. Start it. Jim
 
give it about 4 or 5 good shots of oil in the cyl's when plugs are out. sure helps out the compression for starting. firing order is 1342 clockwise looking from the back. number 1 wire is at 2:00 oclock position from factory and still should be there if not screwed up. no sense touching timing if it ran before. timing can be checked on the tune up.
 
If it was in timing when parked it will still be now. Timing doesn't just jump out of place unless the distributor some how has locked up and then you would not see the rotor move when you had to cap off
 
I agree with rusted, put oil in the cylinders, not gas! When I do prime an engine I used mixed chainsaw gas, they need the lubrication after sitting.
 
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