Adding sway chains to fast hitch?

Luke9

Member
This is specific to my 300U, and I'm not familiar enough with other models using the fast hitch to know if the geometry is similar...

But is there a good method for adding sway chains for lateral stability of the fast hitch when used with the 3 point adapters? At fixed height with a drawbar the flatbar stabilizers work fine, but what if you want to still adjust height with a brush hog or box scraper? The lateral link takes a hell of a side load.

Ideally you'd like to have the anchor point of the chains in the same axis as the front pivot of the 3 point arms, but the fast hitch puts that very far forward.
 
As I look at more photos online, maybe this is what was intended for that purpose? Called the offset link. I still can't quite figure out if that limits the side sway, or exactly how it does. Can somebody with the offset link installed describe its funtion?


mvphoto97681.jpg

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I assume you have the original style Fast-Hitch (with the top link connection on the rockshaft). You should get reasonable sway control when the pin is in the lower hole on the right side link between the rockshaft and the bail (socket). If you have the later Traction-Control hitch (like pictured in your second post), sway control is done by proper placement of the pin in parts 32/33/34.
 

Correct, it is the rockshaft connected top link. The pins are getting some wear which allows the side to side movement, but even when tight the design allows a lot of torque onto the toplink pin and rockshaft arm.

I was hoping to take the load off these parts if there was an easy method. Might just have to re-bush and re-pin.
 
Look at Key 1 in the linked parts page, in your diagram
it is key 23 which is pointing to the shaft end of it. The
hitch types are slightly different so that is why it is
reversed in the parts diagram. It sets in that tube
sleeve of part 22. So that part DISREGARDING ANY
WEAR cannot twist sideways as you are seeing the
drawbar swing ..laterally.. A pin dropped through the
hole in the flat bar on the end of that will limit drawbar
swing yet be able to rotate up and down for raise and
lower of the hitch. When the pin is moved to the slot in
the bar, side to side swing is allowed. The problem is
..extensive field testing.. wears out all the joints and
the swing of the drawbar is not limited as it was when
all was new. The F350 we had on the farm required
that part 1 in the link needed removed and welded
back up and ground to fit to help cut down on that
slack. We used it a lot on a square baler the back and
forth of the hay plunger wears the fast hitch pivot
points at an increased rate.
Parts diagram
 
Pin 34 in the Used Redman image is the sway limiting pin. As noted they can be worn enough to allow an inch+ of sway, but not 8
inches. If worn, (mine was) drill it out to a next standard size and put a grade 8 bolt in and tighten. Jim
 
Looks like the majority of my slop is in the 1 1/4" pin holes at the top of the laterel link, #22 here, along with the bolts/pins lower in that same piece. I suspect its worth spending some time trying to repair these before inventing an alternate sway control method. Welding some set collars to the outside of the sloppy holes might be the ticket, unless somebody has a lateral link laying around in their parts pile.

mvphoto97704.jpg


UsedRed, the square baler hookup definitely makes me cringe when watching every pin and hole getting beat up.

thanks for the info and suggestions, everybody.
 
A pair of chains crossed like an X from the top of the right lift link to the bottom of the left lift link and the other way with turn buckles to tighten them
would force it to stay centered and travel with the hitch up and down! Jim
 
I have a 300u-grew up on it-has close to 8000hrs on it. Back in the day, it was the baling tractor. You are
correct-the excessive side to side play is in the r/s upper lift arm. Mine has been that way since forever.
To me it is not a problem, just a poor design. I have studied it too for a way to control the side-to-side
play for a long time. But nothing seems feasible. If you use chains, I doubt you could raise and lower the
drawbar without damage to something.
If you come up with a way, please let me/us know-preferably with pictures, good luck. Mark.
 
Rather than weldind a bushing os some sort to the outside,you should bore(or torch cut) the hole to accomodat a bushing to be welded in. Then grind it back smooth.It will look factory.To get rid of slop,a
simple chain and boomer will fix that.
 
A pair of chains crossed like an X from the top of the right lift link to the bottom of the left lift link...

Hmmm, maybe I was overthinking this. Your solution sounds like it will work. It doesn't transfer the load directly back to the tractor frame, but at least the rockshaft arms are a stable point. Great idea!

bore(or torch cut) the hole to accomodat a bushing to be welded in...To get rid of slop,a
simple chain and boomer will fix that.

DeltaRed, the insert bushing is definitely cleaner. It will depend on how enthusiastic I feel once I get there. Not sure what a "boomer" is...same idea as Janicholson??

Maybe boomer is a regional thing. Seems like most of the country says "bush hog" but here in the PNW I've almost always heard them called "brush hog".
 
A boomer is a chain tightening device (used originally in trucking) that uses overcenter linkage to
tighten chains at various levels of tension. Jim
 

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