560 missing control rod bracket

So my new-to-me 560 has had a wide front fitted, but the control rod bracket is missing. I see that thrre is an upper and a lower half, but also see sets of shims available. Should I just buy the shims and use as necessary? Is there a process for figuring out what you need there other than fit it and see? I'm assuming that socket gets packed with grease.
 

Yeah...I would think that while there should be no real movement, there is slight movement...and movement creates friction, creates wear.
 

Got the upper and lower halves of the socket, and a set of shims incoming. Looking at some pictures, and at least one parts breakdown, it looks like some of these had a metal "strap" over the top cap held on by the bolts. I can't find this strap anywhere available. I'm assuming it's because the top shell of the socket is cast, and may be more brittle- should I fabricate a metal strap for this?
 
(quoted from post at 12:18:30 09/07/22) Why do you not want to put grease on the socket? I know there is no grease zerk, just curious

The tractor operates in a dusty gritty environment. Dust and grit stick in the grease. Dusty gritty grease becomes lapping compound, grinding more than lubricating.

Really you should grease often to keep pushing the old grease out, preventing the lapping compound from working its way back in, or not at all so there is no lapping compound to begin with.
 
(quoted from post at 15:43:55 09/14/22)
Got the upper and lower halves of the socket, and a set of shims incoming. Looking at some pictures, and at least one parts breakdown, it looks like some of these had a metal "strap" over the top cap held on by the bolts. I can't find this strap anywhere available. I'm assuming it's because the top shell of the socket is cast, and may be more brittle- should I fabricate a metal strap for this?

Most likely the ball is worn and you won't need any shims.

The "strap" is actually a locking tab if I'm not mistaken. Once the bolts are tight you bend a corner of the tab down over the bolt head to keep it from backing out. At least that is the idea. In practice their effectiveness is debatable.
 
(quoted from post at 03:37:50 09/15/22)
(quoted from post at 15:43:55 09/14/22)
Got the upper and lower halves of the socket, and a set of shims incoming. Looking at some pictures, and at least one parts breakdown, it looks like some of these had a metal "strap" over the top cap held on by the bolts. I can't find this strap anywhere available. I'm assuming it's because the top shell of the socket is cast, and may be more brittle- should I fabricate a metal strap for this?

Most likely the ball is worn and you won't need any shims.

The "strap" is actually a locking tab if I'm not mistaken. Once the bolts are tight you bend a corner of the tab down over the bolt head to keep it from backing out. At least that is the idea. In practice their effectiveness is debatable.

Wwll, better to have the shims and not need them, though I'm amazed how much they charge!. You don't believe the metal strap is needed to reinforce the cap assembly? Maybe I'm just paranoid.
 
Well, putting this bracket on and I'm seeing some issues lining it up. The "ball" is sitting a few inches lower than the upper half of the bracket. If I put a jack under the control rod, it gets a little closer, but eventually starts lifting the whole front end. I was thinking there was a certain amount of flex in the control rod, but I don't see how it will align unless it really settles while I keep it jacked up.
Do I need to loosen up the front bracket while supporting the front end fully? Or is there some other trick to this? Or a chance that the front end is damaged or bent to the point that it won't meet correctly without some parts replaced?
mvphoto97379.jpg



This post was edited by gomi_otaku on 09/19/2022 at 08:32 am.
 
Looking at the side view photograph, it looks like the ball on the control arm is perfectly in libe with the pivot pin as it should be- so I don't understand how this could possibly line up. Is there a rear mounting point that hangs LOWER than what I have under the oil pan? This tractor had a wide front originally, switched to narrow, then got a wide front again- so I'm not sure if some parts were different between the years that may have changed something.
 
(quoted from post at 06:29:45 09/20/22)
Are you sure there isn't a block missing from your mount?

I'm assuming you mean the rear mount below the oil pan. Not according to any parts breakdowns I've seen. I'm wondering of that mount came in different versions, and I have a "high" version and need a "low" version. The front piece, what they call the "bolster" looks correct according to parts breakdown, but I've seen a "lower" version on other models, but the mounting pattern is different so I can't swap that out.
If anybody out there has a 560D and can take some measurements to compare I'd appreciate it.
 
(quoted from post at 11:14:10 09/20/22) Frankly I would just figure out how much steel plate you need to make up the difference, drill three holes in it/them, and use longer bolts.

If you look at the pictures, it's at least 2 inches. Maybe more since I've got a jack under it.
 
Well, I found the correct "saddle" or "bolster" on Ebay. Was 170 but I put it on my watch list and it went 40% off, I bought it. Fits perfect.
mvphoto97896.jpg


Which means I have this lower saddle, part number 360406 RI which seems to be from a Super M and some other 400 series...?

This post was edited by gomi_otaku on 10/02/2022 at 08:22 pm.
 
Turned out I did NOT need the shims at all. And of course, the saddle came with the ball mounting halves, after I bought them both.


mvphoto97897.jpg
 

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