Re: CASE IH 595 - Clutch dragging when Hot

If it is dragging hot I would look at the pilot bearing for lack of lubrication before changing the whole clutch out. Also when was the last time the throwout bearing was greased. Was this a fence row tractor just gotten running? IF so it may just be rust on the disk and flywheel or pp.

Hi my brother had a similar problem on his on his CIH 3230 this spring. The 3230 is one generation newer than your 595 but mostly just changes to the tin work.
His 3230 was made in 1997 and is a loader tractor and the clutch had never been changed so he just went to CaseIH and ordered the complete clutch kit for $500 plus and waited a week for the kit to arrive.
When we split it we found that the adjustment bolt on one of the fingers of the pressure plate had came loose and back out so that finger was not releasing the pressure plate from the clutch plate.
We could have fixed the pressure plate finger adjusting bolt but the splines on the PTO drive on the pressure plate were getting worn and the clutch disk would probably have lasted another year but went
ahead and did a complete bearing, clutch and pressure plate job.

Does your 595 have a cab?
Also you will have to determine if it has an 11 inch or 12 inch clutch installed in it? You can do that by looking through the inspect plate at the bottom of the clutch housing and examining the pressure
plate.
Link to 12 inch clutch parts photos: https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Farmall-595_Clutch-Kit_17127070.html
Link to 11 inch clutch parts photo: https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Farmall-395_Clutch-Kit_S61265.html

Use the [Send Email] option of this site to send me an email.

If any of the scenario's people described to you are the problem. Torque specs of whatever you want engine, bolt, or what will be pretty worthless till you find the problem. Some of them you would have to split the tractor or look up inside through the inspection cover on the bottom to find out. If a finger as Jim described you might be able to see that not releasing with a helper to work the clutch pedal. If one of the other issues you will need to split it so torque specs will also be worthless till you start putting it back together. I never put much value on torque figures on bolts. I just tighten them as I think they should be. If it is something like s specific thing I may look at or consider the torque on a bolt for tightness other wise I just use my personal feel as I tighten bolts. No you can't tighten a 1/2 inch bolt like you do a 3/4 bolt. I've never had an engine come apart from wrong bolt torque nor a wheel come off because of it either. If you stay with your original post you will not have this thread scattered all over so nobody gives good answers without doing it twice or more times also. Not criticism just information.

If you want to see all the IH bolt specs, it is given in the IH 74 Series Service Manual at link below.
IH 74 series manuals

Thank you for the response and sorry for my late response.. My email notifications dont seem to be working. Im gonna do what you suggest in the AM.... remove the inspection plate and take a look. Like you, I bought a clutch kit and its sitting in my barn. I don't think the clutch has ever been replaced in this tractor. But, if i could get a bit more out of till the winter, I will take it.

The tractor has been used for many, many years. She starts and runs great. Primarily used for mowing, and picking up trees and brush. Im going to look inside the inspection plate tomorrow. Thank you, really appreciate your input.

Tractor is split, Clutch is out. Clutch is completely gone. I had ordered a kit, but ordered the 11inch kit. Once I had this one out, I realized I needed the 12 inch kit. Flywheel actually looks OK, but will take it to the shop in the AM to have it refinished.

Question - the rear of the compartment, where the throw out bearing is, was pretty wet when I opened it up. Looks like tranny fluid is leaking in. Is that the seal that needs to be replaced or is there other items to look at?

Thank you.