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CASE IH 595 - Clutch dragging when Hot

K

Kdtjlamb

New User
Hello. I have a question about clutch behavior that Id like some guidence on, before splitting the tractor in half for a clutch replacement job.
Tractor - Case IH 595 w / Loader.
Symptoms:
Cold engine - Runs good, Clutch engages with Power, no issues.
Warm engine - In any gear, when I let off the clutch peddle, the tractor struggles to get going. However, it will eventually get going. On a slight incline, when I let off the clutch, the tractor will actually sit there for seconds (like 10-15 seconds), then actually engage and start going up hill. Engine Power is good. PTO and Loader power is good.

If it sits and the engine cools down, it behaves fine.

My question is Since the clutch does engage fine when cold, and eventually engages when hot Im wondering if this is actually a clutch issue or some thing else.

Thoughts?
 
(quoted from post at 09:24:20 06/26/22) Hello. I have a question about clutch behavior that Id like some guidence on, before splitting the tractor in half for a clutch replacement job.
Tractor - Case IH 595 w / Loader.
Symptoms:
Cold engine - Runs good, Clutch engages with Power, no issues.
Warm engine - In any gear, when I let off the clutch peddle, the tractor struggles to get going. However, it will eventually get going. On a slight incline, when I let off the clutch, the tractor will actually sit there for seconds (like 10-15 seconds), then actually engage and start going up hill. Engine Power is good. PTO and Loader power is good.

If it sits and the engine cools down, it behaves fine.

My question is Since the clutch does engage fine when cold, and eventually engages when hot Im wondering if this is actually a clutch issue or some thing else.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Does your tractor have a cab?

If it DOES it uses a hydraulic clutch, with a master cylinder and slave cylinder.

It sounds to me like that's what you have and the master cylinder has a problem that keeps fluid from returning to the reservoir and is keeping the clutch from engaging.

If that's what you have, have you ever checked the clutch master cylinder fluid or added fluid?

Some tractors use a special fluid, rather than common automotive brake fluid, the Operator's Manual should have that info, and the reservoir cap is likely marked.

If the wrong fluid has ever been added, or it's just old and nasty that could explain problems with the system.
 
Hello Klamb welcome to YT! There are several
transmission options for your tractor, do you have the
hi - lo shift in each gear that does not require the
clutch to shift, it is called a 16 speed. The two speed is
what IH used to call a TA? I am no expert on those
tractors but I would say that two speed is probably
where your problem is at. There are probably some
pressure checks and other tests that should be
preformed before splitting the tractor. If this is the
type of transmission you have does it act the same in
both high and lo? Per parts diagrams the main clutch
operated by the pedal in your tractor is a normal dry
single disc clutch. One question would be does it have
any free play at the pedal. Not knowing your
mechanical knowledge that means a distance of
minimal resistance in the first part of clutch pedal
travel. Just to eliminate this as a cause a half inch of
easy movement would eliminate the adjustment as the
cause to your problem. What happens is as the clutch
wears it decreases the free play. Then at a point when
no free play remains the clutch begins to be held in a
position of near release. I would almost think if this
was your problem during hard use when cold you
would still be able to make it slip. The clutches in the
two speed are engaged by hydraulic pressure. Just as
an example if a seal on a piston inside the clutch pack
was leaking oil past it, as oil warms up it passes
through such a leak more easily. So in other words this
would possibly cause the piston to apply less pressure
on the two speed clutch packs when hot and thus slip.
Looking closer this could also apply to a transmission
option that has a forward and reverse shuttle shift as
well. I am attaching the CNHI parts diagrams for your
tractor. At the linked page go to Power train, the click 6-020. This will open the preview pictures of all the power train subsections. 6-020 and 6-022 are the two speed diagrams which I do not know what the difference is between to two, 6-028 is the forward-reverse option. Clicking those preview pics opens the parts list of the subsection. Hopefully someone else like Cat guy will chime
in with more info for you. I would recommend that you
do not use it anymore if something is slipping for 10 -
15 seconds, doing that is likely causing more damage.
CNHI 595 parts diagrams
 
In the Power train parts diagram subsections 6-052, 6-
054 and 6-056 apply to what wore out is talking about.
The diagrams are laid out weird, the clutch pedal in
054 connects to 31 in 052 to operate the master
cylinder 14 that is connected to the fluid reservoir.
Sure is a lot of ..Unavailable.. popping up when I check
part numbers. If this is your problem to source parts
you may end up going through an aftermarket parts
supplier like All States Ag Parts. Another tip would be
use the IH part numbers and web search for options.
 

Thanks. The tractor has a H/L shift and a 4speed shift. Both need to have the clutch engaged to shift either H/L or through the 1-4 gears. I have not tried in L, but can easily do that and reply. From what Ive researched , it is a single disk dry clutch. What you are saying makes sense with the hydraulic engaged clutch. The oil is pretty new, as I replaced the Hydro pump last summer and I used IH branded oil. BTW, this issue was starting to show up prior to the hydro pump replacement and has slowly gotten worse.

The clutch peddle does not have any free play and still engages / disengages with just a light touch. I mean, really light. To disengage, it is just a very light press. I believe these are self adjusting and dont have other manual adjustments, other than the peddle linkage.

Ill start looking at the diagrams you sent, much appreciated. Ive used Allstate ag parts for years on this tractor!
 
I believe you may have made an error assuming the
clutch was self adjusting, again I cannot say this with
100 percent certainty. Unless you have an operators
manual that says otherwise I am going to say your
clutch needs adjusted. I am going by a post by Cat

Guy who mentioned in a previous post that the 85 and
95 series tractors are much the same as the previous
74 and 84 series. I have access to a service manual for
those earlier machines and by that I believe the
following to be correct. In the diagrams I linked in my
other reply go to 6-050, you should be able to remove
the pin from yoke 18. Then loosen the lock nut on the
rod and thread the yoke onto the rod to add free play.
The actual spec for the earlier machines is 1 3/4 inch
down to 1 inch. But as I said even a 1/2 inch will make
sure the clutch is not being held in a partly released
position. There is a possibility that the cab tractor with
the hydraulic clutch could be considered self
adjusting.
 
(quoted from post at 19:48:47 06/26/22) I believe you may have made an error assuming the
clutch was self adjusting, again I cannot say this with
100 percent certainty. Unless you have an operators
manual that says otherwise I am going to say your
clutch needs adjusted. I am going by a post by Cat

Guy who mentioned in a previous post that the 85 and
95 series tractors are much the same as the previous
74 and 84 series. I have access to a service manual for
those earlier machines and by that I believe the
following to be correct. In the diagrams I linked in my
other reply go to 6-050, you should be able to remove
the pin from yoke 18. Then loosen the lock nut on the
rod and thread the yoke onto the rod to add free play.
The actual spec for the earlier machines is 1 3/4 inch
down to 1 inch. But as I said even a 1/2 inch will make
sure the clutch is not being held in a partly released
position. There is a possibility that the cab tractor with
the hydraulic clutch could be considered self
adjusting.
Click to expand...

Got it. Yes i have found the 85 and 95 series to very similar if not identical in parts and repair methods. Thank you for the support, Ill add some free play as suggested and report back. Thank you!
 
If it has just the 4 spd forward with hi lo and reverse on the other lever then I would suspect your cluth is in need of adjustment. By removing the pin at either end of the rod from the pedal to the clutch shaft adjust accordingly till you get the correct or about 1-1-14 inches of free play. If it has a TA which is usually a lever on the left side of the hood/dash it probably has a need for adjustment along with the clutch. This will need to be looked up in your owners manual. If it happens to have a shuttle which is usually a lever on the left side of the dash opposite of the throttle lever it could need some pressure or mechanical adjustment. I'm not versed in the shuttle nor the TA version. We have both a 5 and 674's with a regular clutch and no TA. 574 has a loader on it. Both are diesels too.
 
Thanks, I just went out and adjusted it out about a .5 inch. Thats about as far it would allow due to the peddle stop. The peddle is quite a bit higher for sure. I ran it in the pasture a bit and it seemed OK, but its not warmed up. Ill warm it up tomorrow, under a mowing load, and see how it goes and report back. Really appreciate the support.

This tractor does not have a TA or shuttle shift. You You are spot on.

This post was edited by Kdtjlamb on 06/26/2022 at 05:28 pm.
 
The TA and a shuttle shift do not work the same. A shuttle will move the tractor forwards and backwards. The TA will only speed you up or slow you down under load. The TA is to be shifted to reduce load by slowing the tractor at a rate of about 25-30 percent. Shifting it to slow down like coming up to a driveway to turn or stop sign is not recommended use. It will take out the sprag side of it. The Ta is used for getting through hard pulling places like coming over a hill or going from sand to clay. The brakes are designed for slowing down with.
 
How exactly did you adjust it? Did you adjust it per the specifications or did you just turn the turnbuckle a bit and call it good?

The pedal should be all the way up against the stop when your foot is off of it. No droop. If it's not up against the stop, something is wrong. That means the throwout bearing is riding on the pressure plate fingers 100% of the time and it's not designed for that.

There needs to be a set amount of "free play," I think 1-1/4" measured at a certain spot that's detailed in the manual, where the pedal moves with no resistance until you feel it touch the throwout bearing against the pressure plate.
 
I do not know which clutch setup you have. IH went to a zero free
travel clutch way back in the 90's where the only adjustment you
have is clutch pedal height. Pedal never strikes platform or a
stop when in fully engaged position.

As clutch wears the pedal keeps getting higher so you adjust to
lower pedal to a more comfortable position to operate.

These are things you need to know before a diagnosis can be made.
 
(quoted from post at 09:32:15 06/27/22) I do not know which clutch setup you have. IH went to a zero free
travel clutch way back in the 90's where the only adjustment you
have is clutch pedal height. Pedal never strikes platform or a
stop when in fully engaged position.

As clutch wears the pedal keeps getting higher so you adjust to
lower pedal to a more comfortable position to operate.

These are things you need to know before a diagnosis can be made.
Click to expand...

From what I've researched, and how it behaves. I believe it is a zero free travel clutch. There is almost zero free play in the pedal, even when adjusting the clutch pedal height all the way up to where it rests on the stop. Although the full pedal travel is 10 inches or so, it literally is just a light touch at the top of the pedal to disengage the clutch.
 
Hi and welcome to YT.
Re CIH 595, with no Cab and no Power Shift HI/LO switch on the left of the dash and no Shuttle Shift?
Pete 23 is absolutely correct on the 595 clutch, it is zero free travel which means the throughout bearing rests on the fingers of the pressure plate and the bearing spins all the time.
CIH did this by removing the return spring on the clutch pedal.
Again as Pete says as the clutch wears the clutch pedal keeps getting higher and higher until it hits the limit at the top when this happens the clutch will begin to slip as the pressure plate is not being fully released
therefore the clutch pedal adjustment has to be adjusted so there is free travel from the upper limit to the resting height with the clutch engaged.
My brother and I have been through this clutch style on his CIH 495 and just this spring on his CIH 3230 which is a generation newer than your 595.
My brother has 5 of these Doncaster, UK built tractors, 454, 474, 684, 495 and 3230 all without cabs. His 495 was the first to have the no free play clutch arrangement and it only lasted 3 years until the throughout bearing
seized and wrecked the fingers on the pressure plate, CIH mechanic recommended to replace clutch/PP/Bearing with the previous style of clutch by adding the return spring to the clutch pedal, that is what we did and it has lasted
well over 20 years but the loader was removed from it in about 2003 and put on his 3230. The 3230 has 5500 Hrs on it and is a loader tractor that is used almost everyday and this spring all of a sudden it would not stop when the
clutch pedal was depressed to the foot plate. My brother looked through the clutch inspection plate and could not see anything wrong so he adjusted the clutch as much as he could and it would stop with the brakes applied. He
called CIH and other parts suppliers and only CIH had a complete kit with clutch, PP, bearings and only 2 in North America, others had clutch and PP but not throughout bearing. To make a long story short, the problem was one of
the adjustment bolts on the pressure plate fingers had backed out preventing that finger from releasing the pressure plate from the clutch disk. The clutch disk was worn to within 1/16 of the rivets so we changed everything.
The 3230 has an additional fiber spacer that goes between the pressure plate fingers and the throughout bearing preventing the ware on the throughout fingers. This tractor also has the power shift Hi/Lo switch on the left dash
and if yours has that I can explain how it works.
 
(quoted from post at 11:48:41 06/27/22) Hi and welcome to YT.
Re CIH 595, with no Cab and no Power Shift HI/LO switch on the left of the dash and no Shuttle Shift?
Pete 23 is absolutely correct on the 595 clutch, it is zero free travel which means the throughout bearing rests on the fingers of the pressure plate and the bearing spins all the time.
CIH did this by removing the return spring on the clutch pedal.
Again as Pete says as the clutch wears the clutch pedal keeps getting higher and higher until it hits the limit at the top when this happens the clutch will begin to slip as the pressure plate is not being fully released
therefore the clutch pedal adjustment has to be adjusted so there is free travel from the upper limit to the resting height with the clutch engaged.
My brother and I have been through this clutch style on his CIH 495 and just this spring on his CIH 3230 which is a generation newer than your 595.
My brother has 5 of these Doncaster, UK built tractors, 454, 474, 684, 495 and 3230 all without cabs. His 495 was the first to have the no free play clutch arrangement and it only lasted 3 years until the throughout bearing
seized and wrecked the fingers on the pressure plate, CIH mechanic recommended to replace clutch/PP/Bearing with the previous style of clutch by adding the return spring to the clutch pedal, that is what we did and it has lasted
well over 20 years but the loader was removed from it in about 2003 and put on his 3230. The 3230 has 5500 Hrs on it and is a loader tractor that is used almost everyday and this spring all of a sudden it would not stop when the
clutch pedal was depressed to the foot plate. My brother looked through the clutch inspection plate and could not see anything wrong so he adjusted the clutch as much as he could and it would stop with the brakes applied. He
called CIH and other parts suppliers and only CIH had a complete kit with clutch, PP, bearings and only 2 in North America, others had clutch and PP but not throughout bearing. To make a long story short, the problem was one of
the adjustment bolts on the pressure plate fingers had backed out preventing that finger from releasing the pressure plate from the clutch disk. The clutch disk was worn to within 1/16 of the rivets so we changed everything.
The 3230 has an additional fiber spacer that goes between the pressure plate fingers and the throughout bearing preventing the ware on the throughout fingers. This tractor also has the power shift Hi/Lo switch on the left dash
and if yours has that I can explain how it works.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Great explanation and very thorough. Ive adjusted the pedal as far as it will allow. Also, Some new information. Even when the tractor is cold, If I stand on the brakes and release the clutch pedal, the tractor just sits there. Does not stall or buck. Im assuming the clutch is about gone.
 
You are very welcome.
Do you have a CIH Service manual?
How many hours?
Yes, if clutch pedal has 1/2 of free travel to limit and will slip when cold with brakes the clutch pads are probably shot and the springs weak on the PP.

What brand an model of loader is on your 595? My brother's 3230 has an IH 2250 Quick Attack loader so taking the loader boom off was easy.
We were able to take the 3 bolts out of each side of the loader frame on the bell housing mounts and that gave us enough wiggle room to move the engine section forward without removing the front end loader mounts,
there was enough excess hydraulic hose to the loader control valve as well to move the engine forward far enough to replace clutch/PP/Bearings. Also by loosing a couple hydraulic line clamps for the oil cooler there
was enough excess hydraulic hose to move the engine forward, but PS lines, fuel lines, Shut Off cable, throttle linkage, hour meter cable and electrical connections on engine side had to be disconnected. The worst
part on my brother's 3230 was the CIH dealer had installed a re-circulating tank heater and had run the run hose around the back of the engine under the battery box so we had to disconnect and plug the hose, all his
other tractors have the return hose going around the front of the engine next to the water pump. The most difficult bolts are the two on top of the bell housing, you require a 1/2 breaker bar to loosen them but a
1/2 Ratchet head will not fit so use a 3/8 Ratchet. The ones on the side bell housing behind the loader frame are a pain and it may have been quicker removing the complete loader frame. When we did the clutch job on
the 495 we remove the complete loader frame.
 
(quoted from post at 18:15:44 06/27/22) You are very welcome.
Do you have a CIH Service manual?
How many hours?
Yes, if clutch pedal has 1/2 of free travel to limit and will slip when cold with brakes the clutch pads are probably shot and the springs weak on the PP.

What brand an model of loader is on your 595? My brother's 3230 has an IH 2250 Quick Attack loader so taking the loader boom off was easy.
We were able to take the 3 bolts out of each side of the loader frame on the bell housing mounts and that gave us enough wiggle room to move the engine section forward without removing the front end loader mounts,
there was enough excess hydraulic hose to the loader control valve as well to move the engine forward far enough to replace clutch/PP/Bearings. Also by loosing a couple hydraulic line clamps for the oil cooler there
was enough excess hydraulic hose to move the engine forward, but PS lines, fuel lines, Shut Off cable, throttle linkage, hour meter cable and electrical connections on engine side had to be disconnected. The worst
part on my brother's 3230 was the CIH dealer had installed a re-circulating tank heater and had run the run hose around the back of the engine under the battery box so we had to disconnect and plug the hose, all his
other tractors have the return hose going around the front of the engine next to the water pump. The most difficult bolts are the two on top of the bell housing, you require a 1/2 breaker bar to loosen them but a
1/2 Ratchet head will not fit so use a 3/8 Ratchet. The ones on the side bell housing behind the loader frame are a pain and it may have been quicker removing the complete loader frame. When we did the clutch job on
the 495 we remove the complete loader frame.
Click to expand...

Thank for the information. It s a 2200 loader. Not a quick attach. I could just remove the bolts nearest the split point and leave the front bolts in place and see if it can be wiggled apart. However, I have a feeling the whole loader will need to come off. Im actually nervous the weight of the loader would tip the front end forward once the tractor is split.
 
(quoted from post at 07:17:00 07/03/22)
(quoted from post at 18:15:44 06/27/22) You are very welcome.
Do you have a CIH Service manual?
How many hours?
Yes, if clutch pedal has 1/2 of free travel to limit and will slip when cold with brakes the clutch pads are probably shot and the springs weak on the PP.

What brand an model of loader is on your 595? My brother's 3230 has an IH 2250 Quick Attack loader so taking the loader boom off was easy.
We were able to take the 3 bolts out of each side of the loader frame on the bell housing mounts and that gave us enough wiggle room to move the engine section forward without removing the front end loader mounts,
there was enough excess hydraulic hose to the loader control valve as well to move the engine forward far enough to replace clutch/PP/Bearings. Also by loosing a couple hydraulic line clamps for the oil cooler there
was enough excess hydraulic hose to move the engine forward, but PS lines, fuel lines, Shut Off cable, throttle linkage, hour meter cable and electrical connections on engine side had to be disconnected. The worst
part on my brother's 3230 was the CIH dealer had installed a re-circulating tank heater and had run the run hose around the back of the engine under the battery box so we had to disconnect and plug the hose, all his
other tractors have the return hose going around the front of the engine next to the water pump. The most difficult bolts are the two on top of the bell housing, you require a 1/2 breaker bar to loosen them but a
1/2 Ratchet head will not fit so use a 3/8 Ratchet. The ones on the side bell housing behind the loader frame are a pain and it may have been quicker removing the complete loader frame. When we did the clutch job on
the 495 we remove the complete loader frame.
Click to expand...

Thank for the information. It s a 2200 loader. Not a quick attach. I could just remove the bolts nearest the split point and leave the front bolts in place and see if it can be wiggled apart. However, I have a feeling the whole loader will need to come off. Im actually nervous the weight of the loader would tip the front end forward once the tractor is split.
Click to expand...

You will need to remove the 2200 loader and mounting frames. Don't think I'd want to be trying to wiggle dead loader along with rest of the front end. 2200 comes off easy enough, you just need something to hang it from, pull the 4 pins and disconnect the hydraulics. 4 bolts on each loader tower, you'll need a shop crane or similar to handle those.

Sounds like a worn out clutch to me Split and replace. Have a 495 here with a 2200, clutch has been done, pedal does raise automatically as it wears.
 

Hate to bump and old thread. I have a clutch kit on order and am about to begin splitting the tractor. Would anyone have the clutch replacement pages of the CIH service manual to spare?

Thank you.
 
(quoted from post at 13:43:55 09/12/22)
Hate to bump and old thread. I have a clutch kit on order and am about to begin splitting the tractor. Would anyone have the clutch replacement pages of the CIH service manual to spare?

Thank you.
Click to expand...

Most likely the pages simply say, "Take the tractor apart, replace the clutch, and put the tractor back together."

They're written for experienced/trained mechanics...
 
(quoted from post at 08:46:40 09/13/22)
(quoted from post at 13:43:55 09/12/22)
Hate to bump and old thread. I have a clutch kit on order and am about to begin splitting the tractor. Would anyone have the clutch replacement pages of the CIH service manual to spare?

Thank you.
Click to expand...

Most likely the pages simply say, "Take the tractor apart, replace the clutch, and put the tractor back together."

They're written for experienced/trained mechanics...
Click to expand...

Maybe. I doubt it. I don t need the details around actually splitting the tractor or replacing the clutch. I was looking for details around torque specifications etc. I can call case. There is a dealer / repair center About 30 minutes up the road. They always seem helpful.
 
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