Farmall C cooling question

Adam from WI

New User
Hi all, first post here. I just bought a Farmall C (not super). From what I can tell it's a '49 (serial tag missing). This tractor does have a water pump and a temp gauge. Is there anyway to tell if these were factory? Should this engine have a thermostat if it has a water pump? I only ask, because after almost an hour of mowing some thick stuff (6 foot Woods) the temp gauge might make it to the bottom of the "Run" portion of the gauge.
 
That sounds normal, those engines run very cool. Do you have a water
pump? If so I'm not sure about thermostat.
There should be an engine serial number stamped on a flat spot below
number 1 spark plug. It may be hard to see as it has probably been
painted over several times and is hidden behind the throttle linkage.
Dave
 
Very normal. The engineers designed the cooling system to stay in the run range when the tractor is used at full throttle full load. The
thermostat bypass passage it big enough that under 95% of operation the thermostat never opens at all. No understanding of the thermodynamics of
engine temperature (200 or more being good for efficiency and reduced pollution) were applied in those years. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 18:20:59 06/30/22) That sounds normal, those engines run very cool. Do you have a water
pump? If so I'm not sure about thermostat.
There should be an engine serial number stamped on a flat spot below
number 1 spark plug. It may be hard to see as it has probably been
painted over several times and is hidden behind the throttle linkage.
Dave

Yes, it does have a water pump from what I can see. Engine serial is FCM 30233
 
If it has a water pump and will handle a 6 foot mower in thick stuff my guess is it's a super C. We have a C
with a 5 foot Woods mower and it really snorts in thick stuff. But then everyone has a different idea of
what thick stuff is! Are you in the drought area of WI? I have a cousin near Ladysmith and they're very
dry. We are getting plenty of rain in N MN this year, unlike last. The grass/weeds grow more in a week than
they did all last summer!
 

I dunno if you'd call it handling the mower. I'm actually catching some flak currently because this pretty 70 year old tractor can't be used as a Bush Hog.
As far as C vs Super C, that's my guess is that it's a straight up C because of the low hood and straight pedals. I'm in the central part of the state and it is pretty dry, although we got some relief a couple days ago.
 
Your engine number is for a C, not Super C. There was a water pump option for the C. With a water pump, it should have a thermostat.
 
I didn't realize there was a water pump option for a C, ours doesn't have one, and it never overheats.
Your engine must be in pretty good shape! I have a rain flap on the exhaust, and it's obvious how hard
it's working when it gets into tall grass, the flap goes from 1/2 way open to straight up! I like to run
in second gear, but this year I have to use first a lot.
 
I can't think of but one reason you can t pull a brush hog, and that is a
overriding clutch,and any box farm store will have one. BTW they make them to
fit your 1 1/8 pto,and fit the modern 1 3/8 mower.
Or just go to the top of this page and buy one from here.
 
The water pump was added and no thermostat is used and is not
important and your system will not run warm because of the pump and is just the
way those engines run when a pump is added
 
These old IHC tractors had plenty of cooling capacity in them if maintained. It is supposed to be worked like that .It's much better on it than the puttering around with it so it never gets things warmed up in it. Just keep doing as you are. If it does act like it is going to get to warm blow the radiator out and keep the grille cleaned off from debris and you will be fine. Most of those old tracots just drive from the shed to the trailer then to the parking spot at the show and reverse to get back home. Bunch of pretty trailer queens that never get warmed up and load up the cylinders with junk and transmission that fills up with water then they all ask why their tractor is acting like this or that. Go work the bag off it and tell who ever is giving guff to go pound sand.
 
Those little infrared laser thermometers that can be bought over the internet or at harbor freight are quite handy. When one has a concern about a tractor or anything that gets hot, just point the device at
the object and it will give you a reading of the temperature. Just food for thought.
 
There's also two different head gaskets used, no water pump used larger holes for the water passages. The gasket holes were smaller on water pump equipped engines.
That's what I found out years ago when I overhauled my B and installed a water pump from a Super C.
 
(quoted from post at 12:01:12 07/01/22) There's also two different head gaskets used, no water pump used larger holes for the water passages. The gasket holes were smaller on water pump equipped engines.
That's what I found out years ago when I overhauled my B and installed a water pump from a Super C.

I got caught on that one, gasket hole sizes, many years back when I rebuilt my BN. Got it all back together and soon after was getting moisture in the oil.

First thing I thought was I had damaged one of the lower seal on a liner while installing. Dropped pan and filled engine with water and let it set a couple days while checking for drips. Then pulled head and clamped liners down and filled with water to deck surface and again let set for days while watching for signs of leaks.

Finally inspected gasket real close and saw that some of the holes in the gasket hung over the hole in the block or head. After doing a lot of digging in gasket catalogs at work stumbled on to mention of a serial number break for the engines. Ordered the other gasket than the one I had and sure enough that one had the larger holes that did not hang over the passages in the block and head.

Probably over a 1/4 century latter still no signs of coolant in oil! I have retorqued the head every few years but this last time, this spring, could not see any movement while doing that.
 
They started putting C123 engines in the Farmall C at end of the production run 1950s according to Red power article .

The engine block has a block number behind oil filter canister . Should be c123 above the distributor , magneto area .



I suggest you carefully remove the radiator cap and put a thermometer in the radiator to measure the temperature . On my super c I got just
running no load around 120 with a 160 thermostat and with a 180 I got 155 . Now I would like to see what you get with your after mowing .
 
im with Gene ,my 200's an superc temp dont move.run all day,,,Gene your a national treasure......Dewy
 

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