Sediment bowl leaks

I am having problems with the valve on sediment bowls leaking. Bought two new ones for my Farmall 140 and Super A. They both will not shut the gas off. When I get through running a tractor and am going
to store it for a while, I like to turn the gas off and let the engine run until the carburetor is out of gas. These leak just enough gas, that the engine won't die. Next question - where is a good place to
purchase quality sediment bowl assemblys?

The originals were steel with a brass valve stem. The new ones that I have seen are cast zinc. That's what I have in my 41 H and A. I have to be careful with them so as not to over-tighten and strip out the threads.

This website sells fuel bowl assemblies but they look like they are zinc as well. I have my old steel one off the A but it leaks as the brass threads are well worn after 80 years. Maybe I can rebuild it some day.

No matter where you buy from you're going to get the same exact sediment bowl. Nobody makes "quality" ones anymore. Heck I bet nobody's made any in many years. They cranked a million of them out in one shot, stuffed them in containers, sent them over here. We've been buying off that production run ever since.

For practicality you may want to switch to a brass ball valve.

Second on the ball valve idea.I have
them on a couple of my tractors.

Thanks to all for the comments. Too bad the new sediment bowls all seem to be junk. I like the brass ball valve idea. Do you still use the sediment bowl (for the screen) with the brass ball valve? Would
be nice to have the brass valve ahead of the sediment bowl somehow.

A ball valve is not the best idea. No
Place for the sediment to settle. Would need an in-line filter and that is not the best idea for gravity systems. Unless your tank is spotlessly clean inside its something I would not do. So many of these old tractors out there should be able to find a good used one. If I was doing the ball valve thing I would install a T coming out of the ball valve then have the bottom upsized with a nipple and cap to catch some of the fines. I just dont like the idea of 90 degree elbow coming right out of the tank as thats the way I have seen them advertised.dont forget the sediment bowl has a stand pipe on it so the bottom sediment in the tank cant come out. Unless those 90 elbows have a stand pipe biult in I dont know. Other thing is u could solder a piece of copper pipe in the elbow also.

You can put the ball valve between the carb and sediment bowl.Simply cut out a section of fuel line and install ball valve in place.

This is one of those deals where the replacements never matched the quality of original equipment. Once it was replaced by you or someone else, thinking new would have to be better, the better quality one, (the old one) was probably discarded. So, your probably not going to like my answer. Put an original equipment one back on. If yours was thrown in the trash, you'll now have to go to a salvage yard to find one.

I have a farmall A, and have fixed mine.
Take your valve apart. You can do that. Use grinding compound on a string- like old piece of strarting rope
give it a good polish where it seats. Same thing for the point of the valve I used 600 emory paper to make sure it was clean
When you put it together again, Do Not forget the packing string.
It is obvious where it goes. I used a feed bag string liberally waxed with a candle.
It does not leak.
Kris

95 percent of them tractor are running with out the screen. the screen is at the carb inlet. you need something for the solids to settle out. that is why its called a sediment bowl. just a brass valve will give you trouble if as i said your tank is not clean. easy to figure out. and i sad you can still install the bowl.

Go to your CIH Dealer and purchase a new Sediment bowl assembly part no.61782C91 CNH Industrial Parts made in the USA, That is what I did last to the one on my IH 140 Tractor.

I have used a ball valve in combination with a standpipe and screen inside the tank. They are available from this site. This way any water or sediment stays in the tank. Toss the leaky sediment bowl. Just remove ball valve and drain tank once in a while.

I go back to old ones and hand lap with fine clover lapping compounds, then I put blue dykem on taper and read the surface for complete contact. Might be more effort than its worth to ya but it worked for me. 40 bucks for a Chinese knock is more than I can take .

I bought a complete sediment bulb/valve from my Case/IH dealer, said right on the label, Made in CHINA Made me so danged mad I stuffed it on a shelf and forgot about it. Finally the old one on my Super H started leaking enough the tank was dry. Hunted the new one up and installed it, This was about THREE years after I bought it. The new one hasn't leaked even the slightest bit.
That little brass screen in the sediment bowl is really a poor filter. Anything I run much has a MR. GASKET CLEAR in-line glass see-through gas filter, has a Pyrex clear cylinder, diecast chrome ends, filter is a finely perforated NYLON sleeve you see inside the filter, you can see it get dirty. It even filters out WATER from your gasoline! They work fine on gravity flow fuel lines. About $15 each, available in 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 hose line sizes, there is a version with those three sizes of screw-in plastic hose barbs also. The nylon filter is cleanable and replacable.
I had one on my one Cub Cadet that I watched for 2-3 years gradually get more and more water in it and finally one afternoon the engine stalled from lack of gas. I still use the first one I bought about 39 or 40 years ago, bought several since.

Case/ IH. Also, every time you take the bowl off, replace the gasket. If you need to take the bulb off more than yearly, your tank needs to be cleaned out.

Go to Napa and get a 3032 fuel filter which is for 5/16 tubing. Put in a quarter turn valve (plug or ball ) and junk your sediment bowl. This is if you dont mind a not original look. You can get 1/4 turn plug cock valves that fit the 5/16 tubing. I think they are gas valves and not cheap. I only have 2 c-113 engines lett in my collection but doing this has solved a lot of problems.