350 utility. New leak what's going on?

I've had this tractor for about a year but haven't actually run it much while I try to fix the power steering. (More on that progress in another post).

While testing today I had 3 leaks.

1. At the glass bowl where the gas line screws goes into the brass fitting is leaking gas. I don't see a washer, seal or o ring. I don't want to over tighten. Can I use plumber's tape?

2. The steel line that runs to the oil pressure gauge had electrical tape over a pin hole. Not surprising the tape isn't holding. A quick search shows plenty of gauges but no line. Where can I get a replacement. Anything particular I need to be aware of?

3. I notice what I think is/was hydraulic fluid leaking at a steady rate out of this hole under the tractor. It's on the bottom left in front of the foot pedal plate. (See pics) Hoping this is not serious, maybe just a missing plug but it's definitely not good. Please let me know what you think and how I can repair.

Thanks for your help with these items. It's appreciated. Paul

for #1 ... the gas is sealed by the furrel fitting. either tighten it or replace furrel or make complete line.
#2 same deal.
#3 i am not all familiar with the 350 but that dont look good even has water in the oil. tell us,... is there threads in that hole?? plus it cant be leaking like that steady, cause the actual oil level is higher than that.

Leak out hole is probably serious for you. Seal is leaking into T/A clutch compartment. Unless lucky and just seal at front wall is leaking that requires engine be split from center housing the complete center housing will need removed to replace two more seals and you will probably find something else that needs attention. If I remember correct the oil line is 1/8 tubing. Should be able to get it and fittings at a good auto parts store. Gas line seals metal to metal, if tight remove and see what is wrong.

For your fuel line if you cannot get it to seal IH 222-503 available at a dealer is a replacement nut for the line. IH used these special fittings and ferells on there fuel line connections. These seems to be the least of your troubles. In the attached link to a thread in another forum a photo shows a mechanical TA section like your tractor is equipped with. The center compartment is where the dry TA clutch is located. The lines 1, 2 and 3 show where seals are that can allow fluid to leak in the dry compartment. Number 2 line goes to the TA clutch because it has a seal on the internal shaft. Hope this helps.
Link with TA leak info

Thanks for the feedback and link. It's bad news for sure but I quess these things happen with old tractors. For starters, it's this ab an expensive job and two can it be handled by a novice? I understand from reading over the years that I will need to have stands to support the tractor halves. That complication aside is there too much knowledge required to to do this. My experience besides rebuilding the hydraulic pump and steering assembly is basic tune up and maintenance. I'm not afraid of hard work but I don't want to begin something I have no realistic chance of completing. Thanks again. Paul

Thank you all for your replies so far. As I wrote below I'd like to get feedback on the cost involved to split this tractor and fix it myself. I'm a novice at best but don't mins hard work if there's a realistic chance i can complete this job. Are there any special tools required and can it physically be done by one person.
As always if there's any additional thoughts about the problem please let me know that as well. Thanks Paul

You will first want to take plate 19 off shown in the diagram of the first link. I have no idea how much room you have to look in there. The purpose will be to determine if the leak is coming from the front or the back. And considering how much oil has gotten in there it may be nearly an impossible task to know for CERTAIN NONE of the oil is coming from the back seals 1 and 2 in the photo on the Red Power link. It may be wise to purchase a borescope for your phone to help with this you can find decent ones for $20 -$30. Secondly does the TA low side work properly? I think you have gotten to use or drive the tractor at least some. If it is coming from 1 or 2 area, that means a double split and TA disassembly. If you get to that point you will definitely want to check the condition of numbers 6 - 11 to make sure they are serviceable. These are the parts of the one way clutch or sprag that commonly fails causing the low side of the TA to not work. I feel you can probably do this, but it will be a quite involved process. If you let us know what area you are in maybe someone would be able to coach you through the difficult parts of this job.
CNHI 350U Clutch TA case

TA drive section

On Monday I replaced the entire fuel sediment bowl due to it leaking fuel not only from the old rotted cork seal, but also from the shut off handle. If you take your fuel bowl in to N pa, the will be able to match up the bowl seal with a new rubber one. If the rest of the sediment bowl is in poor shape you can get one from N pa for about $40. As for the oil line you can get kits with the ends and the line where you cut the line to size, slide the cap on both ends of the line and then flair the lines. Lastly, that P colored oil is that way because of water contamination. Your going to need to find out where that water is coming from.

Thanks for the reply and the information on the oil pressure line and fuel bowl.

I don't think this tractor has had a fluid change in many years before I bought it . It lived outdoors for years. I'm wondering whether the watery fluid is built up over time. I did change the fluids when i bought it and the transmission/hydraulic oil was a mess. I know it was still running filthy when it stopped draining. I also was unable to own the drain plug at the pto. I'm wondering if that is where this is coming from? My plan was to give it a thorough flush one I determined what other issues it had. I was hoping what I saw leaking was some sort of overflow of water seeping in before I bought it. Thanks. Paul

Thanks for the information. I'm going to follow up as you suggested. The camera sounds like a good inexpensive investment. I plan to take it out tomorrow and run it and see if the ta is working properly. I really never tried it since i bought it. . Ironically, I've got the power steering working well enough to actually use it a bit. I need to stop the oil leaking from the oil pressure line, the carb leak fixed and pr the dash back together so it's at least drivable. Thanks for the help. Paul.

It is very possible that, that is rain water that has leaked in through the top over the years. If you were able to drain the rear end at all, did the oil come out yellowish like that? If the oil came out looking the same as what's draining now then I'd say the front trans seal has given up, and not in a way that a seal reconditioned could even dream of fixing. As for the rear drain plug below the pto shaft, if you have a welder, weld a bead on the top of the cap. Don't worry about the transmission catching fire inside, as the oil will disperse the heat throughout the inside of the case, yes you will get smoke, and when you open the plug you may get some flame as the oil starts to sleep out, but this is easily put out but smothering it and depriving it of oxygen. Do not use water!!! This very well could crack the housing, and the draining oil will help to cool the surrounding metal. After you are done you can simply grind the weld bead off and run a die over the plug to clean the threads. If you don't have access to a welder or don't want to deal with the heat from the weld, most auto parts stores carry cordless 18-20 volt impact wrench. You will have to find a square socket (1I believe) to turn the plug out.