Farmall M Class Project: How to 'cross' bearings and sea

Hi guys,
Thanks for the help with my questions thus far. Aside from the hiccup with the block and head, things are progressing nicely and the kids are doing a great job and are way more interested than I
thought they would be. I am to the point where I need to order parts to keep the project on track. A large part of the parts that are going to need to go into this are bearings and seals. I am going to
try to order everything through a bearing/seal wholesaler. I have had good luck with Accurate bearing out of Chicago. I'm guessing if I order through a dealership, prices will be crazy. I restored a John
Deere B in high school and bought everything from John Deere because I didn't know better. After that experience, I came to the conclusion that the cardboard john deere uses for their packaging must be
extremely valuable. Anyway, how do I 'cross' bearings from what is on the tractor to something more modern? I've been following Squatch253's build on YouTube, and he has bearing and seal numbers that he
crossed from the OEM parts. I've written down the parts numbers so far, but not sure if I have the time to watch every video to get a snippet of the parts numbers he has. I've tried commenting on his
videos to try to reach out to him, but I haven't had any luck.
Also, a lot of the seals on this machine are doubled up. From what I gather, Farmall had extra wide seals when this came from the factory but those aren't made anymore. So, people are doubling up
standard seals. People say you need to grease up one of them as it will see no lubrication. Is this what you all do? My next post will be how to determine if a sealing surface is adequate or if it needs
attention because there are some spots that I think might need a little weld/machining to bring them back. Thanks guys!!
Andy

This fine website sells bearings, they are good and reasonable. Buying them here supports this free forum!! You must know the journal size (or undersize marked on the bearings removed (or both) to determine which to purchase, and whether to have the crank resurfaced. The seal issue can be solved by double seals as your kids found. If the double seals ride in grooves deep enough to feel with your fingernail, the shaft may need a Speedy Sleeve to reestablish a smooth sealing surface, not welded and ground. Greasing between the seals is manditory for the life of the outer seal. Jim

I would price both places. I got some bolts for the chisel plow teeth this summer and the dealer was the cheapest place to get them. This was a Deere dealer. Dealers are not always the highest priced place on some things.

Simply put, you "cross" bearings and seals by taking the OEM part numbers to the bearing/seal place, and saying, "Good day kind sir/madam, I am in need of these following seals and bearings." Then show them your list. They have a computer that they will type in the seal and bearing part numbers, come up with a cross for something they carry, determine stock status, and either sell it to you that same day, or order them for you if not in stock.

Many bearings and seals can be crossed directly at the NAPA site as well, by simply typing in the OEM part number in the search.

http://skfpartsinfo.com/

Click on the "interchange" tab and enter your bearing or seal number.

I get a lot of quality replacement Farmall ball bearings off eBay successfully and saved a lot of money doing .

Here is a Timken cross reference.
Poke here

What wore out said. Not all will cross over but most will. I usually do not double up on the seals. Adjust the new seal in the bore to a smooth surface on the shaft.
Dennis

check here first
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