Farmall B questions

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Just picked this up. Tractor data is
confusing on serial number. Any idea?
Motor is stuck, ran a scope in plug
holes, water in 2 cylinders and visible
rust in them too. Ugly. Clutch stuck on
it a few years ago and it's been sitting
outside. I know of an A for sale ,
cheap, ugly,but runs good. And good
clutch. Straight swap??
cvphoto100470.jpg


cvphoto100471.jpg

Anyone ever seen a 3 point hitch like
this?? It's electric. Love to figure it
out! Well made, but it's odd.
 

I'm no expert as only Farmall I have worked on is my BN but I'm thinking the engine from the A would fit right in or maybe use the front end off the A on the B? I think I have seen pictures of that being done.

The hydraulics look like they run of a starter motor? Might not be too hard to figure out.
 
I'm pretty sure a C113 A engine can be used. Look at your serial number and then the block number on the flat spot on the upper right corner between the distributor and governor. If the two numbers are fairly close it should be the original engine.
 
A and B engines are the same and will bolt right up to each other. As for the hyds good chance it uses the common electric hyd units like used on snow plow trucks etc. Yes they look like starter motors but there not really starter motors as such
 
113 or 123 cid engines are usable. 123 with water pump needs a bit of plumbing to hook up the radiator. 113 can be 123 if thin sleeves are installed. An engine with a live hydraulic pump would be a strong plus. Some 113 and most 123 have the mount for live pump under the governor. The electric hydraulic system is common to snow plow lift and angle use. a switch controls the motor and then a lever directs flow. Intermittent motor running. The tractor may have an alternator and 12v system to drive the hydraulics If so that is good. They are 3 times the effective hp of a cub! Jim
 
pic of s/n plate looks like 203538. if it is, tractor is a 1947, built in Louisville and last year of the B's. A's, B's and BN's use the same s/n listings. This also assumes the seat frame didn't come from a different tractor. As mentioned, the engine # should be close if original.
Have fun
Dennis

This post was edited by Dennis K (WA) on 09/08/2021 at 07:16 pm.
 
The stuck engine is not a real big deal and fixing it would likely be less expensive and better than a used engine (that may not improve your situation). Coming up with a used engine is sort of a crap shoot. The engine overhaul is in-frame. Pull the head, pull the oil pan and remove and drive out the pistons. Replace the pistons, rings, rods, rod bearings, and sleeves. Check the crank for issues and consider replacing the crank main bearings. If the crank does not require turning your are ready to put it back together. Go ahead and do a valve job while you got it down. I did that with my 200 (I actually paid a Delta Air Lines mechanic to do the engine rebuild) and it is a lot like getting a brand new tractor. Remember that on a B the tractor serial number matches the motor number unless someone has replaced the block. The tractor will be worth more if the block is original or that would be my opinion. Fixing the clutch is the same no mater what you do with the engine.
 
LMack.... only issue I see is that the head bolts behind the manifold are corroded so badly the heads are about gone. If I had a good welder I could weld a nut on them to remove. All I have is a small flux core wire welder. We were going to pull the head, but don't know what to do with the bolts.......??
 
(quoted from post at 13:20:30 09/11/21) LMack.... only issue I see is that the head bolts behind the manifold are corroded so badly the heads are about gone. If I had a good welder I could weld a nut on them to remove. All I have is a small flux core wire welder. We were going to pull the head, but don't know what to do with the bolts.......??

Grind or cut the head off with a cut off wheel. Take off manifold and remove the stud with vice grips,,, or a stud remover/installer,,,
 
If you can't weld nuts on and have them stay to remove the bolts then grind the heads off and pull the head then use vise grips or a pipe wrench to remove them
 
Rusted bolts are fixable and you see what Old has suggested. If you send the head out to a shop for a valve job they will remove the bolts for you. If you work on old equipment long enough you will need to get good at removing headless bolts.
 

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