Farmall M clutch issues

Brockpend

Member
Honestly, Im 15 and new to farmalls. I have an M with a clutch
pedal that wont push in, it feels locked. What could be the
problem and what can be done to fix it? Thx
 
I agree with rustred, I would have to guess this is not a running tractor. We need more info, like does it run, has it sat outside for a while. Most of those old tractors due to extensive field testing developed some play on the shaft the clutch pedal pivots on. So, the pedal if loose on its pivot shaft usually will move side to side. If it does not and appears to be froze or rusted to that shaft you will need to break that loose. Penetrating oil and hammering at the outside of the pivot connection. If the front shaft that the rod going forward from the clutch pedal seems to be locked most likely the throw out bearing sleeve no. 23 is froze or rusted to the clutch release sleeve carrier bracket no. 15. This is most likely due to a large rodent nest inside the housing. If your tractor has a lift-all hydraulic pump as most of them did trying to free up rusted and corroded items for the clutch inside the housing will be far more difficult. Email me I will send you a link to an early edition repair manual for your tractor. Best of luck!
CNHI Farmall M Clutch connections diagram
 
Well heres what I can tell you. Its a 48 with a mounted corn picker thats been sitting in a barn for over 20 years. It feels like the pedal should move freely, it has a little play. When I try to push it in, it goes about half an inch then locks, I think its an internal problem. Also, if that clutch is locked, my M&W hand clutch should still work right?
 
Don't depend on the hand clutch. Probably stuck from sitting. Guess you could pull tractor in gear with it disengaged to see if the wheels roll or slide. If mice built a nest in clutch housing it could give you trouble. If you could get the pin out of clutch rod to see if pedal works. It would give you a idea if internal or external. If clutch pedal is rusted to shaft the inside brake pedal will move with it.
 
The M&W clutch tends to rust up long before the main clutch. The one on my uncle's M was seized for as long as I can remember.

However, the M&W clutch does not allow you to shift. It only breaks the differential so the tractor doesn't move. You still need the main clutch to shift it while it is running.

You can fully service the clutch on an M from underneath, without needing to split the tractor. The belly pump unit will need to be removed but once that is out of there you can work in the cavity.
 

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