300 U clutch questions

56Utility

Member
UPDATED below!
Hi,
I finally split my 300 U because I have had IPTO problems recently. I noticed the clutch input shaft pilot is worn so I want to change it. I removed the IPTO drive shaft bearing cage but the clutch shaft will not come out. It looks like the splines at the back of the clutch shaft are rusted into the coupler ahead of the TA. The book says "pull the engine clutch shaft forward out of the clutch housing". Has anyone had to remove a stuck clutch shaft? Should I soak the coupler with Kroil and use a slide hammer? I have read all the recent posts about 300 U splits so I will try not to ask any duplicate questions.
Thanks, Tim

This post was edited by 56Utility on 09/14/2021 at 10:16 am.
 
Tapping in with an aluminum or brass buffer between the hammer and shaft, and slide hammer out should do it. Use the penetrating
oil, but stay off of the TA clutch. Heat is not good for seals. Change the pilot bearing in the crankshaft as well. Jim
 
Thanks, I will try that.
After splitting the tractor I found someone had installed a Hy Capacity clutch which still looks very good. Should I replace the clutch because of the wear in the clutch shaft pilot diameter?
 
From the post not sure if the PTO drive shaft and gear won't come out or tractor clutch shaft won't come off the
rear splines. PTO drive needs out to get clutch shaft out. Usually splines are worn enough on one end or other to
slide off. If it comes off the front splines and leaves the coupling on the t/a shaft, may need to remove t/a clutch
and pressure plate and pry off unless you can start getting it to work loose by pecking on it. 3/8 coarse thread will
screw in clutch shaft. Good slide set up with screw deep in threads should bring shaft out and PTO drive shaft also.
Get a new bearing for flywheel and see how good it fits clutch shaft if that is the worn place you are asking about.
If top housing plate is off don't try prying the pto shaft out from back unless real careful because the gear teeth
can chip off the corners. Clearance between clutch shaft and back of pto shaft is not much. Some were to close and
resulted in problems that lead to some machining changes.
 
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Only if the teeth that drive the PTO are bad in the cover and shaft. Quite often both the tubular shaft, and PP splines are equally bad to
mediocre. A replacement clutch pressure plate such as your Hycapacity might be just fine, but check both. Jim
 
The PTO splines look very good. The ring gear on the flywheel is somewhat chewed up. I have never changed a ring gear. Is it as simple as heating it and removing it?
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That one is good for another 50 years. Just heat it up and flip it over so the bad side faces forward. Jim
 
Strange the posts with pictures didn't show up at my end when I replied earlier. Clutch shaft looks to need replaced
. Pilot bearing probably went dry and bearing spun the inner race on shaft.
 
(quoted from post at 12:48:55 09/09/21) Strange the posts with pictures didn't show up at my end when I replied earlier. Clutch shaft looks to need replaced
. Pilot bearing probably went dry and bearing spun the inner race on shaft.

Yup that's what he's trying to do. Except he can't get the clutch shaft out of the TA input.

I can't remember how the shaft came out of Dads 400, but I don't think there was any special tricks.
 
I finally was able to remove the stuck and rusted clutch input shaft after soaking it with Kroil for 5 days! I must have hit it with the slide hammer over 50 times. The TA clutch disc has chunks missing like it was rusted to the pressure plate. And the TA input splines are rusted and worn. I do not know how old the TA is but judging by the rust it may be very old. Should i replace the TA since I am in this far? From what I have read it looks like I would have to remove the TA clutch carrier nut, do a rear split and remove 4 bolts and the TA is out of the tractor. Do all the rebuilt TAs come with the heavy duty sprag clutch? I also will be replacing the TA clutch assembly.
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