Old, what about your carb

34Case

Member
I paid a guy to work on 2 carbs. He did good on the B, But not the H.. Apparently he cant stop gas that drips from the fuel bowl down to the carb bowl, so that when I start it, the load of gas floods the plugs and the engine runs like heck. So, I pull the rubber line off the inline filter to stop that. BUT, I have to adjust the flow of gas at the fuel bowl, and thats impossible. I had the guy come out day for yesterday, and he got it running pretty good after the plugs got hot enough, and so I brush hogged with a 6ft BH for an hour which was aroun d 1 00 and I quit. I went back at it around 7 00, and I guess I had the flow adjusted differently and it ran like _rap, so, What do you want for the carb you say your carrying around? Ive got a 48 H, and my dad had a 48 H in around 55. He never had to shut the gas off at the bowl. Do you think id have to with yours due to its age? thanks.
 
Dont know his experience with carbs but it sure appears you need a new needle and seat or the float is heavy , meaning there is gas in it. Dont need to replace the whole carb just fix the problem with it.
 

A carburetor for a Farmall H is not hard to rebuild and make right. Easier in my opinion than the carburetor for the Farmall B.
 
Sounds like an idee. Ill do that. Thanks. Im thinking of setting the flow out of the tank low, then drive it. IF I get it right, NOT to shut it off at the tank, but put a phillips screwdrivver in the outlet of the inline filter to stop the flow, and then when I want to use the H just take it out, reconnect to carb and go. Ill order the parts today, but I need to try to get a field brushhogged now
 
Adjusting the flow using the tank valve is not going to stop flooding and starting issues. Fixing the float/needle/seat issue will do that, but it is the rebuilder that needs to fix it, not you. All Farmalls need to be shut off at the tank as a standard operator responsibility when walking away from the tractor. Gravity fuel is like having a fuel pump run all the time. Jim
 
That is no way to set a carb by regulating the fuel flow at the shut off. If this guy came out and did this to set your carb mixture he is no carb man. You adjust the carb power circuit with the load needle coming out of the bottom of the carb. Down and dirty method is to open the throttle wide open. Turn the load needle in until then engine looses speed and runs a little uneven. Back it out a half turn. Bring engine to idle then quickly pull the throttle wide open again, if the engine stumbles or hesitates open the needle a half turn and repeat opening the throttle. Keep at this until you have it turned open enough that the engine comes up to speed without hesitation. This is where you will run it. You can then set your idle jet for the highest and smoothest idle. The main jet adjustment method does count on the ignition timing being set relatively close to spec as well.
 
I got the float, but cant find the needle and seat. Steiner or Saeli dont have them. Dad had a 48 H same as mine, diffwerent tractors, same model and year. He got his around 55. It came, as far as I know with the valve to the fuel bowl open , and I DO KNOW, that he never shut it off at the fuel bowl for the several years he had it
 
problem is as advise given. i always find the problem first them worry about the parts. never know it can be as simple as a piece of rust that got in there. before installing fuel line to carb its a very good thing to flush the line just by running a shot of gas through it and this also confirms a good gas flow to carb. this sitting there with pint jars catching gas is yes if you dont know what the flow should be. when you open the sediment bowl valve gas has to be running out like you drank 6 beer. any carb i do on these tractors i always start at sediment bowl. while carb is soaking in cleaner you go about cleaning sediment bowl if bowl is stained it goes in the cleaner also. , replace gasket and good idea to blow line out with air. you remove all possibility of ruining you carb job. it must be clean clean. these are a very simple carb. want to test your wits work on a holley 4v carb. ooh and pretty hard to set the flow out of the tank as that is the floats job.
 
i would remove the needle and have a look at it, the metal ones were prone to leaking once worn. the rubber tip ones are better. you can tell just by looking at them what will give you problems, at least i can. nothing saying that the fuel to carb has to be closed each time . if tractor is to sit for a length of time then its good insurance. its the needle and seat that does the closing of gas into carb. you can even check them by hooking a fuel line to top half and putting very slight upward pressure on the float and should be no gas drips.
 
(quoted from post at 10:51:41 09/01/21) with air. you remove all possibility of ruining you carb job. it must be clean clean. these are a very simple carb. want to test your wits work on a holley 4v carb. ooh and pretty hard to set the flow out of the tank as that is the floats job.

Try as I might I could never get a Carter ThermoQuad right. Did anyone? I just replaced mine with a Carter AFB: now pretty much an Edlebrock

This post was edited by AlinMO on 09/01/2021 at 11:53 am.
 
As to your last I did that once, and I have to admit, it didnt leak. I even worked the float up and down. Now, the needle would hang up for a second before dropping after I lowered the float, but it always dropped, and I didnt see any leakage, but then I didnt hold it very long at all to see if it would start to drip. Also I had on very little gas flow.
 
the rubber tip ones tend to be sticky. but as long as they open. plus keep the valve wide open to give it hydrosatic pressure to push on the needle. on metal ones you can actually see the wear mark on the needle. no wear mark just reuse it.
 
(quoted from post at 10:49:04 09/01/21) I got the float, but cant find the needle and seat. Steiner or Saeli dont have them. Dad had a 48 H same as mine, diffwerent tractors, same model and year. He got his around 55. It came, as far as I know with the valve to the fuel bowl open , and I DO KNOW, that he never shut it off at the fuel bowl for the several years he had it

Seems many have great reports on Mcdonald Carburetor https://www.mcdonaldcarb.com/default.asp

A lot of people do not close their shut off valves, then one day they come out and find $50 of fuel on the ground. Only takes one spec of dirt for the needle valve to fail.
 
The carb kits I buy have the needle and seat in them. I buy the Walker brand kits from O'Reilly's auto parts store and the cost is around $25
 
(quoted from post at 12:47:07 09/01/21) i have did quite a few of those also. i find the simpler than a holly.
Rustred, you have to be good! Most people I knew wouldn't even look at a Thermoquad.
 
did not mind them at all. only thing weird was a chrysler coming into our GM dealer for a tune up.
 
I called NAPA about the set and needle, and they said to bring the carb down, so will do that tomorrow
 
I sent you an e-mail. I can get you a part number for the Walker brand kit O'Reilly's sell and they always have a needle and seat in the kit. I'd almost bet I have a couple needles and seat on hand
 
tHANKS PARD, aND IF THEY DONT HAVE WHAT i NEED, ILL BE HITTING u UP. oUTA COURISITY, YOU MIGHT GO HEAD AND TELL ME WHAT YOU WANT FOR YOUR CARB. Always good to know what my options are.
 
I saw another one of your post that said you worked in MO. so are you in MO. like I am
 
I'll try and get the Walker brand kit number for you tomorrow. Not able to do so over the phone so will take the carb I have to town tomorrow and get he info for you
 
Do you have a Tractor Supply ( TSC ) near you. They carry a carb kit for the Farmall H SKU: 23681399. It is definitely less than 42 dollars and has gaskets, needle / seat and throttle shaft.
 
O'Reilly's kit is around $20-25 and if you have a local O'Reilly's you pick it up the day you order it
 
I went to O'Reilly's this morning to get the info on the carb kit. Walker brand kit is part number 778-605. That kit has all the gaskets you need plus the needle and seat and cost is around $25
 
Got bits and pieces
I give Morgan McDonald a try , hes a good Christian fellow with a lot ot knowledge and the parts
McDonald https://www.mcdonaldcarb.com/
 
Old, I can get kits easy. I just hate paying over $50 for a full kit when all I need is the needle and seat. Ive ordered a new foat for it.
 
Guess you didn't see my post for the kits I use. $20-25 for the kit and it has the needle and seat O'Reilly's auto part store have them Walker brand 778-605!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
(quoted from post at 21:34:59 09/03/21) Old, I can get kits easy. I just hate paying over $50 for a full kit when all I need is the needle and seat. I've ordered a new float for it.


This kit from TSC is less than $30. You made not need all the parts for this problem but put the extra parts in a bin for another project.
The screws and round gaskets will fit other carbs.
mvphoto81294.jpg
 

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