Shop Class: Farmall M

Shopteacher

New User
Hi guys, thanks for all of the questions and help so far. The
students have had a pretty good time so far tearing everything
apart. They have done a very good job of bagging and tagging
all of the parts and fasteners. We are getting ready to split the
tractor tomorrow and I have a few general questions, and a few
specific questions.
I am working with some different instructors at our community
college and one of the Diesel instructors had a Farmall M service
manual that he sent to me via email. Is this manual similar to an
I&T manual? I didnt think it was as helpful as other manuals
that I have seen. It was a PDF from case international. I feel like
the INT manual walks you through step-by-step with a lot of
pictures.
We opened up the rear end cover this morning to start
disassembling the insides. We never got a chance to drive this
tractor while it was running, but we ran into some issues upon
inspecting. I dont know specific names for some of these parts,
so bear with me. But the brake drum assemblies are super
sloppy. I mean, tons of play. I cant imagine this is normal. The
seals at this shaft are bad as there is rear end oil in the brake
cover. What is the trick to getting the brake shafts off? This is
the same shaft that the large pinion gear is on. The manual, like
I said before, doesnt really talk through a step by step on how to
do that. Any tips you guys have would be much appreciated!!
Andy


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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKLWQ1Hkkq
Farmall brakes
Will help
Also pat perfect produce does on on h YouTube
Best I can say save your class a lot of time .
 
Since the inside end of bull pinion gear and shaft that brake drum is on is located in the differential gears there will be some play. But not uncommon for bearing on shaft to be failing. Looks like the brake drums may be keyed to shaft type and may need a puller. If spline type drums and shafts they will slide off most times. To remove bull pinion shafts the rear axles need out of the bull gears and bull gears moved enough to let differential carrier and pinion housing to get by them after bolts are removed behind the drums. If you don't find a problem with differential carrier bearings or differential keep track of shims between bull pinion housings and transmission case. Also shims at rear of main shaft or bevel gear pinion shaft. Good idea to check bevel or ring gear lash with a dial indicator before removing and parts. With top of you can slide two gear speeds in mesh then since they will be plenty of help put a rag and pipe wrench on top shaft and hold all play out of gears in mesh so shaft doesn't move, then see what dial reading is when ring gear is moved back and forth. Don't put enough pressure with wrench to hurt shaft, or use other ways to hold steady. Unless reading is way off you want the gears back the same for less noise.
 
Dont force anything. They come apart fairly easy, but it must be done in the correct order. Its easy to break those things.

Search for Kenny kizzle and squatch253 on YouTube. Kenny tore a Farmall H all the way apart (very similar to an M) and restored it and learned several hard lessons along the way.
Squatch and his dad did a beautiful restoration on a super M. Tractor came all the way apart and back together fixing every little thing back to factory fresh along the way. He explains things like an experienced teacher. Highly recommended for you and your students to watch his videos just before you take on the relevant potion of the project.

This post was edited by 3LFarms on 08/31/2021 at 06:35 pm.
 
Oh, also have the kids measure the backlash on the ring and pinion before taking it apart. You want them to go back together the same way they came apart, even if the backlash is a little bit out of spec, otherwise they will growl like like a mad dog.
 
Im going through this now .. The bull gears need to come off before you can remove the differential housing come off. I removed the axles just enough to remove the the bull gears. The diff housing have threaded hole to help remove them , do this slowly do not force them. make sure you keep track of all the shims behind them. good luck
 
The IH ..Blue Ribbon..manual in the top link should be the one distributed for use by IH service techs. That one should be about as good as they get. I see YT carries another manual that covers the transmission and final drives. I have no idea if that manual would be more comprehensive for the gear train then the Blue Ribbon manual. Here is one thing I would recommend. On the bull pinions and gears, look at the wear on the faces of the teeth on the side in contact when the tractor is moving forward. If it looks like quite a bit more wear is showing up on the forward drive side when you put it back together swap them side to side. After this forward motion will apply force to the side of the teeth that was previously used only when the tractor was used in reverse. Both sides use the same part numbers so it makes no difference for assembly. Does the manual you have show the Farmall version on steel wheels on page 54 as a cut away with boxes giving details and specs with arrows over to the items covered? That is what the very old version I have as a PDF shows. It covers The M, MV, O6, W6, TD6 crawler and power unit versions.
IH Blue Ribbon Manual

YT trans manual offering
 

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