464 Gas Engine Stalling

First time poster here. I have read through many topics here concerning some of the same issues Ive had, and its helped me in the past so Ive decided to give it a try and see if someone has any idea what may be happening. Obviously I have an IH 464 with a gasoline engine. I believe its a 1973 model or so. The engine was rebuilt before I bought so I dont know how many hours it actually has. Ive recently rebuilt the carb because of some issues I had with it sputtering and dying out on me. Now I can get it to start after messing with the choke some but as soon as it gets to 1700 RPMS or when I engage the PTO for the bushhog it dies and wont start. After it sits for an hour or so it will start again and Im able to baby it back to the house from the field. Ive got good fuel flow to the carb. I dont think its flooding because its seems to me its not getting enough fuel to handle a load, but then again I do smell fuel like it might be getting too much fuel and choking it down. It idles rough when it first starts before smoothing out after I mess with the choke some and I can baby the throttle and get it to 1700 rpms then it dies like I said earlier or when I engage the PTO. I have an in line fuel filter and it is basically full of fuel except a little air bubble at the top. I can put the fuel hose off feeding the in line filter and theres a steady stream of fuel so that lets me know its got good flow. I check the float while rebuilding the carb and theres no pin hole or anything. Any help is greatly appreciated. By the way Im no super mechanic at all but I can make do if yall have any suggestions of stuff for me to try. Thanks in advance.

BB

Well lets start with a fresh tune up , i myself i prefer the A C C 86 plug , A new set of points and cond. , Next up is get rid of the inline filter , BUT make sure the fine screen is in the sediment bowl , NOT sure what carb is on your tractor as i have never had one of them thru the shop or been on a service call to one . and it is to late to go out to the truck and dig in my books . BUT here i am thinking that (1) you still have and issue with the carb as to a plugged passage , (2) you do not have the main fuel screw turned out far enough as with MOST you want to be four and one half to FIVE turns off the seat , ideal adjustment is a little tricky as you want to adjust the ideal bleed screew for the beast ideal you can get and at the same time back off the curb ideal screw for the lowest RPM and it stays running and this is usually around 450 to 600 RPM on a warn engine . Next up put a timing light on it and set the ing timing at what ever the book says and usually on a I H/Farmall you set ing. timing at wide open throttle for full advance . Next on the list is how good are the cap rotor and wires . Next up on the list is YOUR GAS , the pump gas of today is NOT the same gas that was run in them when new . Step up in grade . Also check your manifold bolts to make sure they are tight and that you have no leakage . Install a new coil . If i was working on it i would also run the valves . I would also check and see if it had a wire off the R terminal of the starter going up to the coil or bypassen the resistor if it has one here as that gives a hot shot of juice to the coil for start . Just some food for thought .

Thanks for the reply even though it was late when I posted. I havent done hardly any thing you suggested. I dont have the time or money to do them all at once. Im going to do my best to go one by one in the things you said and try to get them done. Thanks again for your reply.

The fuel filter you have in place can cause as much grief as all other issues. Those plastic filters are not designed for gravity based fuel systems
and plug up enough to restrict fuel without being visibly contaminated. NAPA has filters designed for gravity based systems and they work. Analysis
of operational problems is first. The Vet's tuneup is good to do after you confront the actual problem. The carb has (IIRC) a drain plug in the
bottom of the bowl. Using a clean open topped can, remove the plug and try to fill the can. It will come out fast at first, then slower. Time of the
test should be no less than one minute, or if it fills a half liter or pint. If not, and it gets to a very small trickle, there are restrictions.
There is a screen in the line where the steel line attaches to the carb, and the tank outlet can also be plugged. Assess first tune later. Jim

I have seen points wear the rubbing block until the gap was almost closed cause your condition. Don't wear out the carb fixing it until you are sure you have good fire when it quit. Weak spark is caused by many things.

Yesterday I did pull the drain plug on the carb and held a coffee can under it and fuel ran out at a pretty good rate. It did slow down a little but was still coming out good. Now it was a big coffee can and I didnt time it. So maybe I need to do that to make sure its enough. The line going to the carb is where my in line filter is so I didnt know there was a screen there. Ill check the line for one. Also are you talking about a possible clog at the drain cock on the left side of the tank? Thanks for the reply

I understand about continuing to take the carb off because I was sure going to take it off again which would make the 4th time.. Ill check the spark today. I was caught up on it being a fuel problem and didnt think of that. Thanks for the reply

The screen in the line is small, and between the fitting screwed into the carb and the fitting that screws into that. They plug regularly in systems
that have had rust in them. Tiny rust flakes also invisibly plug the clear in line filters. Timing the gas flow and watching for reduced flow are
important. The worst thing to do is fix everything to solve a problem that is not identified. That effort can introduce faults that were not there to
begin with and now cause dramatic actual analysis. Jim

Ok I gotcha on where that filter is. Ill go check that. Its only 108 heat index in Mississippi today so Im taking a break right now and then Ill check it...

My 574 [same setup I believe] was doing something similar last winter - The brass fitting above the
glass fuel bowl had become plugged with a stringy material, maybe dead bees? Not sure what it was.
Definitely not rust. When I finally got that cleaned out, it hasn't skipped a beat. Had to drain
the tank to get it all apart. That gasoline on your hands is some cold in January in Ct.

I you talking about the sediment bowl? I only have drain cocks at my sediment bowl, but that doesnt mean one of them isnt clogged. Ill check

So far today I have checked for that small screen going to carb and mine doesnt have one in that fitting. I adjusted the idle screw a little to make sure I was around 600 rpms at idle. Today its letting me get to 2000 rpms without cutting out and dying. I didnt try to go any further really, because theres no need to. I was able to engage the PTO without it dying. I babied it to about 1500 rpms and started bushhogging to check it. As soon as it got in a little bind like taller grass or going up a hill it died and wont start back up. It seemed to have gotten better overnight for no apparent reason. Im clueless now. Evidently something I did that wasnt working yesterday made it a little better today. Regardless its still broke down in the field and evidently I havent fixed the problem yet. Gonna check the spark if I can get it back to a shade tree..

Take that inline filter out. It can plug so ou cannot see the problem. If fuel comes out of the sediment bowl (when the
tank valve is fully open) and makes more than a pint a minute, good. Junk in the fuel tank can move around and plug the
outlet into the sediment bowl intermittently. Making a person look in the wrong place. Jim

At the sediment bowl I have a very good flow. Well within the specs you asked. Im taking the in line filter off now. If that fixes it Ill just do away with it or get one of those the other guy was talking about thats made for the gravity fed fuel systems..

Just a thought - take a flashlight and remove the gas cap and take a look around in the tank. I had similar problems with my 2424 years ago and turned out I had a chunk of wood or golden rod or something in the tank that would would work its way down to the outlet and impede the flow. Once I got that out, it ran fine.

Tim

Im up for trying anything. Thanks for the reply

Could the battery have anything to do with it? Its definitely not brand new but it was fully charged. I know it has a mechanical fuel pump but it also has the fuel shut off solenoid on it. Maybe its not getting enough juice to operate correctly? Heck I dont know Im just guessing at this point. I took the in line filter off and it still dies on me

Did you say you replaced the coil? If not, it is possible that the coil is failing. If it is very hot, way to hot to touch
for long, that is an indication of its failure. Testing the spark when it quits is one of the primary tests. a used
sparkplug put in any plug wire pulled from a plug in the tractor held so the threads are against the block watching for spark
at the electrofes will tell that story. Jim

I forgot to do the coils... Ill do that tomorrow.. Thanks for reminding me...

only one coil, and to do the heat test, it must be operated until it stalls. Maybe 15 min. The coil should throw a 1/4 inch solid blue spark from the
plug to ground if held away some. Jim