International hydro 100?

Going to be purchasing an international hydro 100. Its been sitting for 5 years. Can anyone tell my what battery, filters #s etc. I might need? Oils ,Also suggestions. Thank you.

To answer your question the most important detail I would
like to know is has it been in a shed or out in the weather?

(quoted from post at 09:13:32 05/07/21) To answer your question the most important detail I would
like to know is has it been in a shed or out in the weather?

Click to expand...

Out In the weather!

I WOULD NOT start it until the injection pump is looked at FIRST!! If the fuel control unit is stuck, engine either will not start, or RUN AWAY when it does start and
throw parts through the engine block. I repair lots of injection pumps with stuck internal parts from setting with stale fuel inside that have set for less time than
that..

So the number one issue you will be dealing with is if water
came in the exhaust some way and has gotten in the
engine. First thing to do is loosen the oil pan drain plug and
turn it loose until it starts to drip. You are looking to see if
there is water below the oil in the pan. If you get much
more then a couple tablespoons of water you are very
likely looking at a stuck engine. Then I would suggest
hooking up to the tractor with jumper cables, you will need
some quality cables to do this, not any of those nickel 98
jobs that you get from a discount store. This will lessen the
the power of the starter so it will not damage anything if
there is an amount of water in one of the cylinders and by
chance it is free enough to turn. And when doing this initial check make sure the throttle is all the way to the left. This is the kill position and shuts of injection fuel output. Unless the oil looks
disgustingly terrible I would just run what is in it. The filter
on those set with the screw on part down so if you pull
them off any oil that is held in them would have to be
pumped back in the new ones before oil pressure would
come up. I personally would want that to happen as quickly
as possible on an engine that has set 5years. That tractor
uses some rather expensive batteries they are 2 number 3EH
6 volt in a series to make 12. So when making the
connections with the jumper cables you need to find the
battery cable that goes to the starter for your positive and
hook the other to the tractor frame. Once you know the engine is free I personally would take
the battery out of a vehicle and mount it on the side
temporarily until you know the thing is a runner. I will attach
a picture of a temporary board you can make up to set the
battery on. The ratchet straps just wrap around a utility
screw would run up to attach to something, maybe
completely over the hood an hook under the edge on the
opposite side. The board will set on the battery narrow
battery tray..box on there just shows where the battery
would set. Maybe just bungees would do the trick. Also
once you get to the point you know the engine will turn
check for water in all the drain plugs for the transmission
and rear end. Maybe before we go any farther we will see
what else has been said or if you have questions.

Easiest thing to do is sidle up to the parts counter at your nearest CaseIH dealer, and say, "Excuse me kind parts counter person, I am in need of any and all filters for an International Hydro 100." They will say, "Certainly sir! Please wait here I shall return in a few minutes with your filters."

Oil filters, fuel filters, water filter (if equipped) and hydro filter. They will know what you need.

Engine oil, any good quality diesel oil. The CaseIH dealership can recommend something for you or you can use your favorite.

Hydraulic oil, ONLY ONLY ONLY genuine CaseIH Hytran or New Holland Mastertran (same stuff, different color pail). Unlike an old Farmall 400 where there are no sensitive components or exotic materials that may be sensitive to cheap oil, a hydro transmission does have sensitive components and exotic materials. In short it is not cheap to fix, $5000 for an overhaul if you remove and deliver to Herr's Hydro service last I checked. Probably more now due to materials cost increases.

Here she is!

Is this hydraulic oil good enough?

Dieseltech, how likely is it that this style of Injection pump is seized and will have immediately expensive damage ..as in twist off an internal part.. if engine is turned? I know you warn of this in some style of pumps. If he was to disconnect the air intake and has a proper board available to block the intake he should be able to avoid any unwanted engine windows, would you not agree?

Disclaimer, all my tractor projects are approached with extreme frugality in mind, you might even label me as a ..tight
arse. As I said I would leave the filters that are on it but n place. Now if I thought I needed to put a new filter on it to see if
it would even run I personally would use a $10 filter instead of a $25 one. I am sure your local NAPA could get you the
filter you need. Also in my opinion that oil is fine to get it running and see if it will move, because you will likely want to
drain and refill the hydro and rear end with new oil if it proves to be useable. Why trash a $100 bucket of oil if a $50 one
will do? I have no idea what the actual comparative prices are. And in this case with hydro I would agree with using what
barnyard recommended. I will attach some info about the batteries for your tractor. If you want additional info on them
search for ..IH 1066 batteries.. they are the same thing. If you try the same with Hydro 100 you get squat.
Battery info

What I meant to say was after the drain out, the fluid to put in it for long term use is the hydraulic fluid recommended by barnyard. ...oh to have a forum that allows you to edit a post..

The old PSB pumps are the ones that break plungers if stuck, the M100 pump with stuck plunger will break the guide bar plate that turns the plunger. The stuck control unit will cause trouble if stuck, the rear top four bolt cover needs removed. If the brass arm/control rod move back and forth EASILY control unit is not stuck, NO movement means it is and starting engine is just asking for trouble. Air shut off would work, but why chance it if injection pump is easy to check first?

If I was you I would probably stay away from a Hydro. They good for pto work but heavy drawbar work they have lot to be
desired. Hydros are ecpensive to keep going. Before you go buying parts, did you check if motor is stuck? Easy to check
with a bar going through timeing cover on flywheel. If it been outside for 5 years there big chance it is. Does owner
know if hydro worked when parked?

Update: tractor runs beautifully and smooth. I did find diesel fuel in the oil belly pan oddly. No water in any plugs. Hydro trans pulled through the brakes. Steers good. Has a mild front water leak. I only gave $2500 for her. Thank you all for the comments. Ended up being 2 12 volt 3et batteries.