300 input shaft T/A question.

I'm working on a 300 that was not a running machine when I got it and I currently have the engine out. With the transmission out of gear, and when I try to turn the center input shaft to the transmission in High range I can only turn it one direction (normal rotation direction). If I push the clutch in it will go both ways and it will also go both ways with the T/A engaged. I would have thought it should work both directions at any time. I'm guessing applying the clutch releases the T/A clutch and it is being prevented from spinning backwards due to the one way bearing in the T/A?

This is my first T/A tractor, I have a basic understanding of the system. Just wondering if this was normal. I'm using the clutch disc to spin it so I can only twist it backwards so much by hand. If this is normal wondering what would happen if the engine happened to spin over backwards.

The job of the ramp and rollers in the t/a
is to keep the carrier from rotating
counter clockwise. So you are correct in
why it rotates backwards with the clutch
rrleased.

That's a sure sign that the TA is working properly. Whether it will hold under a load or not remains to be seen.

As said this is normal, I have a reply in the attached thread that may help explain what you are experiencing. As said there if you are not
real mechanical minded this may just seem like jibberish. If or when your tractor is operational and you are going up an incline forward in
Direct TA ..lever forward.. and you stop, if the clutch is not pushed all the way down or not adjusted properly you will find the tractor
will not roll backward. If you have the clutch properly adjusted, pushing it down all the way should let it roll back. If need be you can
always pull the TA back which will let it roll backwards as well.
Previous YT topic

(quoted from post at 11:09:01 03/08/21) As said there if you are not
real mechanical minded this may just seem like jibberish.

Click to expand...

Talk about a light coming on as I read your response in the previous thread. It absolutely makes sense to me.

I had forgot about both being in constant mesh and hadn't considered the two different ratios fighting each other since the sprag clutch wouldn't really be working the in the reverse direction.

Thanks very much for the reply!

Sounds like you have that figured out. When you get it running, just remember don't go
downhill in low range it will freewheel and will wipe out the oneway clutch faster than
anything.

(quoted from post at 22:06:19 03/08/21) Sounds like you have that figured out. When you get it running, just remember don't go
downhill in low range it will freewheel and will wipe out the oneway clutch faster than
anything.

Click to expand...

Thanks, wasn't aware of that. I don't plan to use the T/A unless necessary. I need to go over the brakes before I do much running. found out when I first got it they do not do anything to slow it down when it's rolling. There is good pedal they just don't do much if anything at all.

The brakes are easy to take apart, but could require machining to be correct. If they are oily, replacing the pinion shaft seals is needed. They can
be pulled out using sheet metal screws and a slide hammer. New seals are likely to be thinner, and maybe 2 can be used. if you do put chassis grease
between the two seals to lube the outer one or it will starve and have a short life.
If greasy, the best is to buy replacement discs. Some have used heat to drive out oil. Literally hot enough to set on fire.
The expanders between the discs need to be clean and the balls nice and round. Any deformed ball is no good. The ramps cannot have rough spots in
them. Wire brush and polish them to assure they are smooth for balls to move on. The only lube to use is teflon dry lube, like TriFlow or other PTFE
based dry when evaporated lube. The edge springs should be compared to each other and replaced if rusty or stretched.
The friction surfaces are best if scuffed with a rotary disc on a Roto-Zip or drill using 200 to 300 grit and non directional pattern. No major
material should be ground away, pits are OK. The linkage should be assessed to make sure the pivot pins and holes are not worn or elongated. (just
PTFE lube)
With all that done, the entire internal guts of the brake, 2 discs, and assembled expander, should be stacked in the housing when it is open side up
on a bench. (best if sitting on a ring so it is steady on the little shaft cover that sticks out). Arrange the components as they will be when in
operation, centering the discs and expander. Now take a straight edge and place it across the open side of the housing. and use a caliper or feeler
gauge combination to measure the clearance from the straight edge to the friction material of the top disc. The smallest it should be is .040", and
the largest it should be is no more than .050". If parger, the linkage bars will be at an angle that is not best for applied action. If too large,
the housing should be machined/ground to remove the mating edge to get to that spec. I have been making these work since 1965.
Oh yea, use the TA like it was a bad boy. never avoid using it unless going down hill with a load that can push it faster. Move the lever as rapidly as you can between full direct (forward) and back (reduction) the direct clutch is small and if "feathered" in or out will fail. Jim

Mac rusty red, just a little friendly info here. The one way clutch is not nearly as delicate as you make it out to be. I am not sure how familiar you are with the make up of a TA but any time you use a TA tractor in direct the one way clutch is ..constantly.. over-running. Sure it is not ideal to coast a TA tractor in a lower gear over running the one way clutch at extreme speeds, but the occasional unintentional coast in low TA will not immediately roast the one way clutch or sprag in a mechanical TA. Now as for a hydraulic shifted TA in a 706 or larger tractors they do require other operational considerations.