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Front Wheel Bearing Hub

S

scubasteve

Member
Hello again, I posted a message the other day about my narrow front end Farmall M and I have another issue with my Hub assembly. Today I was finishing cleaning the hub assembly and I grabbed the inside race and pulled it out with my fingers. I was alarmed so I went ahead and used a Micrometer to check the dimensions of the Race and the Hub Assembly. The O.D. of my Race measured to 3.152 and when I measured the inside of the hub assembly where the race would seat it measured 3.162. That is a difference of .010, what stops this race from turning when the wheel is turning? I have always had to press my races into the wheel hubs this thing is loose. what should I do? I know it is the right bearing and race. Do I need to buy a wheel Hub or can I shim it out?
 
Sounds like at some point in its life it spun that race enough to cause that much clearance. All the experts will turn their nose up at this, but to get me by I put the race back in and heated some JB Weld up and Worked it down in the clearance. 20years and still holding.
 
What I have done is staked the hub with a center punch in a uniform pattern then apply the proper locktite and drive the race in.
 
There are different styles of front hubs. See link. I dont know how long ago you were looking at the parts site but they updated it late last year and now the M will pop up in a Model search, on the old site you had to know the tricks to find it. You should be able to navigate back to all the M parts pages from my link. You dont say what you will be doing with the tractor if you are going to just use it for show and parades a short cut fix will probably work. I use a center punch and put a dimple about every 3 quarter inch around the ID of the hub. Alternating about a 3 16 in. either side of centerline of the race. Then use a bearing style Loctite or the JB weld would probably work applied in the hub bore before you drive it in. I have also just drug a weld rod around inside striking arcs. The thing is ..and I do not care one way or another it is you tractor.. but if you are going to call it officially restored the parts upon assembly should be within original tolerances.
CNHI M parts diagram
 
Thank you , Ill try job weld on the Farmall c , did you let job weld set up on spindle with bearing to help center ,I have about .03 inch of wear ?
How good did you clean up the hub ? Brake clean ?
 
(quoted from post at 06:42:20 02/24/21) Due to the wear or damage I would recommend you get a whole used replacement double tire front assembly for your tractor. The ..T post.. IH part number is 6719DDX, try to
Google that.
Previous post
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I did already purchase the lower bolster but they didn't have any hubs and I figured mine were still okay.
 

I like your JB Weld idea but I have never heated up JB weld? I have squeezed the two tubes together and made the mix up before and applied it to different things. Would that be what you are referring to when you say heat it up of do they make a type that you literally heat up with a torch and it melts like solder and holds in place?
Thanks for your help!
 

when you say staked the hub I am envisioning you took a center punch and hammered close to the race on the hub and tried to flare the metal out so as to create a tighter fit and then use a blue or red loctite to sort of hold the material from spinning once you drive the race in?
Thanks for your help I really appreciate it.
 

I am not looking for fully restored or hauling it around and parading it. I use it for pulling stumps and occasionally plowing the garden and discing the garden it's more of a play tractor and sometimes it gets to do a big boy job like pull a load of hay or pull a square baler.
 
Thank you , Ill try job weld on the Farmall c , did you let job weld set up on spindle with bearing to help center ,I have about .03 inch of wear ?
How good did you clean up the hub ? Brake clean ?
 
JB Weld will flow with a little heat. I learned that this
actually bonded better because it will flow easier
and into rough areas( make sure its clean). Ive use
it to build up tractor rims that will a tad thin,
radiators, sheet metal, etc. Even used it on
hydraulic rods that were pitted. Wonderful stuff. I
always apply a little heat to whatever it is Im
working on.
 
(quoted from post at 12:44:37 02/24/21) JB Weld will flow with a little heat. I learned that this
actually bonded better because it will flow easier
and into rough areas( make sure its clean). Ive use
it to build up tractor rims that will a tad thin,
radiators, sheet metal, etc. Even used it on
hydraulic rods that were pitted. Wonderful stuff. I
always apply a little heat to whatever it is Im
working on.
Click to expand...

Thanks I like that tip! I will try it and see how it works on an inconspicuous application first of course and then I'll give her hell as they say. I have been looking for hubs and seeing what they cost and I think my tractor will be okay without a new one and a lot of people want to sell the lower bolster with it. I'm not looking to throw good money at solution to a 1500 dollar tractor. in the end it's only worth what someone is willing to pay.
 
(quoted from post at 13:22:42 02/24/21)
when you say staked the hub I am envisioning you took a center punch and hammered close to the race on the hub and tried to flare the metal out so as to create a tighter fit and then use a blue or red loctite to sort of hold the material from spinning once you drive the race in?
Thanks for your help I really appreciate it.
Click to expand...

You use a center punch to make a grid of punch marks around the full diameter and width of the area where the bearing race sets. The punch marks actually raise the metal a bit around the dimple made by the point of the punch. The raised area will center the race up and provide some grip. Coat that area and the mating surface of the race with a retaining compound, then install the race in the hub.

Red Loctite will work. One of the actual Loctite products for retaining bearings is better or #660 Retaining compound is better, IMO.
 
Punch and loctite will be fine. I'll bet there are more punched and loctited hubs on restored tractors than new hubs for replacements.
 
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