Did I Crack my 140 Engine Block??? Please advise!

EdnFarms

New User
Today I went under the barn where I store the 140. It's pretty, not too pretty because it does work on the farm. I went to see how the small/slow rear main seal drip was doing and got a surprise when I saw something else leaking. We had a pretty cold spell here lately and the hardcore veg farmer I bought it from said he had a 50/50 coolant ratio in it. I am scary to death that was not the case and I've done some major damage here. I need some advice from some old pros on where to even start to assess the situation please. I have to have this running before the weeds start popping up.
 
If you posted a picture it didnt come through, you have to
have several posts before the forum allows pictures. I believe
you can ask for early picture privileges. If you think its leaking
coolant/water from behind the carburetor then it probably
froze and cracked. If thats the case theyre usually fixable.
 
There's a "core plug" in the water jacket at the rear of the engine block, concealed by the clutch housing, the tractor has to be split to get at it.

It may have simply rusted though (as they are known to do) or it may have been pushed out of place by coolant with inadequate antifreeze that got "hard" in the cold.

Sadly, if the drip is coming out of the drain hole in the flywheel housing splitting the tractor is the only way to be SURE of what's going on an to fix it.
 
Yup, behind the carburetor is a place that cracks easily in a freeze up. First place I'd look.
 
(quoted from post at 15:10:46 02/23/21) Do you have coolant left to check the freezing point?
That is first thing I would do.

I did not try to send a picture yet. If it forum would allow it, I definitely will. The drip on the floor is about exactly where there would be a gas drip if I were to leave the gas petcock open over night. That's been closed for the winter, as I'm planning to clean the tank. There is some moisture at the lip of the oil pan. Does not smell of fuel and is a bit slippery. There is plenty of fluid in the radiator (an index finger in I'd say). I am not seeing an actual drip. No moisture coming from bell housing. I may be crazy, but it looks like there is some residue streaking from the head gasket area down to where the moisture is at the lip of the oil pan. I had noticed a much lighter spot on the floor early but figured that was the float bowl emptying out. Then it got cold again. Spot stayed the same size. This morning, much warmer, bigger spot on the concrete. I've been searching for the leak by dapping around with a paper towel. Haven't found it yet.
 
I've checked the coolant and meter shows good to -35 F. I've touched everywhere on the carb side of the engine, even up behind the carb with a blue shop paper towel and I've only found some dampness around the bolts of the oil pan. I'm so puzzled!! ??? Any ideas out there, I think I'm going to crank it up in the morning and see if something shows up
 
(quoted from post at 20:18:55 02/23/21) I've checked the coolant and meter shows good to -35 F. I've touched everywhere on the carb side of the engine, even up behind the carb with a blue shop paper towel and I've only found some dampness around the bolts of the oil pan. I'm so puzzled!! ??? Any ideas out there, I think I'm going to crank it up in the morning and see if something shows up

I expect you don't have any real issues. Cold weather seems to bring out drips and seeps not seen in warm weather. Radiator hoses will drip, gas seeps out of carbs, shutoffs, and sediment bowls due to differences in contraction of materials at the component interfaces. Just things I see on mine.
 
It could be just condensation on the outside of the block. If the block was cold enough to worry about freezing it might be cold enough to condense moisture when the outside temp warms up like the condensation on a cold glass of tea in the summertime.
 
Also check for water in oil. That can also occur after a freeze. But behind the carb and generator is where they usually crack first. There's also a "welch plug" (or "freeze plug") accessible through the bell housing that likes to burst. Dave
 
Location would help this mystery more. Most of the lower 48, -35 antifreeze would be fine. The reason for location. If in ND,MT,WY some of those places would need a bit more maybe.
 

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