Need valve spring retainer/spring cup

Any leads on where I can get a replacement valve spring cup? I can find the keys, springs, valves, guides, etc...but not the round spring cup. I'll take a used one at this point. My old one was worn in the middle...all dished out.

On what it is not one size fits all. So hard to help you with out knowing what your working on

1946 H, distillate head, exhaust valve spring cup...or spring retainer cup. The round metal disc on top of the spring into which the valve keepers rest (stem of valve goes through the middle).

Try this, double check availability.
Part link

(quoted from post at 00:06:07 02/22/21) Try this, double check availability.
Part link

Click to expand...

Its a bit scary that i couldn't find it anywhere...thanks for the tip, I hope they come through. I had (mistakenly) assumed that this was a common part so I had Dremel'ed the old one off. BIG MISTAKE. Although I had zero compression out of this cylinder, I still had just enough spring pressure to at least hold the exhaust valve in place enough to cause no issues (other than running on 3 cylinders). With no spring pressure now the valve is just sitting on top of the piston and the tractor is now undriveable. Short of trying to buy a distillate head and scavange the spring retainer from it I could possible be up $hi/ creek.

Nothing special about the spring cup, found on all H through 350 heads intake and exhaust valves except on exhaust valves of some
heads with valve roto caps. Roto caps probably not on your head unless added at rebuild. Should have some good ones from cracked
heads if no luck on finding.

Question:

Parts book shows 42040D "Seat, Valve Spring" the round 'spring cup'

Book also shows 42098D "Retainer, Valve Stem" which looks like a little clip.

I know I need the 'seat' , but what are the 'retainers?' they are not the keys, because those are obviously shown on the diagram. I don't recall a separate, second little part called a retainer.

Clip went on valve stem below the keepers and was to prevent valve from dropping out of guide if keeper failed. Valve stem originally
had a grove they went on. Some valves were replaced without a grove and some clips were just left off when work was done. Number
you posted for spring seat is correct.

Sorry, got off a line while looking at my phone. The
42040D number is correct, see link. Those are a little
more spendy, I would probably track down a used
one, should be plenty around. Any idea what caused
it to dish out? Did the end of the valve just wear down
that bad? I assume you are replacing the rocker arm
for that valve. Is this a complete rebuild, did you look
at the cam lobe ang lifter for that valve is that all okay.
Make sure you run it with the valve cover off and
make sure oil is getting up to all the rockers.
Part link

This is what IH called a spring seat and the clip that went on valve stem.

(quoted from post at 11:23:57 02/22/21) Sorry, got off a line while looking at my phone. The
42040D number is correct, see link. Those are a little
more spendy, I would probably track down a used
one, should be plenty around. Any idea what caused
it to dish out? Did the end of the valve just wear down
that bad? I assume you are replacing the rocker arm
for that valve. Is this a complete rebuild, did you look
at the cam lobe and lifter for that valve is that all okay.
Make sure you run it with the valve cover off and
make sure oil is getting up to all the rockers.
Part link

Click to expand...

It was a very strange way for an "upper spring seat" to wear-out. What essentially happened, for lack of the right term, is that the hole in the seat sort of mushroomed causing the valve to 'sink' down far enough into the hole as to cause the valve to not have enough spring pressure to fully close. When I first looked at the valve you could not see the 'keepers' (or keys) due to how far it had sunk. In fact, the valve was so far down and sort of wedged in there to the point that I could not remove the upper seat...even with the valve spring fully compressed.

The face of the rocker is in good shape, spring is fine, push rid is straight, valve is fine and not bent. The valve fully seats as verified by leak-down test. I even have a cheap borescope that I stuck into the cylinder and the valve isn't burned or worn or anything. It is not a full tear-down, so I have no idea about the cam lobe, but when rotating the engine everything moves normally. What I found surprising (my background is Porsche street cars and Xfinity race cars) is how little lift there is in the tractor engine valves. It is a pure low rev, torque machine for sure!

Well, like I said, I found the seats. Robert's Tractor Supply...online. Whew! I ordered extras because you just never know....

Update:
Well, the weather got warmer and I got all the parts installed. The tip of my valve stem needed a bit of burnishing because the keys were not quite meeting-up inside the upper seat...causing the stem tip to 'ride high' in the seat. After some wrangling with an overhead valve spring compressor that didn't quite fit as it should I got it all together. It started RIGHT up and has never run better. It's so refreshing to be the teller of a success story. Thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction with the part numbers. I ordered extra because you just never know.
The best part of the repair and fresh valve adjustment is that the tractor was able to pull one of my wagons uphill, at idle, IN 4TH GEAR!!! (Not a regular practice of mine, but HEY!) At some point I want to replace the distillate head with a gas head because I actually use the tractor for real farm work like plowing, discing, and brush hog work...but for now I'm good.

Updates: In trying to source new "Retainer Clips" (part #42098D) I found that this is a hard-to-come-by part. Messicks FINALLY sent me ONE clip after months of back-order, and they said they can't get more. I found them on another site gtengineparts.com...cross-listed as a New Holland part. I placed an order for 8 of them (future use...only $1.50 each) and crossed my fingers I don't get the dreaded "we don't have them" phone call.

My Farmall H still runs great. I need a ring job for sure, confirmed by leak-down test. I have to pull spark-plugs #1 and 3 every so often and clean the oily gunk off them to start firing again. Given that the tractor is 75 years old and used several times a week for real farm work, I should be grateful. I add oil every time though so I definitely need to find a good window to pull the pistons, do rings, and hone. I'm tempted to just do all new cylinders since I'm pulling the head...but I want to measure the cylinders first just to make sure.

robertstractor.com has this part....in case anyone was needing them. Only $2 each.