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49 cub clutch

grandpa Love

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
On our new cub the graphite bearing that works like a throw out bearing is loose and rattles around, way more than it should. It is in the hanger correctly and just pivots back and forth too much. We have taken the round cover off the hand hole in bell housing on 2 of our other cubs to compare. It appeared that the bearing needs to be closer to the clutch fingers. Pedal is already as far that way as it can go. It also appears that the bearing and metal carrier are brand new. Only shiney thing in there!! Is it a simple matter to adjust the clutch fingers closer to the bearing? At this point the clutch is working perfectly. I can rest my foot on the clutch pedal and it moves the bearing just enough where it doesn't bounce around and rattle. With tractor off and looking through the round hole it appears it needs to move 1/4 to 12 inch closer to clutch fingers. Will adjusting the fingers affect how the clutch works?
 
If you've ever adjusted valve lash on an overhead valve engine, adjusting the fingers on the clutch is similar to that. There is a lock nut and a stud. You loosen the lock nut and turn the stud to make the adjustment.

The highest point of the clutch finger should be 1-1/4" from the flat "core" of the pressure plate. However most of the pressure plates you can get these days don't have enough stud to get there, so 1-1/8" is the new acceptable measurement. Or, make longer studs.

Adjusting the fingers is much easier with the tractor split, and it sounds like you should do this anyway just to see what's going on with the loose and rattling throwout bearing. You may need a new hanger arm for that.
 
Comparing that hanger bracket to the ones
in our other cubs, it appears brand new.
The other cubs are dirty this one is
shiney clean. Makes me think someone
replaced it but didn't adjust anything.
 
Be careful grandpa. Put new graphite bearing in neighbors cub one time and thought everything ok. Lasted about 10 hrs. The pressure plate fingers had developed a “edge” that I failed to see. Eat the bearing out quickly. Had to break it down and put in pressure plate and another bearing. Live and learn.
 
(quoted from post at 13:49:31 01/04/21) If you've ever adjusted valve lash on an overhead valve engine, adjusting the fingers on the clutch is similar to that. There is a lock nut and a stud. You loosen the lock nut and turn the stud to make the adjustment.

The highest point of the clutch finger should be 1-1/4" from the flat "core" of the pressure plate. However most of the pressure plates you can get these days don't have enough stud to get there, so 1-1/8" is the new acceptable measurement. Or, make longer studs.

Adjusting the fingers is much easier with the tractor split, and it sounds like you should do this anyway just to see what's going on with the loose and rattling throwout bearing. You may need a new hanger arm for that.
Click to expand...
MHO , backing off the nuts will close the gap , but it will also reduce the spring tension on the pressure plate allowing the clutch to slip. Running it that way will cost more than tearing it apart now to find out the problem .
 
In my opinion, the bearing, and bearing carrier might be kept more aligned with a pair of (non standard modified hardware store springs over the top pivot pin, and hooked on the TO bearing to put a little tension on the ears sticking out into the fork. Light springs would do, maybe just one. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 15:23:05 01/04/21) Is it possible previous owner put hanger
in backwards?
Click to expand...
To be honest, that was my first thought when I started reading this thread. Yes, it is possible to put the hanger in backwards. Get a good light and look up through the handhole of this tractor and your other cubs and compare.
 
Brand new as in China junk maybe or install backwards or just flat out incorrectly made?? Been two many years since I have split a cub to do a clutch job but do have the manual for reference
 
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