IH 340 runs, but dies under the slightest load. Ideas?

Hey all,

I've got an International 340 Utility tractor that I've been trying to get up and running correctly. It is the first tractor I've owned, but I do have some mechanical/engine knowledge from my years working on cars.

I was hoping that I might get some pointers as to what I should look into on this tractor to get it running right.

It starts up great and even moves around in 1st and 2nd gear just fine, but when it's under load of any sort (even simply going uphill on gentle grades), it just runs out of power and stalls out.

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[*:c4044d9eef] I've rebuilt the carb, checked that it was clean and that the needle and floats are working correctly.
[*:c4044d9eef] I've checked the fuel lines for flow issues, but it's also doing great.
[*:c4044d9eef] Governor seems to be working fine, but even manually moving it to maximum power, it doesn't have much to give.
[*:c4044d9eef] I have bought new spark plugs Champion 515's. - the ones in the engine came with it when I got the tractor were NGK's. Number 2 plug looks brand new, but 1, 3, and 4 plugs are carbon fouled. I haven't put them in yet, but plan to do so soon.[/list:u:c4044d9eef]

What else can I check on that would be related to a loss of power under load issue?

Thanks,
- Snowfall

The Champ plug could well be part of the problem since they come form the land of almost right. Get a good set of NGK plug

sounds like a broken spring in the gov will the engine run at top speed

Probably worth checking the ignition timing.

Have you checked the points and points gap? Wear in distributor shaft?

Snowfall welcome to YT. When you rebuilt the carb did you remove the fitting from the carb that the fuel line
attaches to? That fitting has a screen in it that can plug. Pull it out and clean it with carb cleaner or gas and blow
it out with compressed air. It is shown as number 10 in the linked diagram. I just chose that carb model as an
example. If you select...Back to Manual... you can view all the parts diagrams for your tractor. I will recommend
viewing the parts page on a PC and not a phone, if you do it on a phone there is a learning curve or at least this
is true on an iPhone. In particular once you select an individual part to veiw details on when you close that the
diagram gets out of whack. You then have to use the slide bar below it to make it smaller and then reposition it
and enlarge it by spreading two fingers. It can be frustrating.
Case IH 340 parts page

Sorry had to add this reply because you cannot edit posts on this forum. I am just presuming the issue you are having is fuel related, do you have an add on inline filter those can sometimes restrict flow on a gravity flow system. And as far as originally the screen in the carb is only a last debris stop point before the needle and seat. The major screening is done by the fine screen that should be in the sediment bowl base below the tank. Number 3 in this link.
More diagrams

(quoted from post at 14:41:52 05/30/20) The Champ plug could well be part of the problem since they come form the land of almost right. Get a good set of NGK plug

Click to expand...

There were NGK's in there already. They looked poor condition, so I replaced them with the Champion 515's. Doesn't seem to have helped, though.

(quoted from post at 14:57:04 05/30/20) sounds like a broken spring in the gov will the engine run at top speed

Click to expand...

I did look inside the oil-fill cap and could see the spring moving back and forth just fine. I did wonder about the governor having other issues possibly, but I didn't want to disassemble that until I had exhausted my other options.

(quoted from post at 15:23:58 05/30/20) Probably worth checking the ignition timing.

Click to expand...

This is on my list of things to do. I'm not 100% sure on the steps for this method (being new to tractors). I have the I&T and owners manual to guide me.

(quoted from post at 16:34:21 05/30/20) Have you checked the points and points gap? Wear in distributor shaft?

Click to expand...

I checked the old gaps which were okay. I also just replaced the spark plugs today and so I had to gap them before installing the new ones.

I haven't looked into the distributor shaft yet. I'll put that on the list for sure. I did look inside the distributor cap to see if there was anything off, but that was all so far.

(quoted from post at 17:33:32 05/30/20)When you rebuilt the carb did you remove the fitting from the carb that the fuel line attaches to? That fitting has a screen in it that can plug. Pull it out and clean it with carb cleaner or gas and blow it out with compressed air.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I made sure that screen was clear. Thanks for the idea, though!

Throw the champion plugs away.

So I continue to focus on fuel flow. Is the screen in the
top of the sediment bowl? And do you know how
clean the fuel line is? If that sediment bowl screen is
not there and floating type debris is going to the carb
that fine screen in the carb inlet can clog quickly. Also
if the tractor has been setting debris in the tank can
move around and plug that inlet in the top of the
sediment bowl.

Champion plug now days are not worth the $$ to buy go back to NGK they are 10 times better

Float level too low in the carb??
Jim

IMHO your tractor is running off the idle circuit only. If adjusting the load screw has no effect on performance the main nozzle it plugged up.
Did you pull item 17 in the carb diagram. That's the main nozzle, it has tiny holes around it that only can be cleaned by removing it.

Alright, so I just finished disassembling the front end of the tractor. Pulled the governor out and gave it a good cleaning and exam. Everything is good there. I made sure the adjusting bolts were set properly.

Pulled off the sediment bowl and found a plastic disc (lid to a gas can. Must have been from previous owner - I'm not missing any of my lids) in the fuel tank after draining it. Removed it from possibly clogging the drain hole. No change to performance, though.

Drained the radiator and checked the air filter oil pan, no anomalies.

Replaced the engine belt since I had the radiator off anyway.
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[*:43159c0d04] The governor has what appears to be a fill-cap. Is there supposed to be fluid filling the chamber (it was empty)? Or is it just an inspection port?

[*:43159c0d04] I noticed before that the engine loses power and almost stalls if I turn the steering wheel. But, I just realized that it only bogs down when turning right. Turning left, the engine has full power.
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(quoted from post at 18:21:29 05/30/20) So I continue to focus on fuel flow. Is the screen in the top of the sediment bowl?

Click to expand...

I did pull the sediment bowl and ensured that it was clean and that the gasket was replaced. It was pretty old and shiveled, but it's brand new now. When doing so, I do not recall seeing a screen, but I didn't disassemble the top assembly of the sediment bowl (wasn't aware that you could, but maybe the screen is visible without digging into it?).

(quoted from post at 18:21:29 05/30/20) And do you know how clean the fuel line is? If that sediment bowl screen is not there and floating type debris is going to the carb that fine screen in the carb inlet can clog quickly. Also if the tractor has been setting debris in the tank can move around and plug that inlet in the top of the sediment bowl.

Click to expand...

I replaced the fuel line with a new one, so I know it is clean, but I did find a lot of sediment inside of the carb inlet filter. I have cleaned it out and have not seen any more clogging there. Next time I pull the sediment bowl, I will look for the screen you referred to. Does it happen to just sit atop the gasket perhaps?

(quoted from post at 08:03:26 05/31/20) IMHO your tractor is running off the idle circuit only. If adjusting the load screw has no effect on performance the main nozzle it plugged up.
Did you pull item 17 in the carb diagram. That's the main nozzle, it has tiny holes around it that only can be cleaned by removing it.

Click to expand...

I ordered a carb rebuild kit and while replacing parts, I pulled the main nozzle. I sprayed carb cleaner through it and made sure that all of the holes around it were free-flowing.

(quoted from post at 17:36:56 08/09/20) However, the 340 has a separate pump for the power steering if I am not mistaken. That it bogs when turning one way implies a plugged relief valve or something wrong with that system.

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I have definitely not looked into steering pumps or relief valves. Will put it on the to-do list.

(quoted from post at 17:36:56 08/09/20) Does the engine respond to adjusting the engine speed setting on the dash? Does it rev up and come to high idle like it should? Can you drop it back to low idle afterwards?

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The lever does affect the engine speed, but I am still researching how to adjust the governor (can't find a lot of documentation on the process other than which two bolts to turn/set). I believe that it needs to be set properly to get the full range of motion to the lever's effect. The linkage also seems to be moving very oddly, but I can't determine any missing mounts or anything. It does go back to a lower engine speed when returning the lever to the low setting.

(quoted from post at 17:36:56 08/09/20) Does it die when you attempt to drive it? If so, that is a symptom of being stuck in two gears at once, locked/frozen brakes, or some other transmission problem. Dave

Click to expand...

I haven't gotten it all put back together completely yet (had to pull the radiator to get to the governor. Seems ridiculous to have to disassemble so much to pull that part!), but prior to that, it would drive fine until you go uphill, pick up a load in the loader bucket, or turn all the way to the right. In all other situations, it drove just fine.