Farrmall Cub help oil pan

OK everyone, thanks for all the help everyone is giving me. I have a 1949 Cub and I want to change the oil and clean the pan. I have never ever done a pan cleaning so any and all help you can give me I will take. I already purchased the pan gasket. So what is the process? How to clean the pan, removing the old gasket and installing the new one, and how may quarts or oil and what weight do I use. Sorry but I am not a mechanic but I am learning. Thank you for all the help you provide.
 
Do you have a wire brush on a bench grinder, or one on a hand grinder, like a 4 inch hand grinder works the best,with a wire brush on that, to take the old gasket off, down to metal. Can you get some Stanasol, its a parts washing fluid, there are differant names for it,kinda like gasoline but a lot safer,i would not use gasoline, unless you want to blow your shop up, how many quarts of oil i have no idea! Use a little permatex, gasket maker, on the gasket to help hold it in place,and prevent leak's. Keep everything very clean !
 
Just so you're aware the three pan screws at the rear of the block are a challenge to get to since they are mostly obscured by the bellhousing. You'll need a 1/4" ratchet and short socket, most likely with a u-joint. Be careful re-tightening the little 1/4" screws - my Cub came to me with one stripped out which I need to repair since the pan leaks a little at that location. I used a thin amount of RTV silicone on the pan side of my gasket and wish I would have put some on the top as well due to the above problem. The only problem with doing this is that it glues the pan to the block which would make later disassembly and cleanup that much harder. Make sure you get all remnants of the old gasket removed from both surfaces before going back together. Tighten all the screws a little at a time so as to compress the gasket evenly.

I use 15W-40 oil in my old tractors - this is a good all-around viscosity for these kinds of engines. The selection of engine oil is a place where you can deviate from what the manual says since modern multi-viscosity oils weren't around back when your tractor was new and oil technology has advanced significantly. (This is a good place to add that if you don't have an operator's manual yet it would be very helpful to get one. They are available from numerous sources on-line.) The manual lists a crankcase capacity of 3 quarts but if I remember right mine took a little more than that.
 
To put your mind at ease, the process is not exactly rocket science. It's pretty much common sense. There's nothing there to go "BOING!" across the room, never to be seen again, if you remove the wrong bolt.

Drain the oil. Remove the pan. Clean it out. Scrape off the old gasket. Install the new gasket. Bolt the pan back in place.

How to scrape off the old gasket? Exactly how you think you would do it. Very carefully. With a scraper. If you are leaving marks in the engine block or on the pan, you are scraping too hard. Remember, common sense.

Bolts are all righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. Just keep track of where they came out, as a few of them are a different length. Again, common sense.

You'll find most of this wrenching thing to just be using your head and common sense.
 

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