Tractor ran and drove 5 years ago when parked.
Owner was going to pull it on a trailer and drop it off, but it would not move. He thinks it's the brakes.
This tractor has a backhoe on it which makes it challenging to work on brakes. There are two large threaded rods that will need to be removed in order to remove brake cover.
This is the route we will take as long as long as no one advises differently.
We were not there when he tried to move it.
Even though it has loader and backhoe it seems like we would be able to rock it a little, but it is solid.
If engine is seized and clutch is stuck, could this give the same problem?
We will remove starter next visit.
 
as long as its not in a gear the engine or the clutch being seized would mot cause this issue * it could be stuck in 2 gears though)
simple and best way to get it to roll if its the brakes is loosen the bolts on the cover of the brakes a turn or 2 , it should roll if its the brakes- its a common problem I have when I get a tractor thats been sitting a longtime
 
Don't bother the starter at this point. carefully look at the rear axle where the axle comes out of the housing. if motion is detected there at all, it
is likely either stuck in 2 gears at once, or the brakes are rusted stuck. The brake housing is not a cover, it is part of the friction surfaces in the
functional stack of parts. loosening the 5 bolts on each side will (might) allow it to free up, but if rusted solid, might need disassembly, including
the effort to make clearance. Do you want it? Do you need it? They have pretty bad steering gearboxes, even with power steering, they are OK only
without loader and other attachments. It would not be my choice unless given to me, and I needed it. Jim
 
Do we want it ? Yes.
Do we need it? No.
But it is free, and we thought it might be a good project for both my son and I.
We will most likely remove backhoe and loader.
We understand steering is often an issue with these 300's.
 
Perfect reply. I encourage your continued efforts with this project. The tractor is basically a great unit. I own a 350U and really understand them
well. I look forward to assisting is any capacity. Working with ones son (or daughter) on projects is priceless. Be careful with the weight of the
backhoe as supporting it while disconnecting is critical. pulling the hoe arm out straight and flat on the ground will make it much easier. If I over
explain things it is because I teach, and it is not to be construed as an affront to what you know. Jim
 
Jim-thanks for your encouragement !
We are definitely the students here and sincerly appreciate the help.
We will post again as soon as we've been back to the tractor.
Thanks too for your concern if/when we remove attachments.
We will proceed with caution, but so you know we have support equipment where the tractor is.
My plan is to remove both loader and backhoe, then get tractor home to work on. It is only 5 miles away but will be much better here.
 
(quoted from post at 06:49:42 08/29/20) The brake housing is not a cover, it is part of the friction surfaces in the
functional stack of parts. Jim
I described it as a cover so anyone who does not know the internals would easy know what I was talking about
I subscribe to the K.I.S.S. principle
 
We loosened up the housing and got some movement with a tug.
We will be heading back to tractor to put some air to tires along with getting loader off ground.
 
We finally got this tractor home via flatbed wrecker.
We got the loader and backhoe off uneventfully and without using torches to cut anything. Easily towed it close to barn once we had easy access to loosened the brake housing.
We will be getting new brake parts-springs, bearings and discs.
The splines on the pinion shaft are pitted. Any used ones we see online look to be in the same condition. I assume the brake discs should freely slide on these splines. Is a wire wheel our best bet for trying to salvage the pinion? We will also replace seal and o ring.
This is the first time I've dealt with IH disc brakes of this style and I like it.
As far as starting we will be removing carb when rebuild kit arrives. Doing any carb work with that loader on looked frustrating. Will try to get a picture up soon. I'm thinking a diamond in the rough now that the loader and backhoe is off.

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This post was edited by Little Fred on 12/04/2022 at 03:07 am.
 
Seems like quite a project. Have you determined if the engine is free to turn? If not in my opinion before you sock a bunch of money into other parts I would recommend you focus on getting the engine running to make a determination of what all you have going on. Have you checked the gear case for water, loosen bottom plug between the rear wheels until it drips, is it dripping water or lube? If you are somewhere that is cold enough to freeze and the tractor moved then you are probably okay. Just a word of warning on the brakes because you mentioned bearings. I am not sure how successful you will be at removing those pinion bearings from the outside. The warning is the piece they set in has threaded holes for jack bolts to push them out of the case. The thing is that the cage I call it has a notch cut out for the axle bull gear to pass through if you try to pull that part out with out the bull gear removed you break that cage. In the attached link I am talking about part 6. And I will say that if you try to view that site on a phone or at least an iPhone it does not work the best a PC is much better. Best of luck.
https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/c...56875BD6/55CD6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6
 
The engine turns fine, and we had it fire with a little gas in carb while it was still at previous owners. All fluids look good, although I have been meaning to crack drain plugs.

Now I'm a little concerned as the bull pinion, #9, pulled out with no resistance after taking item #1 -bearing retainer/inner brake plate off?!
 

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