Which Farmall to buy?

Danvilletim

New User
Hi Folks. We just bought a 10 acre parcel which is perhaps a good excuse to buy an old restored farmall.

I want something that is somewhat parade ready but also can bush hog, finish mow, box blade long drive way.

Aesthetics are important as I dont like the look of the smaller cubs and I want to make sure it has the hydraulics/ PTO necessary to work the above. Im a bit confused by terms such as live PTO?

I like the look 1957 350/ 400. What do you suggest!
 
Personally I would look for a Farmall 340, 504, or even a 544. That may/would give you the smaller frame size newer tractor, the newer sheet metal styling,
live PTO, power steering, front vs. rear mount, etc. And maybe 3 point vs. IH's fast hitch system. Three point implements are readily available so from that
standpoint even the 340 can be crossed off of your wish list. The discussion could go on and on; this is just a start.
 
live pto, allows the tractor to stop forward motion and still power to the pto. uh, if you are bush hogging and get into some heavy cutting, with the live pto, you can stop the tractor and still cut with the bush hog.

chose a tractor with a 3 point hitch.
 
If you want all those toys on the tractor move on up to a 706/756 or so. Much easier to use with the live pto/independent pto and live hyraulics and power steering. If you want a loader the pwoer steering and live hydraulics will be almost a necessity. Live items mean they keep working when the clutch is pushed out. The older tractors like the H,M and such didn't have that. The models I mentioned can have 3pt and quick hitch on them. you are going to be wanting a true 3 pt for the work you want to do. The quick hitch can be worked into a bastardized version though there would be no draft control.
 
Not to pick a fight on a farmall page
but.....get a Ford 860 or 960 for work.
3 point hitch is a must have. Get the
Farmall for the parade and to pull a
trailer around. I have 4 Fords and 4
Farmalls.
 
I agree with Grandpa Love here. I have 11 acres. The Fords are better at what you are talking about. You will not like the standard 'Farmall' tractors if you have many hills, trees or stuff to go under or around. Unless you get the utility versions, the Farmalls are high frame tractors meant for row cropping and cultivating. I'd really like a Ford 2000 or better for doing my mowing and driveway grading but I have my great-grandfathers Ford 2N that I've rebuilt lately. The Live PTO is something I don't have on this tractor but would benefit from. I have recently acquired my Father's Farmall Super H for pulling the people wagon and doing the parade stuff.
 
I have to agree with your choices, sorta, the 350 gas FARMALL, or even the International 350 Utility.
There are tractors around with factory power steering, not sure about the Internation PS source, but the
FARMALL was the Behlin system. I'd recommend a 450 over a 400. The International equivalent was the
W450, Those vintage Fast Hitches had down pressure, could lift entire rear of tractor off the ground, or
remove a pin and no down force, just the weight of the attachment holding implement to ground. Three
point hitches do not have down pressure. Only caution I can think of is the Torque Amplifier that would
be on either of those models would be able to "free-wheel" downhill in the low side. Just keep the lever
to the left of the operator forward and don't worry about it. If you need additional pulling power or to
slow down to mow taller thicker weeds pull that lever back till it latches. Lever on your right controls
live pto, forward is off, push button on top and slowly move lever back till it latches, it runs till you
push button down again and move lever forward, don't move too fast, the pto brakes whatever you are
running when pushed too far forward too fast.
I put a BOAT LOAD of hours on a 450 gas from spring 1965 to fall 1968. Some days burning 2 to 2-1/2
tanks of gas a day, 21 gallon tanks. That was running maximum full load. Things like cultivating corn 1st
time at idle in a low gear I could run two days all day on a tank.
Neighbor had a 350 FARMALL as his first and only tractor, was his loader tractor too. Only thing it
didn't do was pick corn, borrowed his Father-in-law's Farmall MD and 2M picker. But 350 plowed, 3-14's,
risked, 10 ft, planted, cultivated.
The newer tractors, 404, 504,544, 706,806, would all do what you want too, but would cost more to buy
and to run.
 
You have to get into something made after 1963 in order to get a 3pt hitch in an IH tractor. That pushes the price up and probably isn't the styling you're after.

The problem with fast hitch is finding the implements. Unless the tractor comes with the implements, they can be somewhat hard to find. On the other hand 3pt implements can be found anywhere. Heck you can even walk into some stores and almost literally pick them off a shelf and put them in your shopping cart.

There are fast hitch adapters as well, but you almost need a different set for each implement, as the dimensions can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.
 
I think that a good International 544 would be a nice fit real good 3 pt hitch and hydraulics great power steering economical and a little over 50 hp
and in the international version lower and stable an all around easy tractor to use also you can find them with a standard 5 speed w/TA or hydrostatic
drive transmissions my 2 cents good luck
 
You could split these jobs up.

I really like finish mowing with a Super A. Then give your heavier work to a larger tractor.

Having a tractor w loader bucket for outdoor heavy lifting is really amazing.
 
A 3 point hitch and live PTO will be a necessity for those jobs. You could add an aftermarket hitch to a 300 thru 450 for under $1,000, but a newer 706 gas with 3 point might be in the same total cost range.

A big question is how much time do you have available to get things done? If you are retired and are killing excess time doing projects for entertainment, an older smaller slower machine will be fine. If you are working full time and have to burn vacation time or turn down overtime to finish your home projects, a newer larger faster machine will get things done quicker.
 
I'd vote for a fasthitch 400. Could use the smaller and larger point equipment. Depends on where you are located. Some stuff available, some not. Can always get an adapter to hookup to 3pt eq. Ppl make new ones on eBay around $300.
 
there are adapters to go from 3 point to fast hitch. when i was growing up we had a narrow front 340 rowcrop. it was a short wheelbase and sat pretty
low .was a very handy tractor.
 
You don't say what your budget is. I'm sure all the tractors suggested so far will work well for you, but I'll rock the boat a little by suggesting something else.

Way back in 1987 I bought a 15-acre acreage. In the spring of '88 I bought a 1947 Farmall M with a Model 33 loader and a 6-foot bush hog for $1500. It doesn't have live hydraulics, but that hasn't been a problem as long as I'm paying attention and thinking ahead when I'm using the tractor and the bush hog. Without live hydraulics, when the bush hog blade is spinning, the tractor will be moving forward even with the clutch pushed in. And that heavy blade takes a while to stop. Some hard braking helps, but again, you have to plan ahead. I should buy an overrun clutch for the bush hog but I haven't done that yet.

I don't have a box blade, but the previous owner of my acreage left a 10-foot blade of some kind behind when he left. I think it might be from a horse drawn road grader or something similar. I cut it down to the right length and figured out how to mount it underneath my bush hog. I can raise and lower the bush hog and the blade as needed, and it works great to keep my 1/4 mile driveway in good shape.

If you can afford it, I'd suggest you buy something bigger, better, and newer than what I've got. But you can almost always figure out how to make what you've got work for you.

Good luck in your tractor search!
 

Thanks for the great info.. budget is $6-8k. I certainly like the older late 50s styling. But Id rather find one with the 3 Pt conversion or with bush hog already. Where would you guys shop?
 
Depending on where you are the 06,56 models can be had for about your price range. Much better tractor than those older number series.
 
You're not going to get an 06 or 56 series in creampuff condition to show for $6-8K. Those you're looking more in the range of $15-25K.

Plus now you're talking about tractors in the 10,000+lb range. Do you really need something that big and heavy to brush hog and grade a driveway? What's the land like off the beaten path? Wet and marshy? Get one of those big beasts stuck and you're looking at a major tow truck bill to get it winched out.

Just things to think about now, rather than later, when the tractor shows up in your driveway and you think, "WHAT HAVE I DONE?!?"
 
I'm not really an IH guy but I have a IH 464 Industrial that I really like.It has a heavy duty front end end,great hydrastatic steering 8 forward gears with a reverser on the steering column.
Live PTO that is hydraulically engaged/disengaged good all around handy tractor.
 
What do i Recommend , That opens up a keg of worms . Everybody has there PET , Buying old tractors can be fun till it comes time to WORK on them . You can buy a gem or a Nightmare and way tomany people out there peddling Sherman and Williams REBUILD . Do not be and OLD CROW and go by shinny paint alone . Paint is the last thing and the sell it by the gallons CHEAP . Even the most expensive RED paint out there can be cheaper then the sins it covers . You want a play toy and a work toy the two don't go together . For what your wanting to do you do not even want to go with a large frame tractor and you really don't want a gasser in a BIG tractor . The little I H 300-350's if they have P/S the steering boxes are weak and finding good parts is almost impossible The T/A's are also a problem and if your not use to the quarks with them and on hill country you could get in trouble as in low side they FREE WHEEL on the down hill ,when they start getting out of adjustment they become vary hard to shift . In the Farmall line the T/A is the same with the free wheeling on the low side . Keep in mind here of the age factor and the fact that they most likely have all had extensive FIELD testing and abuse . and this applys to all Colors . The best money you could spend when buying a used tractor is the amount you pay to someone to go with you that KNOWS what he is looking at and checks it out first and not go by what the seller tells you . Your new to the game with little to no experience So a tractor that is easy to get on and off sets low has power steering and GOOD brakes with all the LIVE features a roll bar and seat belt .And a tractor of a Max Hp. rage up to fifty horses as ya don't need 10 Hp. per acre
 
I'll really catch heck.

I bought a new Kubota L3301 with a loader and 5' brush hog.
That gets all the chores done. 3 cylinder diesel.

Now I am looking for a Toy. But I really want it to be a 1944 War edition Farmall H. Like my dad's that I foolishly let my brother have. And I want it in good running condition, maybe even parade grade.


sometimes the toy is not the best implement to get real work done these days.

Gene
 
I have a Super C and a Hi Clear 504. The fast hitches are neat but the implements are limited and expensive and not practical. The 504 is great. Has a loader, 3 pt hitch, live PTO, PS and 45HP or so. It can do anything you need. If you want to start smaller, then a Ferguson TO 35 is a nice starter...everything but the PS....and easy to get on if you are old like me
 

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