560 TA delete question

Greetings,

I have a farmall 560 D with a farmhand F11 loader with bale grapple. I primarily use it for moving bales and loader work. The TA is not working correctly and the clutches do not release correctly and if I stop the tractor under load the transmission bind and I can,t get it out of gear. I have learned to shift to neutral while still moving. I have a slot with a mechanic to repair.

My question is should I repair the TA or install a TA delete assuming one is available for a 560?

This is a possible solution.
TA adjust
The process (as I do it): Set the clutch free play at 1 inch down from all the way touching measured at the foot plate to cast contact in the pedal arm. this can be felt by hand. In an open area with nothing to run into, use low gear, and measure the point that letting up on the pedal causes the tractor to begin to move. This is the engagement point of the master clutch. The TA linkage is now adjusted so it begins to be released at this position of the foot pedal. further depressing the pedal releases the TA clutch fully. (usually another 3/4" or so to an inch of foot travel. This assures that the TA clutch is fully engaged when the master clutch applies power through it. It also assures that the full pedal depression releases the TA clutch so shifting is not bound up. The lever should apply and fully release the TA clutch very near the center of its travel. Doing this compensates for linkage wear and I have had no issues doing it this way. Jim

Hopefully adjustment of T/A will solve the issue you are having. If it is not adjusted properly it makes it really hard to get out of gear.(have had experience with that on SMTA) If the adjustment doesn't fix it there could be issue in T/A clutch. you can look at it by removing plate on top of torque tube. As far as a delete, I think it was an option so probably you could do it. On a loader tractor you don't really need T/A especially as 560 seems to have pretty slow gears, but sometime it might do other chores. I think when it was discussed on here parts to do T/A delete are at least as expensive as new T/A

i have found in that situation to pull the TA back and release it then you can shift easy. but yes needs an ajustment.

what you need to do is do a main Clutch Free travel adjustment first then you adjust the linkage from the clutch release arm bellcrank to the T/A clutch arm . NOW due to age and extensive FIELD testing over the years sometimes tryen to do it by the book does NOT work . I use the main clutch free travel setting as a guide line for a starter and i think it is around 1 and 1/8th inch free travel , you do this with the T/A linkage unhooked from the bell crank , After you have this set now you remove the return spring on the T/A clutch linkage and get you turn buckle lessened up next you hold the T/A clutch release arm back against the T/A throw out bearing and adjust the linkage on the turn buckle so the headed pin will just slide back in with no slop then remove the pin and give it between 1;/8th and 3/16ths extra clearance then put everything back together and lock down the lock nut this should allow free shift . Sometimes on tractors with extreme ware you have to tighten the free play up more . Now as to one of them eliminator kits WHY they cost almost as much as a reman T/A and keep the value of the tractor . For many years i not only repaired I H tractors but also bought and sold , yes i was a Jockey . I can not tell you how many times i heard oh them T/A's are Junk and i would never have one and on and on about the T/A's Well my buddy and i were at a sale together like always and he and i bought two I H tractors that came from the factory with NO T/A's , solved the problem of a bad T/A and these should sell . Never have i ever had to CHEW on one tractor for solong , My buddy hauled that one he bought around to sales somuch i thought it was going to suffer from SHIPPING FEVER . I ended up getting a used MCV and a few other pieces and parts and puttiong a Reman T/A in that tractor and got it sold for good profit . If i was at a sale and heard them call BAD T/A i was on it and it was coming home with me . Once home in three days it had a new T/A and Clutch and a warranty to go with it and it was gone . The main failure cause on T/A starts with adjustments not being kept up on the old style and on Hyd T/A's it usen them as a Jake brake . Get yourself and I T manual and read over the T/A section . Ya got other questions just holler