1933 starting tank hood dimensions

Ron W

Member
Thank you Sadfarmall for all the pics. If I could trouble le, I just need some pics of the hood and where the hole is and what diameter.

I have a 3000 number f12 (can't remember the exact number) that was updated. See here in Ann Arbor, Michigan, you could take your old tractor to the dealership and they would update your tractor. Typically here, they would put a f14 head and breather, change out the webbed front bolster for the more durable solid cast front bolster, raise the steering wheel like the f14, higher seat, etc. They also repainted red.

This tractor has the upgrades, but it also has the more modern built in starting tank in the main tank, the heat control lever for the kero manifold. The manifold is the updated heiser gas one. The hood was missing.

I would like to return it to the 1933 model, I have a 33 waukesha, a 33 early ihc gas engine, and this one that should be kero.

I have a chain lift mounted plow, and a chain lift mounted cultivators to go on these. I also have the pie tin fronds steel and rear that look like they never were in the dirt, sharp points.

Thanks for the help sadfarmall!
 
No trouble at all. I'll see what pictures I can get this weekend. We had endless rain and cold wind today, so I wasn't working on the tractor. The upgrade package was not something we got here. Some F12 tractors were shipped to farmers in crates and came with a book for re-assembling. The field change kerosene package was available here, though nearly all F12 tractors here appear to have been set up for kerosene either before shipping from the U.S. or by IHC dealers here.
SadFarmall
 
Thanks sadfarmall. Wish we got rain, been 3
weeks and no where near a half 8nchbof rain
and forecast says another week before
chance of rain.

Thanks for all the pics. I owe you one.
Ron.
 
Sorry about the delay in getting photographs. Here are some pictures of the hood with starting tank bolts in place. I'll get some better ones with a more flexible tape measure. Apologies, somehow managed not to photograph more angles (operator error). I'll add them too.
SadFarmall
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Off-Side Front Bolt measured from front of hood


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Off-Side Rear Bolt measured from side of hood

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Off-Side Rear Bolt measured from rear of hood

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Distance between front bolts
 
SadFarmall, you are in Australia. Where did you get a tape measure in feet and inches? I thought you would be all metric.
 
Here are two more pictures at the front of the hood for the starting tank. I'll get more tomorrow forgot to charge the camera batteries yesterday
SadFarmall

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Off-Side Front Bolt from front of hood.


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Off-side Front Bolt from side of hood above magneto.
 
Ah, the dreaded metric question. Where do I start? Tape measures and steel rulers are still available in both metric and imperial measures. I even have a tape measure in chains and links. Bolts are available in metric, UNC, UNF and Whitworth at most hardware suppliers. Some still supply BA bolts. Timber is now measured in millimetres, but is actually in imperial sizes, so we have 19mm or 20mm floor boards, which are in fact 3/4" and 22.5mm boards, which are in fact 7/8". Farmall tractors assembled in Australia have both SAE and Whitworth bolts, so you need two sets of spanners to work on them.
SadFarmall
 
Some more measurements and information:
Hood is 26321D.

Hood length: 22 3/4"

Hole for starting tank: 3 1/2" diameter.

Hood width at front: 19"

Hood width at rear: 15 3/8"

Starting Tank Mounting bolts: 3/8" UNC x 1" with bolt head 9/16"AF and hex nut 5/8" AF.
Flat washer under bolt heads 0.77" O.D.


Starting Tank 26316DX
Top of tank is flat.
Filler neck projects: 0.577"
Tank depth to top of filler neck: 3.525"
Mounting bracket thickness: 1/8"

Of course, my tank has holes in it

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SadFarmall
 

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