I know better but gonna ask anyway . Shes fouling plugs and it would cost way more to rebuild correctly than shes worth . However, she is a tank and perfect for the terrible places I put her in to brush hog [ deer plots, cutovers, etc. ] My question is will spark plug extenders help keep from fouling plugs ? Also, will they cause other damage ? I used to run them in old small engines but never in anything larger . The 424 I H runs a c 146 engine which I assume is low compression . Fire away .

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Im not a beginner but certainly not an expert either . I do have access to the equipment to air up the cylinder [ mechanic friend] . The diagrams do show engine valve seals on this engine . I am still evaluating the symptoms and oil consumption . i USED TO ENJOY TEARING INTO ENGINES BUT AGE AND LACK OF TIME MAKE IT A LITTLE LESS ENJOYABLE THUS I appreciate all input as to whether it is worth a try .

i will give you guys a little clue if valve seals are required. if the guide is on a slant downward at the top from the valve stem it dont require seals. the oil runs off the valve guide and it gets a bit of oil for lube which is what you want. many people install valve seals once the guides are worn out thinking they can fix a problem with oil use. even worn out guides wont use a noticeable amount of oil. idle your tractor for 2 minutes then rev it up , if you see a puff of blue smoke out exhaust pipe you have worn guides. if you are seeing oil level down on dipstick with tractor hrs. of use u have a worn out engine. i am totally surprised as never ever hear here on info on the amount of oil their engine is using. i have replaced a lot of valve seals on chev's and ford engines from them getting hard due to the engine heat. all you do is hook up an air hose to the plug hole and that is what holds the valves up. i know i sure dont want to be messing with a rope trying to stuff it into the cyl. not yet a beginner trying to do it.

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I dont disagree with any of you and I love the old tractor but I suspect a proper ebuild would run me twice what the tractor is worth and then Id still have a bunch of other worn out parts . Its worth a try on valve seals although I realize it may not help much as others have indicated . Thought about going up ANOTHER HEAT range but concerned I may cause damage. Cureently running a Champion D 21

Warren - good luck!

I always figured when the day came for my 2424, that I WOULD rebuild the engine if necessary. Its done me great service for 33 years and worth it to me to spend more than its value to keep it going. But at my age, it may very well out live me as is.

Tim

if its fouling plugs that bad the engine is worn out. including the valve guides. these old tractors never even had valve seals. if you are going to install them just hook up air to each cyl and remove the springs and install the seals. i have replaced piles of valve seals on chev engines years ago. you did not say how much oil the engine is using. the cyls and rings may be worn and seals might make little difference. make sure you run it hot to help burn off that oil.

Champion D21 or equivalent. Or if you can find them the even hotter D23.

I've had excellent luck lately with NGK AB6 plugs in engines prone to fouling.

Currently running d 21 . It does take " awhile " to foul them . Thanks for the reply .

Look up the heat ranges of the brand and fit plugs you are using now. Choose one or two heat ranges higher. If it smokes most when Idling, Putting valve seals on it might just fix it. No removal of the head is required. We can help do that operation if you choose. Jim

Thanks . Might just consider trying seals . Will get back if I decide to go that way . Im guessing nobody thinks plug extenders are a good temporary option .

Janicholson ,

I will give seals a shot . Give me your procedure . Is it as simple as pull valve cover, secure valve not to drop into cylinder, compress spring, remove retainer and then remove and replace retainer . Ive been into a few engines but just realized Ive never replaces a seal .

That is the basic idea. With the battery disconnected, so it can't be accidentally rotated, use 1-1/2 foot long piece of 3/8 cotton rope to hold the valves up. Remove the valve rockers and pushrods. Get Cyl #1 near the top of compression. Push substantial amounts of the rope into the cylinder. Rotate the engine by hand till the rope is compressed into the chamber. Put the transmission in High gear with wheels blocked to prevent rotation. Use mechanics rags to lay over the pushrod holes, and other drain holes to prevent loosing keepers into the crankcase. Use a 3/4" deep socket and a plastic hammer to tap each retainer downward to break its bond. Then compress the spring and remove the retainer and keepers.
The valve guide may be already a machined cylinder. I would use valve stem seals that are Perfect Circle style (modern), if they are, because they meter oil into the guide to keep the stem happy, but prevent oil sucking past the guide. I would use umbrella seals if the guide is not a clean cylinder where the stem protrudes. Measuring the guide and stem is necessary to purchase the correct seals, as they may not be part numbered for the engine. Jim

Thank you , Sir! I may have more questions when I get started .