1962 340 utility clutch adjustment

I have obtained a 1962 in 340 utility the clutch engages at the very bottom which to me means it needs adjusted this tractor does not have a TA my question is. Is there an internal adjustment on clutch or just leakage on pedal? And what should free play be set at on pedal? Thanks

Between an inch and an inch and a quarter from the foot plate to where you can feel pressure as the throwout bearing begins to push on the fingers of
the clutch. Adjustment is by the rod from the pedal to the cross shaft on the left side. A set of worn out fingers, or a bad throwout bearing are
possible reasons for the issue. Worn finger pivots in the clutch pressure plate can also be involved. Clutch discs wear thinner, making less freeplay,
not more as yours has. so unless someone maladjusted it, there may be a physical reason the pedal goes down too far. Jim

thank you I adjusted it a bit it seems to hane helped a little but I feel you are probably correct in it needs a new clutch soon thank you for your time. Any change you know a good source fit parts for these old timers

Yes. right here on this site. The reason the Yesterdays Tractor site is free to us that love them is that the hosts sell good quality parts for good
prices, and stay in business. At the top of this page is a tab that indicates Tractor Parts That is access to their catalog. Welcome to the YT
group. Jim

thank you I am curious as to y everything I find on these tractors info wise says they have TA and mine doesn't is that a good or bad thing

Well it is a very common component that could be deleted from the order when built. So it is very possible for it to be factory TA delete. If
there is complex clutch linkage, that is more than a single rod and levers, it may have had the handle taken off. If it has a trans driven (non
live) PTO it probably doesn't have a TA. It is not a bad thing, but it limits speed choices to 5 instead of 10 (+ two reverse). No big deal.
Jim

gotcha it deliberately didn't have it only one linkage on trans pto is what I believe they call direct drive it have a lever on driver side by seat

A live PTO is about the size of a basket ball, but squareish. Its lever is big and on the right side with a button to hold it on or off. A
Transmission Driven PTO is the size of a plucked chicken and has a rod type on off control. JIM

mine figures have the large lever looks like old parking brake setup linkage runs to square box on back was told ours direct drive rpm to engine don't know of that is correct or not

It can have both TA delete, and a Independent PTO. (there should be an S at the end of the serial number). That IPTO is able to operate when
ever the engine is running even with the clutch pedal pushed down. A much better type for safety, and usability. Jim

pto stays locked on no matter what if clutch is pushed In it still turns best I can tell the serial ends with a P

OK. Jim

The IPTO has gears in it that reduce the engine speed to 540PTO speed. There are two contracting bands in it one holds the output shaft when
stopped to prevent rotation, the other contracts on a planetary gear to cause the PTO to rotate. JIm

interesting im guessing a band bad is why mine takes forever to stop or is that normal

Band PTO
Here is my take. Look at the linkage and be certain it has no lost motion, there are pins and woodruff keys in the system that can be loose.
Fix if found.
Place the lever 1/2 the way between the latching points of on (up) and off (down).
Remove the little dome cover on the PTO box. Under this will be two lock nuts and two adjusting screws.
The PTO should turn by hand (engine off).
Loosen the lock nut, and turn the front screw in until you can feel the shaft start to resist turning by hand. Loosen it just until it will
turn free, no more.
Do the same for the rear adjuster so that it can rotate free, but no more.
The front adjustment is the drive adjust, the rear is the brake adjust.
If the screws are down level with the adjustment lock nut top, the bands are worn, and will need replacing, or relining at a clutch shop. That
is not quite the book way, but I have used it many times.
Don't make it stop with the lever, kinda keep it in the middle of the travel so it just slows down. stopping that much inertia with a brake
just wears out the brake, and accomplishes nothing. The brake is mostly to keep things from turning when stopped, or stopping light tools.
Jim

I will look at that thank you for your help