I purchased a 460 D about 3 weeks ago. I have it starting good now. T/A works. I need a glow plug gauge and the generator is not working. Thinking about going with an alternator. After I get I charging I will be looking at the PTO. It had been setting outdoors for some time when I got it and the PTO runs all the time. It is not just turning, I can't stop it with a pair of channel locks. Can't turn it with the motor shut off either. Best I can tell it is the early clutch type. I am thinking the clutch disc are corroded together I just wanted to get you guy's thoughts.
- Thread starter jjamna
- Start date
560Dennis
Well-known Member
- Location
- Madison,Ohio
Well Im only familiar with the clutch type on the 560 D .
There is a planetary also on the 560 .
What the 460 D has Im not sure.
If it does not disengage I would suggest that the disengagement lever is not going forward enough . That my only thought .
I would drain it and put in proper amount of hytran .
Get the instructions to adjustments Follow them.
Please dont grab the Pto shaft with anything !
There is a planetary also on the 560 .
What the 460 D has Im not sure.
If it does not disengage I would suggest that the disengagement lever is not going forward enough . That my only thought .
I would drain it and put in proper amount of hytran .
Get the instructions to adjustments Follow them.
Please dont grab the Pto shaft with anything !
Dieseltech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Akron, Indiana
Early 460 and 560 used planetary PTO, late used the over center clutch type.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
This will help. If a band type. One of the most important and serious issues is linkage slop. The pivot on top of the axle often has a wallowed out woodruff Key. Look carefully at the rearward facing lever, and the front handle and move it through the range. There cannot be any lost motion there. Mine was moving 4 degrees before moving the lever on the PTO. If yours is loose fix it first. A new bigger Key, and a broached keway, plus dremel tool work to fix the key pocket can make them tight. This will allow stronger engagement and function.
Adjustment: A Band type with the adjusting screws under a small dome, first make sure there is no lost motion in the linkage where it pivots. Move the lever to half way in its travel and bungee it there. Loosen both bands so the shaft turns by hand. tighten the front band so the shaft won't turn by hand, then loosen it about 1-1/4 turns, or till the shaft just turns by hand, then the same with the back band. This allows the drive band to be fully released when braking, or the brake band fully released when driving. Jim
Adjustment: A Band type with the adjusting screws under a small dome, first make sure there is no lost motion in the linkage where it pivots. Move the lever to half way in its travel and bungee it there. Loosen both bands so the shaft turns by hand. tighten the front band so the shaft won't turn by hand, then loosen it about 1-1/4 turns, or till the shaft just turns by hand, then the same with the back band. This allows the drive band to be fully released when braking, or the brake band fully released when driving. Jim
CenTex Farmall
Well-known Member
On the clutch type, there should be a definite snap felt when it engages or disengages. With motor off should not be able to turn it when engaged or disengaged but should be able to turn by hand when moving from off to just before it snaps to on. It has a disk for braking when disengaged. Later style clutch with the plug on top can be adjusted with a tool to tighten or loosen clutch action.
I did this with the motor NOT running. Put a short piece of bush hog drive shaft on it. Could bounce it counter clockwise hard a little at a time. Turning clockwise it turns the fan on the motor. Before this I drained the oil. It had about a gallon of what looked and smelled like burnt motor oil.Put about a pint of Hy guard in then it ran out the hole.
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