806 stuck in 4th

I was clipping pasture and after backing up I shifted from R2 to L4 and when I let out the clutch it was like I was in neutral. So I reshifted from reverse to low and also tried to verify I was in 4th but I could no longer shift out of 4th. It feels like I could shift out IF I tried real hard and forced it. No noises, almost feels like it's the linkage?

I've never been into the tranny on this tractor. Anybody have an idea of what could have happened? It runs fine in 4th.

Thanks for any insight.

I thought my tractors were in my signature but no so this is on a IH 806 diesel.

With it running, move the TA from direct to reduction with the clutch down, and applying normal (not more) pressure on the shifter. If no joy,
make sure ther is no rolling force or pressure either backwards or forwards on the tractor and again give it normal shifting pressure, clutch
down. If still no joy, others will assist in providing the steps needed to get it out of gear, the linkage is composed of small parts and wear
points that can cause the bind, but go with what more experienced 806 posters tell you. Jim

Look down on the right side just above the transmission cover.You will see a shaft with a roll pin in there it either broke or moved so it blocks shifting.

In my previous reply I said look down the right side . That is still true. You will see where the plate for the park brake swivels through the side casting there your roll pin will be right there. It can be rotated some to either change or replace. That shifter can also be replaced with the 56+ series shifter if you like them better. It can be done fairly easy.

well since i am Not there if your having a BINDING issue It maybe caused by improper clutch and Dump valve adjustment as MOST shifting issues stem for these two being out of adjustment . Also does your OIL PRESSURE light come on in the right gauge cluster when your depress the clutch pedal and does it even work due to a burnt out bulb . So lets start with the BULB first and get it working and a plain old G E 57 Bulb will work , Next with the engine OFF lets check the clutch free travel . This should be 1 and 1/8 of and inch between the floor plate and the back of the clutch pedal at the ARROW . Once you have that set we move to the right side of the tractor and address the Transmission brake , here you will need a strong legged person for help . Unhook the rod from the bellcrank to the trans brake lever After you get the lock nut broke loose at the clevis ( this clevis maybe frozen and require Some added heat and panther juice as it must turn freely . Have the person setting in the seat depress the clutch pedal ALL the way down till the stop lug makes contact with the floor plate and HOLD it there while you hold the brake lever back as far as it can go then adjust the clevis so that the pin will slide in FREELY , once this is done let the clutch pedal up and ADD ONE MORE FULL TURN to the clevis and then reinstall the pin and lock down the lock nut . (now you may have to add a half to full turn if the transmission does not SLOW down in a reasonable time 0 Keep in mind that this brake is meant to SLOW the gears and not sstop them dead and HOLD them . Now it is back to the left side of the tractor , With the High Low rev shifter in N , park loc locked in start the engine and at and ideal now you unlock the lock nut on the long 1/4 inch bolt that goes to the dump valve and back off five or six full turns . This is where the OIL light MUST WORK FOR THIS ADJUSTMENT . Have your helper depress the clutch pedal all the way down to the stop lug and HOLD IT there and you slowly start to turn the long bolt into the clevis , your helper is to watch for the OIL light to come on and let you know the SECOND that it does as that is when you STOP turning that bolt in . Now that the light has come on with the pedal DOWN let the clutch pedal up go ahead and shut down the tractor and then ya ADD one MORE FULL TURN TO THAT BOLT and lock the lock nut down while you hold that bolt . You will need TWO 7/16th wrenches for this . When everything is set the way i have laid out she will shift like new with just two fingers as long as you do a full stroke of the clutch pedal and the oil light comes on as the oil light on a 06 does double duty it lets you know when the engine looses oil pressure and also when you loose pressure in the T/A and for easy shifting you have to dump T/A pressure

Wow, that's a lot of info to digest guys! Thanks!

Guess I'll start with the oil light, it's never come on and then spraying down everything with penetrating oil...

I finished mowing just fine stuck in 4th so hopefully it is something as "easy" as adjustments.

Can you shift the range transmission from hi to lo to reverse normally? If so it's probably not the clutch adjustment or dump valve, because that binds up the whole driveline, not just the speed transmission.

Yes, I can shift from high to low no problem and the TA works as before. Just can't get out of 4th to go to 3-2-1.

I still ought to make those other adjustments as I never knew they were a thing and it's not been done since dad bought it over two decades ago.

Ok, well Im feeling kinda dumb now...

I couldnt get the cowl sheet metal all the way off the other night because of the TA lever and I was in the middle of the pasture and needed the hand grab attached so I could get up and down.

So I assumed the shifter went into the center column and changed from vertical rotation to horizontal. This morning I was able to peak in there a little better and see it goes through the column and transitions to a short linkage with heim joints. That little bugger has dropped the bottom ball and the short linkage was binding with other parts and pieces to feel like it was hanging up (which it was but I was thinking that was happening inside the case).

I visit very few forums because of all the rif raf but I have a half dozen go tos like this one for precisely the conversations above. Quick and informative and helpful. Thanks guys. I may have more questions once I get this fixed and start the fine tuning, like the brake pressure adjustment...