2606 engine tranny split, parting of the red sea

Hello guys. Getting ready to pull the 2606
c221 under a tree to split it apart to
check the clutch, etc. Not sure where to
tie onto. Figure a come along, chain and
boomer over the limb as a backup, and two
heavy duty Jack stands for the back end but
can only think of a chain held by the 2
rear head bolts for the engine with a
couple chains around the bolster and over
the limb as a backup.

Any help and advice is appreciated. Still
haven't got the pistons freed up yet but
probably shouldn't do any heavy hammering
and prying till I get it back together.
Thanks.

Split only or completely take the engine out? I would take the engine out if you are that deep into it, and that one looks easy. Get it situated so you can unbolt the front(support with block the read end) and move the front out of the way, do not loose any small parts when taking it apart. Then unbolt the engine and take that out. I would loosen the bolts but don't remove first,all of them before doing the blocking. Once the engine is out you can roll it over(upside down) and take hopefully the crank out and push the pistons and sleeves out. I had to do that with a 560 D. I have a three car garage with a good floor in it. I used a engine hoist and several sets of blocks. Be careful the engine is very heavy in those. I have a 2000 lb engine stand but the engine hangs out in front a long ways and it is not balanced right. I was not concerned about keeping a lot of that engine so I set it on the floor on 6x6 next to the stuck ones and drove them down with a hard board on the boss of the wrist pin. Sleeves came with the piston. If you go gently(take your time) it may come apart with out damage(don't pound on the connecting rods as they can get damaged). The Diesel I took apart the sleeves were terrible and the engine was a salvage only block, tons of rust, fuel pump was locked up.

Thanks Roger. Took the head to the shop and pulled it under a limb so this shade tree mechanic can go to work in this 100 degree temperatures. Pulling it in gear didn't loosen it up and when I tried to give it a couple jerk pulls I managed to break the old rusty chain. Sure glad it was short and I was pulling on an angle cause that broken chain snapped back along side of my pickup without hitting anything. Knock on wood. Unless I forgot where reverse is on that thing, it just rolled freely when the shifter was all the way left and up. It was locked solid in all other positions.

I hear what you are saying but do you unbolt the governor and water pump housing to break the engine loose? Other than those, I see 6 big bolts on the front, 3 per side, but it seems like the front casting holding the radiator would flop over forward on the wheels flipping the bolster up.

Guess I will take it one step at a time starting with the clutch. Then maybe pull the pan and see if I can drive or Jack the cylinders out from underneath.

Thanks for your help.

Six big bolts is correct on front but I also forgot the wide front yoke in the middle needs to come loose. Water pump and governor can stay with the engine for now.

Help, help. Thought I allowed for iron to go flying anywhere but front end down. Was even ready to jump if the limb broke. I sure wouldn't want to make a living splitting tractors hanging from a tree. Took a while to split until I realized there was 2 long bolts at the top of the bell housing. Then once it was pryed apart it flopped over front down instead of the back of the block down. Made it easy to pull the clutch. Now I need to find the balance point. Any ideas?

I may turn it sideways, pull the pan, and work on the sleeves and pistons where it is easy to reach. I will make another post with pics of the clutch.

What started out as bolt on the manifold and carb plus slap on a little paint, has turned in to a need to call the banker. Thanks

Hello guys. Pulled the pan and 3 rod caps today. Put a 1 by 1 against the piston from the bottom and tried to knock out the pistons and sleeves. First with a hammer and then a 16 lbs. sledge. Nothing budged except I split a 2 by 4. Tried to drive a couple pistons down with the sledge and no luck. Looking at it from the bottom, I see pistons and casting like it doesn't have any sleeves. Any ideas? Should I use the torch on the block, rust ring around the piston, or on the pistons themselves? Will try to load pics.

On another note, my rebuilder doing the head says it needs all new valves and intakes need inserts plus all new guides. It already had exhaust inserts. Adding up to around 750 bux. Thanks.

You could take the block to te rebuilder and have them press the pistons out for you.

Hello guys. I was back at it today after a break to let the rust remover work. Could only get one piston out. Now I have a bunch of questions.

Pics are attached I hope. Side of the piston has some grooves but cylinder looks OK. Also look at the cylinders with 2 curved corners and tell me if they are removable as they don't look like it underneath.

Also look at the pic of the red bearings as it looks like there is some wear on top.

Tomorrow I am going to drop the crank to see if I can knock the pistons out and figure out what size the thrust bearing is. I don't have a micrometer but I will try to check the journals with a caliper if that will work.

It is looking like I will end up having to separate the block from the front end, governor, and water pump. Any pointers are appreciated. Unless the cylinders are removable and I can knock them out, I may have to take it to the machine shop. They get their parts from Reliance and then tack on another 25 percent so I hope I can do that myself. Thanks. Britt

Good morning. I need help getting the crankshaft out.

I got the block separated from the front radiator mount, front axle, and rear bell housing plate. I think I need to unbolt the front flywheel and then pull it off. After that I am not sure how the crank comes out. Looks like there are 5 main bearing caps to remove but I don't see where it can just be lifted out of there. The timing gears and cover are still attached on the front as well.

So far I have been putting bolts and parts in plastic baggies using a marker to write all identification info on the bag. Thanks, Britt

Hello guys. Got another update. Got 2 more pistons out and broke another. Other 2 are stuck good. Got it tore down except the front pulley and timing gears and cover so I couldn't pull the crank. I don't have the equipment to get the crank out. Time for the machine shop.

Turns out it is a sleeveless c-221 and I finally found a serial number stamped on a flat spot by the water pump. Says c-221 and the number is 50541. According to a 10 year old post, a sleeveless 221 come out of a 303 combine. Britt