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Discussion Forum
:

Removing M clutch shaft?

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Lowell Davis

04-22-2001 11:33:49




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The Lift-All reservoir on my '46 M was leaking oil, so I took it out to replace the gasket and do a proper job of sealing the fittings. Figured while it was out, I should replace the transmission drive shaft and countershaft oil seals.

The drive shaft coupling won't come off because there's not enough clearance to slide it off the shaft until it bumps into the clutch shaft. The reprint service manual I have suggests you can remove the clutch shaft after unbolting the clutch release sleeve carrier. Not in my experience! Now I have the opposite effect - the clutch shaft bumps into the transmission drive shaft coupling before it clears the splines on the flywheel.

About the only thing left to do is unbolt the clutch itself from the flywheel. I'm just wondering whether this will do me any good, or if I still won't be able to get the clutch shaft clear of the transmission drive shaft coupling.

This is starting to remind me of the bathroom project we did last year. We needed to fix the floor under the toilet, and by the time we we done we had taken the whole room down to the studs.

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Haas

04-22-2001 14:51:43




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 Re: Removing M clutch shaft? in reply to Lowell Davis, 04-22-2001 11:33:49  
Before you can get the clutch shaft out, you will have to remove three bolts of the six that hold it to the flywheel. Then reinstall them in the vacant holes that are there with washers under the bolts to compress the clutch. Then you can move the clutch disk around and when you get it in just the right position, it should come out. However, I found there was no way to get it back in, at least I could not until I removed the fork that works the clutch and the cross shaft that it is attached to. It is not hard to remove these and once you remove the clutch fork and the cross shaft and compress the clutch you can tilt the shaft enough to get it out. The manual I had said you could get the shaft out too, but it will not come until you compress the clutch so you can move the disk around.

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Lowell Davis

04-22-2001 16:45:17




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 Re: Re: Removing M clutch shaft? in reply to Haas, 04-22-2001 14:51:43  
Thanks for the tip Haas -

I already have the clutch compressed with the three cap screws, and the driven member spins freely. Tomorrow I'll try turning and tilting the shaft - so far I was just pulling straight out.

I even removed the other three screws that hold the clutch to the flywheel and tried to pull the whole clutch, but it's not budging.



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Haas

04-22-2001 19:28:56




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 Re: Re: Re: Removing M clutch shaft? in reply to Lowell Davis, 04-22-2001 16:45:17  
Well, next step is to take the fork loose from the cross shaft. Then pull out the cross shaft. Mine came out pretty easy. The fork is keyed to the cross shaft with 4 heavy washers that fit in half moon cutouts in the cross shaft. The washers are on the bolts that clamp the fork to the cross shaft. My experience, you have to tilt the shaft. It will not come out pulling straight back. Not enought room. If I were you I'd bolt the clutch back to the flywheel(at least loosely) before trying to tilt the shaft and take it out. That is unless you want to pull the clutch. It's a chore to get the clutch back up in there!

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cornfused

04-22-2001 14:46:20




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 Re: Removing M clutch shaft? in reply to Lowell Davis, 04-22-2001 11:33:49  
I replaced both seals on my 1950 M. You must take the pressure plate and clutch disc out with the shaft first. It's a Chineese puzzle, but it will work.



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Haas

04-22-2001 14:55:54




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 Re: Re: Removing M clutch shaft? in reply to cornfused, 04-22-2001 14:46:20  
Chinese puzzle is right! The instruction in the service manual added to the puzzle. It took me two days of greasy work and pondering before I finally figured it out. I think I could get the thing out in about an hour now. (not counting getting the lift all out)



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Charlie

04-22-2001 11:45:11




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 Re: Removing M clutch shaft? in reply to Lowell Davis, 04-22-2001 11:33:49  
I have removed the clutch and all connections from my 43 M through the opening for the belly pump so I know it can be done. Unfortunately it was about 15 years ago so I can't tell you much for details. I'm sure someone will be able to help you.



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