Super A Clutch Help

JobinCT

Member
Need Clutch Help!
Just replaced the clutch assembly in my Super A with YT kit #375493KSP. But the clutch isn't working. Push clutch pedal all the way down and the tranny grinds when trying to shift. If I force the shifter the tractor moves off with the clutch pedal still pushed down. I've adjusted the push rod nuts all the way back so as to get the most throw out bearing movement but still no go. I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Besides the kit I also had to replace the throw out bearing carrier as the old one was graphite and broken and cracked. TIA Job
 
I suppose that's possible! :roll: I installed it the way it was packaged together. Care to give me a clue which way it should go?
 
The center of the driven disc sticks out on one side, and is flatter on the other. This asymmetric shape fits toward the rear of the tractor. If put
in with the bulge forward, it hits the flywheel bolts and locks up. it also depresses the fingers so the adjustment seems way off. If the splines i=on
the clutch shaft have some wear on them, it is best to file, or dremel the burrs and riges to keep from causing the new disc to hang up during release.
No lube needed or only a spray of dry PTFE based spray. Make sure the pilot bearing in the end of the crank is lubed with a 1/2 finger tip of grease.
Jim
 
I am attaching the parts diagram for the Rockford clutch option. I think it shows the proper installation direction as Jim has described it. The raised part of the center hub of the lined clutch plate No. 10 has protrusions that house the cushion springs. When assembled the inside of the pressure plate face, No. 8 has clearance for that raised portion to fit in.
CaseIH Super A clutch diagram
 
I don't know if the Super uses a bearing or
bushing for the pilot but I remember
splitting my Cub several times after a
clutch job to hone/smooth the pilot bushing
and shaft before the clutch would stop
dragging.

Chris B.
 

Thank you all! Looks like I'm needing to split Lucy again and see where I messed up. Most likely put the clutch in backwards, but I'm not positive.
Thanks again for the great help!
 
I took a couple pictures of an A or Super A clutch I had laying around. You can see the disc hub side goes in the pressure plate, flat side to flywheel.
cvphoto4555.jpg


cvphoto4556.jpg

If you can't find anything else wrong You can adjust the fingers through the hole in the bottom but it's a pain in the azz. Wouldn't think you'd have to do that on a new clutch.
cvphoto4557.jpg


cvphoto4558.jpg
 
All right, Here goes. The clutch WAS installed properly! Hurrah for me, But when I undid the 6 bolts holding clutch pressure plate assembly in I noticed the clutch levers raising up, like they were already depressed when bolting it in. So my problem will still exist if I just reassemble as it was. Ideas and suggestions please. Thanks, Job
 
The clutch fingers will "compress" as you tighten down the pressure plate to flywheel bolts. That is normal.
 

WOOHOO! SUCCESS! Just don't ask what I did to correct the problem!! I split Lucy, removed everything I put in, checked it over, found nothing obvious, reinstalled same. I did adjust the finger bolts a couple of turns each, there just seemed to be a lot of play in them. She runs just fine, like she should!
Thank you for your assistance!! JobinCT (But now in WA)
 
(quoted from post at 20:40:22 05/14/20)
WOOHOO! SUCCESS! Just don't ask what I did to correct the problem!! I split Lucy, removed everything I put in, checked it over, found nothing obvious, reinstalled same. I did adjust the finger bolts a couple of turns each, there just seemed to be a lot of play in them. She runs just fine, like she should!
Thank you for your assistance!! JobinCT (But now in WA)

Well glad you got it working, after reading about you adjusting the finger dug out my book on the B which I would think maybe the same for a C, but not 100% sure, and found the spec's on setting the figer height.
mvphoto54906.jpg


Note that in the text paragraph the dimention is not clear but in the drawing you can see the height is 2 23/64 inches. Not sure how easy it is to measure that with tractor assembled but might be worth a try at least to measure it to see how close you have it.
 

Wanted to edit the last message but as you can not here I'll just add that I have to wonder why the engineers felt they had to have that dimension in 64ths of an inch. I find it hard to believe rounding it up to 2 3/8 of an inch would make a noticable difference!

Like is anyone working on these tractors still have eyesight that would let them focus on on 1/64th of an inch on a ruler?
 
Two things you still need to do:

1. Get the clutch fingers to the correct height. You may well be barely in tolerance now, but after a little use suddenly you'll have problems again.
2. Get your clutch pedal free play to the correct measurement. You can wipe out your throwout bearing very quickly if it is rubbing on the clutch fingers constantly. It's supposed to be spaced off the fingers slightly unless you're pushing the pedal.
 
(quoted from post at 09:41:36 05/15/20) Two things you still need to do:

1. Get the clutch fingers to the correct height. You may well be barely in tolerance now, but after a little use suddenly you'll have problems again.
2. Get your clutch pedal free play to the correct measurement. You can wipe out your throwout bearing very quickly if it is rubbing on the clutch fingers constantly. It's supposed to be spaced off the fingers slightly unless you're pushing the pedal.

Good point on item 2.

If you can zoom in a bit on the picture I posted you can see where it gives the 1/2 inch spec for the throw-out bearing to fingers.
 

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