Farmall BN Water in my oil

bennettre

New User
I have a 39 BN and when checking the oil last week it looked milky. I drained it and got 10 quarts out and it definitely had antifreeze in it. Pulled the head and do not see anything as far as obvious failure with the gasket. turned the engine over and could not see any crack in the cylinders or head. Ran fine, no smoke. Could the head gasket be failed and not really show it?


tested antifreeze and it was good to -25F. don't think it could have froze and has not gotten hot that I am aware of.
mvphoto54640.jpg
 
pull the oil pan and stick a cardboard under it over night and see if you have sleeves leaking. make sure block is full. head gasket don't look the best.
 
Even just looking up at the underside of the sleeve/block interface might show the leak. Wet sleeves are prone to that Oring failure. Jim
 

My C-123 engine had water in the oil twice. First time I replaced the head gasket (you could see the stain) and had the head rebuilt. Second time (10 yrs later) pulled
the oil pan and water was leaking from #2 cylinder ('O' Ring leaking) when pressure was applied to the radiator. Installed a new engine kit (sleeves, pistons, rods, 'O'
Rings, rod bearings, etc). No more leaks.
 
(quoted from post at 12:47:22 05/11/20) pull the oil pan and stick a cardboard under it over night and see if you have sleeves leaking. make sure block is full. head gasket don't look the best.

Agree that head gasket don't look that great to me either. Does not have to be a large chunk out of the gasket to cause a leak.

Case in point would be my BN when I rebuilt the engine in it 30 or so years ago I bought the gasket kit from I believe it was call Central Tractor back then.

It was a Felpro kit so I figured it would be good. Well shortly after getting the tractor back running I found I had a little coolant in the oil.

Did as rustred suggested to you. I had removed the head like you did then I filled the block with coolant and let it set for a few days with no sign of a drip.

Then I started looking at the head and head gasket real close. Don't recall the exact details, it's been over 30 years, but noticed the coolant holes in the gasket did not match perfect with the coolant holes in the block and head.

Did some research in a Felpro catalogue at work and stumbled on a note that mentioned that there was a different gasket depending on the S/N range of the engine. Forget if mine was in the newer or older group but as the gasket that I had installed was Felpro and the part number was on it I took the chance and ordered other part number. Well 30 some years latter I still don't have coolant in the oil!

So even a new gasket that looked perfect could leak then a gasket that looks like that one while I can not say it "IS" the problem I would not rule it out till all other things are checked.
 
(quoted from post at 16:37:41 05/11/20)
(quoted from post at 12:47:22 05/11/20) pull the oil pan and stick a cardboard under it over night and see if you have sleeves leaking. make sure block is full. head gasket don't look the best.

Agree that head gasket don't look that great to me either. Does not have to be a large chunk out of the gasket to cause a leak.

Case in point would be my BN when I rebuilt the engine in it 30 or so years ago I bought the gasket kit from I believe it was call Central Tractor back then.

It was a Felpro kit so I figured it would be good. Well shortly after getting the tractor back running I found I had a little coolant in the oil.

Did as rustred suggested to you. I had removed the head like you did then I filled the block with coolant and let it set for a few days with no sign of a drip.

Then I started looking at the head and head gasket real close. Don't recall the exact details, it's been over 30 years, but noticed the coolant holes in the gasket did not match perfect with the coolant holes in the block and head.

Did some research in a Felpro catalogue at work and stumbled on a note that mentioned that there was a different gasket depending on the S/N range of the engine. Forget if mine was in the newer or older group but as the gasket that I had installed was Felpro and the part number was on it I took the chance and ordered other part number. Well 30 some years latter I still don't have coolant in the oil!

So even a new gasket that looked perfect could leak then a gasket that looks like that one while I can not say it "IS" the problem I would not rule it out till all other things are checked.


Thank you everyone. Looks like my weekend plans are all set. It will give the o-rings a look.
 
(quoted from post at 09:47:22 05/11/20) pull the oil pan and stick a cardboard under it over night and see if you have sleeves leaking. make sure block is full. head gasket don't look the best.


Well, you were right, 3rd cylinder from the front is leaking water between the sleeve and the block. Thank you for the guidance. Suggestions on best place to get tools and parts kits?
 
Well, you were right, 3rd cylinder from the front is leaking water between the sleeve and the block. Thank you for the guidance. Suggestions on best place to get tools and parts kits?

Well at least you found the cause so that much is good.

When I did my BN I had the engine out of the tractor so access to push the liners out was easy with no crank in the way. Doing it with crank still in the block would just require a bit more care. I would start by removing the pistons and then try using a piece of hard would to tap up from below, or maybe use a jack to push up.

I hope it goes with out saying that you need to keep the rod caps matched to the rods and also note which way they face, usually rods are marked with the cylinder numbers and the numbers face towards the cam shaft side of the engine.

The other important thing is to get everything clean! This includes the surfaces the liners sit on at the top and the area the orings touch at the lower end.

If you need anything like torque spec's or torque patterns just ask I or someone else can supply those.

As for where to get parts I hope someone who has bought them recently can advise, I know the people who run this forum sell them but have not had any need for them so can't say how their parts are one way or the other.
 

I tore the motor down and removed the sleeves. The sleeves do not look pitted and the O-ring looks good as well. Not sure why it was leaking but she will get all new now.

Any suggestions on installing the new sleeves to ensure they don't leak?
 
Use dish soap on the o-rings when installing the sleeve. Also make sure the area of the block where the O-rings sit is good and clean
 
(quoted from post at 13:53:21 05/28/20) Use dish soap on the o-rings when installing the sleeve. Also make sure the area of the block where the O-rings sit is good and clean

Will do. Thank you.
 
(quoted from post at 07:56:56 05/29/20)
(quoted from post at 13:53:21 05/28/20) Use dish soap on the o-rings when installing the sleeve. Also make sure the area of the block where the O-rings sit is good and clean

Will do. Thank you.
have always used cooking oil, corn oil or any veg oil on the "O" rings.
 
(quoted from post at 08:49:53 05/29/20)
(quoted from post at 07:56:56 05/29/20)
(quoted from post at 13:53:21 05/28/20) Use dish soap on the o-rings when installing the sleeve. Also make sure the area of the block where the O-rings sit is good and clean

Will do. Thank you.
have always used cooking oil, corn oil or any veg oil on the "O" rings.

I'm sure either would be fine but just for kicks this is what the official factory manual says:

" The seals are placed in the crankcase grooves dry; the tapered outer surface of the cylinder sleeves are coated with a soap solution about the consistency of jelly. This soap solution acts as a lubricant for entering the sleeve into the rubber seal ring and does not harm the rubber ring. Lower the sleeve into position making sure the rubber seal ring is in place. Push the sleeve home. If the rubber seal ring is in place and not pinched, very little hand pressure is required to push the sleeve completely into place."
 
What procedure do you use for break in? I have instructions for the first 30 minutes but why is 50% load? How do I get it there? 75-100%?
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top