ONE H OF A TIME with H Brakes

Just a word of caution. Farmer Bob gave you good instructions. However, if you have trouble removing the old oil seals and think the seals are in a bearing retainer, think again. This pinion housing cannot be removed until you remove the bull gear on each side and drop them out of the housing on the inside. I learned, along with several others, the hard way. Pulling this cast housing with the jack screws will hang on the bull gear and break something, if you do not clear the gear inside first. Your best bet is to be careful and successfully remove the old seals without needing to pull the pinion assemblies. These assemblies are shimed to get proper gear loading and this becomes a whole other project to replace. Good luck, just take your time.

Tom

You know what? I'm fast approaching the eighty mark and every time I tackle a project on my ole H, it becomes a brand new experience, since I forget what I done the last time. Ordinarily after I get the first bolt or nut loose, then suddenly my memory starts getting refreshed. They aren't too complicated, to be sure, but good luck.

The Undertaker

I recommend installing two new seals on each side as they are about half as thick as the old ones. You can position them so they will rub on different places on the inner drum housing than the original seal rode. This should eliminate the need for speedy sleeves which are quite spendy for that large a diameter/depth. After you get the old seals out check those large bearings behind the seal for slop/wear/missing balls. If you have to replace them they run about $45-50 ea from Case/IH dealer. Bearing supply houses may be cheaper.Good luck.//FB

I was too busy socializing to relate what my manual says about the adjustment. If it is the band type, as mine is, the set screw at bottom screws in all the way, then back off one quarter to one half turn. The pedal free travel is achieved by the brake rod and clevis and needs to be adjusted by screwing in or out the clevis until there is one inch and a half distance between the brake pedal and the top of deck at front edge. If you want to go all the way, the book recommends locking both pedals together, jacking up the rear and running in third or fourth speed to determine if both clevis rods are adjusted to same effect. Personally, I'd be too lazy to go THAT far. Be safe in either case. I'm not sure, but is Farmer Bob referring to disc type brakes? If so, I'm not familiar with them!

The Undertaker