Farmall 240 in frame rebuild kit

Hattrick

Member
I am looking to do an in frame rebuild on a 240 due to cracked sleeve. I have bought parts from this site in the past and have been very happy other than high shipping cost so maybe it is a dumb question but are there recommendations for a good kit? Considering YT or Agkits. Prices are comparable but want the best parts.

Also trying to mic the rod jornals and they are a little over standard. How safe is it to go with .002 bearings?

Also is it possible to swap the main bearings without pulling the crank? I know it would not be ideal but was wondering if it czn be done.

Thank You
 
it will not work to put in .002 undersize brgs. the crank does not wear evenly all around. It wears in an egg shape.what clearance do you have now on all brgs? good to plastigauge before tear down also. then check with new brgs.
yes can change mains in tractor. you use a cotter pin in the oil gallery hole and make sure the head sticks out just enough to catch the brg. when you turn the engine over by hand it will roll out the brg. best to loosen the other main caps beside the one your working on. anything but Chinese is ok. clevite for example. dealer would be best.
 
I was able to order an overhaul kit from NAPA. freight free in 3-4 days.Yes,NAPA can get tractor parts,too.
 
I was able to install 0.002" rod bearings on my Farmall Super C. You may have to spend some time sanding down the sides of the crankshaft journal that aren't worn. Get a couple
rolls of course and fine emery cloth, cut a piece off and and work it back and forth.
Emery Cloth
 
ooh my that is crude work. the crank journals are polished. i don't care what kind emery u use the journal is still rough. its machine shop work with the proper machines to do it properly. no don't do that and poor advise! better off to just install new brgs. might be a bit more clearance but better that green advise.
 
removing metal from a crankshaft with sandpaper with crank in the engine is a joke. I ha a job where we extrueded aluminuim to make toothpaste tubes the punches were bearcat rc hardness in the 60s and to remove even a thous or so on a finished punch in a speed lathe with sandpaper was not easy so doing a crank in the engine would be a joke have fun.
 
What size bore are you going to use. Pull a sleeve and take it with you and have it miked where the o-ring goes so you get the correct sleeve it should mike out around 3.45 and that means you can go with the 2 1/4 bore and have 135cu in and more horses up in the 30 pluss area
 

I was just thinking about going standard bore as I really do not care about the Horsepower so much. Also would rather have the thicker sleeves. Not so sure why. Really mostly hung up on rod bearing size as it is really hard to mic in the tractor. I think STD would be the way to go without machine work. I was thinking that they made the .002 sets for just standard wear but maybe not the case.

Also is the C123 block in the 240 different than the other C123 engines? I am assuming the internals are the same?

Mike
 

Gene,
On my MD the larger sized sleeves have to go in the same bore in the block so therefore the sleeves are thinner. I am not sure how else they would do it. I see that they do make domed piston kits but I have seen a few guys complain about some cheap kits having issues with these but I see that even IH sold that version.
 
Not exactly the way I do it, see link. I wouldn't do this with a high RPM automobile engine crankshaft, but I've done it more than once to a low RPM antique tractor engine. It's not hard to take off a few thousandths where you need it.
Crankshaft polishing.
 

They do make .002 rod bearing but not sure on the mains. Is it unreasonable to think I could use .002 undersized on the rod bearing if they are a little worn? I have not been able to successfully mic them as the measurements I have made show them just around 1.75 which would make them standard. Standard may be the safe route to go. I will likely plastiguage the originals to see what they show and go from there.
 

That is what I was wondering or thinking as otherwise it seems you would just turn the crank .010 or more. Right?
 
If they measure standard, then standard is what you need. Are you using a micrometer or calipers to measure with? Micrometer is what you need to use and you should have no issues measuring a rod journal for taper and out of round with one.

These poor little engines are low rpm, low horsepower. They suffer more from neglect then they do from hard running.

Plastigauging an old bearing on your crank will only tell you the clearance you have with old possibily worn bearings. Plastigauging with new bearings will tell you your running oil clearances, that s what you really need to know.
 

I am using a decent quality micrometer but without a ratcheting handle and with it being in the engine it is a little hard to be precise. They do all seem to measure about the same but strangely I am measuring .001 to .002 under the STD size. I need to go do another run through today. The oil in it was like molasses so not super well care for but it has also been setting for a few years. The rod journals look very decent so I think that I will just polish them a bit with crocus cloth and probably go with standard size. Worst case I will need to buy another set.

I also need to pop the main caps and see what they look like. I was just to try and save this little tractor from the scrap yard which I think is now doable as it had a cracked sleeve. Now it is a matter of how far I go. I am really trying to stay away from tearing it all the way down as I already have too many projects.
 
yes the sleeves are thinner but that is the way I-H did those engines. Going to 23thous over on the bearings will work if using a ball mike measure the old inserts easy to do. The bottom line is just how far do you want to go. All we have now is a cracked sleeve. What are we using the engine for those engines are sturdy and meant to last a hundred yrs and look they are 3/4 there now. So either replace the sleeve and go or remove engine and do everything.
 
Are they measuring .001-.002 under nominal, or minimum spec?

You need to take two measurements of each journal, at minimum, at 90 degrees to each other. That will usually tell you how egg-shaped the journal is.

As far as the parts go, YT doesn't make their own parts. So, you'll be getting a kit from one of the major suppliers of engine parts. It may well be exactly the same stuff as you'd get from AgKits, or even NAPA.

Between the hardcore collectors getting older and passing on, and the tractors that do get overhauled, not being used hard enough to wear them out again any time soon, demand for engine kits is not what it used to be, so there aren't as many suppliers out there anymore. Several of them have been consolidated lately as I understand it.
 

I am measuring them at just under 1.750. The description on the STD rod bearing set says that Standard journals measure 1.750. I guess that would be about right...

On the rebuild kits there are differences in quality and I just do not want any cheap chinese junk. From what I understand the Reliance Kits are OK and I have had good luck with the YT parts I have purchased but it has been a few years.

Thanks for the help everyone!
 

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