H lift points on block

DD in WA

Member
I'm removing the engine on my 42 H for a complete rebuild. Have most everything removed including the head and ready to remove the block from the tranny. Where do you attach the chains to lift the block? On the front looks like one chain can go where the water pump was attached but where in the rear? Stupid question I know but there doesn't seem to be an obvious place to attach.

Thanks,
 
We used to use a short length of chain &
bolted to the block with bolts that go in
the head bolt holes. Opposite corners on
the block to balance it. Lift so you can
balance it as it moves away from the bell
housing. If I remember correctly, there
are alingment pins in the bell or block -
it's been a while since I have had one
apart. jal-SD
 
(quoted from post at 09:52:03 01/17/20) We used to use a short length of chain &
bolted to the block with bolts that go in
the head bolt holes. Opposite corners on
the block to balance it. Lift so you can
balance it as it moves away from the bell
housing. If I remember correctly, there
are alingment pins in the bell or block -
it's been a while since I have had one
apart. jal-SD

When the head comes off all the studs remained in the block. Did you remove a couple of those studs and then attach a chain to the block with a bolt there? Is there an easy way to remove those studs?
 
(quoted from post at 10:22:36 01/17/20)
(quoted from post at 09:52:03 01/17/20) We used to use a short length of chain &
bolted to the block with bolts that go in
the head bolt holes. Opposite corners on
the block to balance it. Lift so you can
balance it as it moves away from the bell
housing. If I remember correctly, there
are alingment pins in the bell or block -
it's been a while since I have had one
apart. jal-SD

When the head comes off all the studs remained in the block. Did you remove a couple of those studs and then attach a chain to the block with a bolt there? Is there an easy way to remove those studs?

Instead of trying to get the studs out I removed the water jacket cover and will use one of the bolt holes there along with one of the bolt holes on the front where the water pump connects. See any problem with this? Will get some grade 8 bolts.
 
I use the head studs but I also have a bar that has a set up where the lift is up and no sideways pull on them
 
Put a chain link on the studs & cut a short piece of pipe to fit & put a nut on top.
That way it will not bend the studs.
 
It might not be hard to turn a couple studs
out with a vicegrip or pipe wrench as long
as you don't snap one off (that would be
bad). I turned a couple out pretty easy on a
wd6
 
Grade 8 bolts are not necessary. The bolts that came out of the engine are quite sufficient.Any of the sugestions below are quite acceptable. 'Pick your poison'.
 
I prefer to lift from the head
bolts/studs. I use a regular stud
puller. A pipe wrench or vise grips will
sometimes work. I will remove the studs
and use a bolt if possible. If the studs
are rusted I will just use a piece of
pipe spacer as was previously discussed.
 

Thanks for all the suggestions. To close the loop on this one: I ended up using the bolt hole where the water pump goes and the bolt hole from the water jacket cover on the other end of the head. The water jacket cover needed to come off an be replaced anyway. Seemed to work okay.
 
If you end up buying one of the new aftermarket water jacket covers, pay attention when you put it back on. I bought one for my H when I restored it because the old one was really thin in spots and possibly a pinhole or two, although it wasn't leaking when I took it off. Anyway, the new one had the baffle/coolant director or whatever you want to call it welded to it with a big gap so that it hit the cylinder casting before the water jacket cover would adequately compress the gasket. I didn't notice when I put it together, because it wasn't obvious and look like it tightened down good. After I got everything nice painted and assembled, I had a coolant leak there. I pulled it back apart and figured out what it was and the only two solutions were to cut the piece off and reweld it correctly, which would have ruined the paint on the piece, or just put a second gasket. I chose the second gasket for the mean-time and it hasn't leaked since.
 

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