Hydro 84 Transmission Replacement

chris4905

New User
Hi All,

I have an IH Hydro 84 s/n: 1-H84-B600212B008286.

Like many Hydro 84s the hydrostatic transmission has gone bad, it will hardly move itself, less do any work.

I have contacted the local Case dealer and the replacement/rebuild/etc is VERY expensive. So expensive it's probably about the value of the tractor.

I have found a rebuilt replacement transmission, with a warranty, for $5,544.00.

How difficult is it to do a swap? I'm mechanically inclined and have done car, pickup, motorhome, engine/tranny swaps/upgrades, but never a tractor. Is there anything unusual or any hidden "surprises" I need to know about, or is it pretty much a remove & install and then hook up the linkage?

I believe I have most of the tools and related items (cherry picker, another tractor for hoisting, etc...) I think I would need.

The tractor has a 2250 loader attached, which I think would probably have to be removed, maybe a big job, but it can of course be done.

I sure would also appreciate any info anyone can give me about my tractor from the s/n.

I'm a newbie and this is my first post to this site. I also have a new JD, but I'm very attached to the Hydro84 and sure don't want to put it out to pasture.

Thanks in advance for any help and/or info you can pass on.

Chris
 
The Hydros aren't like an "automatic transmission" in that they use hydraulic motors instead of clutches and they are really, really tough.

Just a layman's view, but I'd guess that 95% of all Hydro replacements are unnecessary and are just done for "ease and convenience".

Does your tractor operate differently forward vs rearward? Cold vs hot? Lo vs Hi?

Ya might just need a good tune up on the old gal.

Allan
 
don't know about the hydro, but to remove that 2250 loader should be a 10-15 minute job. my experience is with a 2350, but I think it's the same procedure. Pull the 2 pins, set it down, slowly back out of the loader while powering it off the tractor with the hyraulics. then disconnect the hyd hoses.
 
Allan,

There IS a difference between operation, Hot vs. Cold. When first starting and cool, it has significantly more "pull" than when it warms up.

At all times it has more pull in reverse than in forward.

Reference Lo vs Hi, when in high gear it pretty much just sits there and the RPMs raise, but she doesn't move. Even in low gear, I can't even get enough pull to drive it onto a flatbed trailer.

Thanks fellas !! I'd sure like to hear more opinions please.
 
Can ya lug the engine down in reverse? I.E. Aside from the normal 50% gear reduction, does reverse seem "more or less" normal"?

What I'm getting at, is that the transmission uses the same components in both directions. Therefore, if one direction is okay, the unit has to be sound and there is just a hydraulic flow problem in the forward routing of the oil.

However, if both directions are really lame and "slippy", the chances for it being a fried pup go up quite a bit. Weak in both directions is when ya start keeping an eye on yer wallet. :>)

Allan

insidehydro2.JPG
 
Thanks Allan, I'm going to get on it this weekend and see if I can get it to lug down in reverse.

I appreciate all the input.

THANKS to all !!!!!
 
(quoted from post at 10:02:10 08/28/08) Thanks Allan, I'm going to get on it this weekend and see if I can get it to lug down in reverse.
I appreciate all the input. THANKS to all !!!!!

Hi Chris4905, Allan in NE and ChrisAS or anyone:
I have a chance to buy a IH Hydro 84 tractor with loader for a (hopefully) reasonable price. It has been parked in a machine shed for many years because of the exact problem referenced in this discussion thread. Did anyone ever come to a conclusion or possible "fix" for this hydro /transmission problem.
I am a newbe here, but would appreciate any information that any of you folks may have to offer. In advance, I thank you.
B Giese in ND
 
(quoted from post at 18:33:30 01/06/20)
Hi Chris4905, Allan in NE and ChrisAS or anyone:
I have a chance to buy a IH Hydro 84 tractor with loader for a (hopefully) reasonable price. It has been parked in a machine shed for many years because of the exact problem referenced in this discussion thread. Did anyone ever come to a conclusion or possible "fix" for this hydro /transmission problem.
I am a newbe here, but would appreciate any information that any of you folks may have to offer. In advance, I thank you.
B Giese in ND

Hi and welcome to the forum.

One thing, please note that the thread you replied to was from 2008. Please even if your question is directly related, start a new thread so as to avoid confusion.

The biggest disadvantage to replying to an old thread like this is that people tend to read the top post, and reply to that, completely missing your question. You're doing yourself a disservice by resurrecting the old thread.

Anyway, hydro transmissions are not something that the average layperson can "fix" in their dusty shop. Other than a few external valves and some basic testing, there is not much you can do. The internals must be overhauled in strict CLEAN ROOM conditions, and some parts must fit to .0001" tolerances as I understand it. It's something you really want to leave to the professionals.

Herrs Machine Hydrostatics are the professionals you want to work on such a transmission. You don't want it done at a CaseIH dealer because it's been 40 years since that model tractor was sold, and even a young mechanic who would know how to work on one of those has retired by now. You would be getting someone, probably a young inexperienced kid, trying to do this rebuild from a book. Herrs does them every day.

The key is getting the tractor cheap enough that you can put in the transmission and have a decent tractor without spending an excessive amount of money. You'll have more into it than it's worth for sure, but you'll know you have a good tractor for a long time if you take care of it.
 

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