756 Transmission Tell Light

Sillik4

New User
Hi my name is Bill,first time poster longtime lurker. : :D I have been trying to adjust the clutch on 756 my diesel the way the Tractor Vet describes in the archives. I have some questions about the transmission Tell light O had to put a new bulb in O could not find a be 257 to replace it so I put in a Sylvania 1895 which is supposed to be a cross for it. Anyway to the questions when I press in the clutch to the stop the light comes on and stays on until I release the clutch pedal during the adjustment this is were I get lost. When I,m making the dump valve adjustment do I depress the clutch to the stop or a inch away from the stop. When making the adjustment do I want the tell light to come on or off. I have read so many old posts I have myself confused. Thanks All
 
Really quite simple. The purpose of the dump valve is to dump all pressure to the TA when you
push the clutch pedal down. The reason is so the TA cluch will release allowing the gears to relax
and allow rollback . Other wise there is tension on the gears making it difficult to get the
tractor out of gear.

When the pressure to TA is dumped that is the same pressurized fluid that feeds the lube circuit
so no fluid to TA means no fluid to lube circuit. The red light is hooked into the lube circuit
and when there is no pressure the switch at lube circuit closes and provides a ground for the red
light.

So, yes, when you push clutch pedal down, red light should come on. Now to adjust dump valve you
want that red light to go out before the main clutch start to move the tractor. Reason is so the
TA clutch is fully filled before main clutch starts to pull tractor . If TA clutch is not filled you will get a double
shift when you release the clutch all the way.

When adjusted properly, tractor will roll back when you push clutch pedal down when on an incline.
It will also abruptly stop rolling back, red light will go out also, just before main clutch
starts to pull tractor. As far as the light bulb, I prefer the non blinking one like you installed as the blinking ones often malfunction and don't blink when they should or only blink once or twice even when they should keep on blinking. Replaced many of them over the years.
 
Ok here we go , this is so simple even a cave man can do this . First set the clutch free travel engine OFF at 5/8th's of and inch on a 756 between the back side of the clutch pedal and the ft. of the floor plate (there is and arrow on the left side of the clutch pedal to massure from ) Once you have that adjusted and the lock not down and tight your next move is the dump valve . First loosen the lock nut on the long adjusting bolt and back it off five to seven turns , Put some one in the seat that is still breathing and some what a warm body , Start the tractor and leave in ( N ) with the park loc down DEPRESS THE CLUTCH PEDAL all the way down to the stop lug is touching the floor plate and HOLD . Now SLOWLY turn the adjusting bolt in and as SOON as the tel tale light comes ON STOP , let the clutch pedal UP and shut the tractor off . NEXT ADD ONE MORE FULL turn to the dump valve adjusting bolt and set the lock nut while holding the adjusting bolt so it does not move . You are now done with the left side of the tractor and you move to the right side and do the trans brake . On this depending on how much ware is in the linkage will set the stage on how you adjust the trans brake if everything is nice and tight and on this i doubt your adjustment can be from 1/2 turn on up to two full turns , BUT well will go with the AVG. here , With the tractor shut off have your wqarm breathing body setting in the seat depress the clutch pedal all the way to the stop lug once you get the lock nut broke loose and the clevis freed up . Sometimes you may have to work on this free up thing . I have had some that required HEAT a vice and a pipe wrench and with the aid of a tap and die set to get them freed up and turning free . With the pedal down move by hand the lever/ ARm of the clutch/ trans brake BACK and HOLD it tight against , now adjust the clevis to a point where the pin will slide in FREE thru the clevis and hole in the ARM/ LEVER, now let up on the clutch pedal and remove the pin and add one more full turn and lock the lock nut down and try it . This brake will NOT stop the gear from turning as soon as you step on the clutch pedal but it will slow them down and bring them to a stop in a few seconds . It is sorta a feel thing that ya learn over time as to what is good . Book settings worked well when NEW but due to extensive field testing and abuse things ware out get sloppy and ya have to throw the book away and learn new ways of dealing with this. Now as to your NOT finding the 257 bulb that bulb is a BLINKER bulb and none of the young pup's know this , Back when we had REAL parts stores and you got what you asked for i would order in two BOXES of ten bulbs in each from our OLD parts store . Today try and get a BOX of ten bulbs all they want to sell you is the two bulb blister pack for more then a box of ten cost and they never heard of the 257 , it is still made , just have to find a parts store to order in a BOX . Before O Riles and i had a go around and before this NEW bunch of IDIOTS that work there now i could get Jobber packs of bulb's now they won't take the time to get me jobber packs and tell me oh this is the only way we can get bulbs . SOOOOOOO since i have a bad sense of humour I told them fine close out my account and i will never darken your door again and besides i am tired of the junk parts ya sell after four ft wheel bearing failures on two cars in less then 4000 miles. I DO NOT LIKE WORKING ON CARS OR TRUCKS let lone going back in on a job i just did .
 

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