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300 cam bearings.

Yea if you have the tools , but it is still a real pain to do . As you have to PULL the back one and that can turn in to the fight of your life . If you have never done cam bearings before in your life then i would say leave this for the Professionals and don't try this at home . IF you screw up when driving one home and get it off there is NO driving it out and lets try again as that bearing will not set proper and can and will start moving . If you do not have the proper driver you can damage the bearing while driving it in . Hey i even mess up sometimes .
 
Good to know. I'm going to call a friend from a local machine shop. With his tools it should work fine...hopefully?
 
You may find that they no longer have or use the OLD cam bearing extractor as when they do them in house they drive the bushings out the back and NOT PULL them and you will be pulling the block anyway.
Last person that i knew that had one that i could borrow was a bddy of mine as he USE to go out and bore engines in chassis and turn cranks with out pulling them , BUT like all old friends they die . When Dick had his first heart attach he offered me his complete machine shop for a cool quarter mill , now that was a buy of a life time but there was no way i could come up with that kind of bucks . What he was asking for loc stock and barrel was what he had in the one piece of equipment . But you can check with your buddy .
 
Not saying it would be impossible but I
can't see being able to pull back bearing
toward the front of the engine. If by some
tool I've never seen, possibly. You could
put them back in if you had the right cam
bearing tool with drivers designed to fit
those bearings.
With todays tinfoil quality bearings it's
wise to put the cam in without the gear on
first to see if it spins freely.
Good luck with the project.
 
The cam's never been out, and the front oohs is wiped. I have another, good cam and lifters and want to be sure to match the journals to the bearings.
 
You do know the oil pump needs removed to remove the cam. Need to ease cam in and out and keep lobes from dragging on the bearings
to prevent damage. If the bearings look okay and best if you could measure for spec I would reuse. Also a plug at rear of cam
bearing can be dislodged and leak oil. Don't think the steel plate will let it come all out but maybe enough to leak. Just
something to think about if trying to remove rear bearing in tractor, or driving cam gear on after cam is in. Like to mount gear on
cam first myself. If the cam gear is a new one made to the last design IH sold they fit tighter and was recommended they be pressed
on when cam was supported behind the front cam bearing journal. That said I have installed them in tractor by keeping the the cam
forward from underneath with help which would be my wife.
 
Thanks for that, i using the original cam gear. Can the cam and bearings be accessed from underneath if the pan is removed? Also do you know std.measurements for the journals and bearings?
 
You can reach up to the bearing holes from crank side but not sure if you can inspect or measure very good. Never installed with
engine block in tractor or crankshaft in myself except the front one. I have pucks sized for the 3 different size bearings, but
installing cam bearings and setting up ring and pinion mesh is a worry job for me. Triple check or more and still worry I missed
something. Also the bearings need to go in turned a certain way. Camshaft bearing journal measurements for a new cam with one being
front. One 1.9305 to 1.9315, two 1.8055 to 1.8065, three 1.3680 to 1.3690. clearance between cam journal and bearing ID .0015 to
.0035 ideal, max for use .006. Does your cam gear have the number 6664DA on it?
 
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