560 Injector Lines Stuck....

Absent Minded Farmer · Dec 30, 2019

I have the big fittings on the lines free, but the line itself still turns with the fitting. I am holding the injectors themselves with a wrench & they are not turning. Tried tapping on the lines & it makes no difference. Tried penetrating oil & no deal. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Mike

jhncp · Dec 30, 2019

The only things I can think of is try going back and forth with the 3/4 wrench rapidly , try tapping on line the same time your doing that, maybe try kinda tapping nut/line into each other, and if all that fails try a vice grip on line while you work it.

Absent Minded Farmer · Dec 30, 2019

Thanks, I'll go give that a try.

Mike

Dieseltech · Dec 30, 2019

The Ermeto line ends usually need the lines smacked with a wrench after the nut is loose, the line sleeves wedge in tight to the inlet fitting.

Absent Minded Farmer · Dec 30, 2019

Yep, tapping on the lines, with a vice-grip to hold the line in place worked. They were still binding, so I used the other penetrating oil. Mouse milk. Should have used that in the first place. Say, are you set up to test injectors also? I may just send them along if you are. The engine has low hours on it, but I'm interested in seeing if they are still atomizing properly.

Mike

Dieseltech · Dec 30, 2019

I can clean and test the injectors, but if it were mine I'd leave them alone. I only pull those injectors if I KNOW there's a problem with them. Early type have no parts available, and late type are over 100 bucks apiece for the valves. They don't have much of a spray pattern being one hole anyway, mainly have to hold pressure.

Absent Minded Farmer · Dec 30, 2019

I have to pull the injectors & glow plugs anyhow to replace the o-rings for the pre cups. Also, the tractor is getting a rebuild to be my main horse for next year & would rather not cut corners if I can help it.

Mike

Phil Tibbetts · Dec 31, 2019

If you are smart you will listen to Dieseltech and leave the injectors alone.. IMO

Dieseltech · Dec 31, 2019

While the head is apart, have it machined for all new valve seat to get the valves flush with the flat head surface. If the valves and seats are just ground, all valves will be sunk too low which WILL LOWER the compression and cause harder than normal starting/rough cold running.

Absent Minded Farmer · Dec 31, 2019

Will do! Say, how do I get the injector bodys & pre cups out without breaking anything? Is it as simple as evenly prying up under the lobes or will that just break them off?

Mike

Dieseltech · Dec 31, 2019

I've never broken any injector ears prying them out, some looked like they had been in a war though. If both upper and lower pre cup gaskets were sealing correctly injector and cup will slide right out. If the head bore has carbon buildup use a brake cylinder hone to clean the bore. The injector O ring is for dust only, it won't hold compression, that's what the cup gaskets are for.

Absent Minded Farmer · Dec 31, 2019

No 1 was weeping out fuel & No's 2 & 3 were always damp. Do you think I should change out 4-6 or leave them be if they were dry?

Mike

the tractor vet · Jan 1, 2020

Myself i prefer my ELF hammer i paid way tomuch for my wrenches to use them as a hammer.

Absent Minded Farmer · Jan 1, 2020

Would that be a extra large f***** hammer?

Mike

560 Injector Lines Stuck....

Absent Minded Farmer

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Absent Minded Farmer

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Phil Tibbetts

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