Hello all, Got a stuck clutch on a 51 M. Bought it that way about a year ago, but probably won't tackle the issue until spring. After taking the valve cover off and seeing the gunked up mess of the rocker arms, etc. I can see why it's stuck. Been sitting for several years more than likely but always under cover at least. I assume you can drop the hydraulic pump and work on from underneath or split the tractor. Both ways have good and bad points. I'm sure I'll get 6 of 1 and half a dozen of the other opinions but would like to hear which works best and why. The tractor does run pretty good so it seems worth it, plus I just enjoy messing with tractors - like many of you. Thanks everyone.
- Thread starter Al in Il.
- Start date
I had an N series ford with a stuck clutch and did this to break it loose. Have someone on the tractor with the tractor in gear. Disable the ignition circuit so the engine can not start. Have the person hold clutch down and manually energize the starter for a BRIEF moment. The clutch might break loose but be aware the tractor will try to move if the clutch does not break loose. This worked for me the first try. I think the sudden shock the starter puts on the disc helps to break it loose.
I agree with Charlie M splitting is not that hard with some equipment. Here are a couple pictures of a clutch job that I did on a SM. You also have the ability to flip the starter ring gear on the flywheel, that seems to be a bit of a sticking starter problem on these older tractors.
the tractor vet
Well-known Member
In the time your messing around dragging it from here to Alaska i could have the belly pump down clutch popped loose and back together heading to the field and i am getting old and slow.
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Yup splitting is not that bad, *IF* you have the right equipment.
On an M you don't need any equipment aside from normal combination wrenches to go at it from underneath.
The ones that are telling you to split it are going to tell you to leave the clutch and pressure plate loose and bolt them on from underneath to make pushing the halves back together easier. Doing it that way you're going through 3/4 of the effort it takes to do the entire job from underneath, so why bother splitting?
On an M you don't need any equipment aside from normal combination wrenches to go at it from underneath.
The ones that are telling you to split it are going to tell you to leave the clutch and pressure plate loose and bolt them on from underneath to make pushing the halves back together easier. Doing it that way you're going through 3/4 of the effort it takes to do the entire job from underneath, so why bother splitting?
I had to replace the clutch on one of my m's last summer, as the fingers on the pressure plate were worn off, in taking apart, 2 of the bolts from clutch to flywheel snapped off, last guy must of torqued them to 150 ft lbs or so. After I got the new clutch in place and bolted with the remaining bolts, I just welded the new one to the flywheel where the bolts are missing. Worked just fine, and if it needs to be changed in another 75 years, you can just use the side grinder to remove the welds. I know, not the approved way to do it, but easier than spending a few days to get the broken bolts out of flywheel.
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