IH 1066 clutch slave cylinder

1975 IH 1066, working fine, pulling fine. Then clutch cylinder badly leaking hydraulic fluid. Had mechanic who talked IH talk, replace seals and o rings in clutch master cylinder. Drained (all 5 drain plugs) and changed hydraulic fluid, including filter. Added 25 gallons. Clutch no longer works. Worked barely enough to get it out of building but will not move forward or reverse now. Mechanic says fix clutch. Clutch was working with no issues. Former owner said slave cylinder adjustment. Can't find any info. Please any ideas ? Hate to split tractor to replace something that was working and still should be.
 
I have a couple quick questions.

Does the power steering work now?

Did the TA work previously to doing the clutch assist repair?
 
If it if full of Hytran to the mark, put in 5 gallons more. Turn the steering wheel back and forth a bunch and it should work. I think the cylinder on the clutch pedal is a powwr assist to
help push it against a tough Pressure plate tension. The extra oil helps it prime, and covers an often defective Oring and pickup tube Jim
 
The steering works. The brakes work. I've only owned the tractor since spring 2019 and never touched the TA. Used tractor quite a bit this summer discing small field and mowing farm. Mechanic had to come back to adjust because I couldn't even get clutch to floor to engage rear push button to start engine. It has cab and removed left battery cover to get to one of rods. A little here, some there (below) and finally clutch depressed to start tractor. Before adjustment, started by having someone push rear button, as that time clutch would not depress even half way and gears freely moved to one or another with no tractor movement.
Only a little over full with 25 gallons of hydraulic fluid, will add another 2.5 gallons for the 5 gallon over full standard. IS there a slave cylinder? Saw about a 966, but mine obviously in different place. Don't think mechanic snowing me, but don't think he knows as much as he thinks he does. And haven't yet come up with another mechanic.
 
If I understand you correctly, the clutch worked fine before you had the clutch booster cylinder
repaired. Or, did the pedal not go all the way down even before your mechanic worked on it.

OK, does the clutch pedal try to by it's self after tractor is running. If not assembled
correctly or totally misadjusted it will activate the internal valve passage.

But, most likely, it is not adjusted properly. Some guys try to adjust the free travel at the
rear adjustment near the pedal. That adjustment is so there is near zero play with the internal
piston fully retracted to the rear , toward pedal. Then you adjust the free travel of release
bearing on the front adjustment. Next, adjust dump valve so red light goes out just before main
clutch starts to move the tractor. Then transmission brake so normally one to one and a half
turns of tension with pedal fully depressed forward.

You can easily see if release bearing is contacting clutch fingers causing clutch to always be
released when engine is running, by looking in through lower inspection plate. Bearing must not
touch fingers until you depress clutch pedal. At least 1/16 inch clearance. Any tractor with
clutch booster or reduced effort pedal (which is also part of booster package) uses less free
travel than standard pedals.
 
Correct the clutch pedal worked fine prior to replacing seals and O-rings. It went all the way to the floor. I only 'think' the clutch master cylinder is what was repaired. The rod from the clutch pedal went into this cylinder that leaked and those seals were replaced. It that's the booster cylinder, fine, if the booster cylinder is something else, maybe that's what the former owner referred to saying the slave cylinder might be out of adjustment. Sorry for being tractor ignorant, working on it.

Today, gonna get another 5 gal bucket of the Chevron 100 THC to add half to the tank and see if any improvement.

Will read remaining carefully again and have a closer look at things at the tractor. Gonna try to drag it into building with chain and truck. Might even touch base with mechanic so he can weigh in on input and suggestions. Thank y'all for the input so far so much improvement.
 
News and interesting about need to use the TA once in while. I was avoiding it, but also didn't have a need for it that I was aware of. Former owner just cautioned repair costs big time if I used it improperly. When we're rolling again, I'll give it some appropriate exercise once in awhile.
 
Well since neither Pete or myself are there to see for ourselfs all we can do is guess and try and tell you what COULD BE the problem and what and where to look . Under the bell housing is a long narrow plate that has two 3/8ths bolts houlding it on ( IF it is still there ), grab a 9/16 wrench and remove the plate . Start the tractor and with the engine running , the transmission i NEUTRAL , Park loc. engaged , wheels BLOCKED and engine at ideal take a flash light / trouble light and look up in and see IF THE THROW OUT BEARING is touching the pressure plate fingers or there is a small air gap between the two . DO NOT STICK YOUR HANDS OR ANYTHING UP IN THERE WHILE RUNNING . IF when you find pieces and parts come falling out when you remove the cover then ya got BIG problems , if there is a small air gap between the throw out bearing and the fingers on the pressure plate then ya got problems . IF the there is NO air gap between the fingers then go grab the socalled MECHANIC around the throat and tell him he screwed up And he does not have the set up done correctly . On a 66 sires tractor the clutch free travel is 5/8ths of and inch between the pedal and the leading edge or the floor plate and the booster on the pedal end should be against the snap ring and like Pete said ya make free travel adjustments at the end coming from the bell crank on the throwout bearing end . THEN once you have your free travel set then ya do the trans brake then the T/A dump valve . NOW as to usen the T/A correctly you use it when you need iot for extra PULLEM power through tough spots or starting a load out in a higher gear and once through a tough spot or have a load moving you shove it forward FAST into the high side . What YOU don't want to do is use the T/A to slow down with that is what the brakes are for and you do not want to lollygag shifting one in other words ya SLAM SHIFT them FAST . DO T/A's fail yep they do so does everything else at some time or other BUT when well cared for they last many years . My one close friend bought a 1066 that was a RAG and we literately had every nut and bolt out of that tractor and have rebuilt repaired Everything and that was thirty some years ago and now she is coming up on the second T/A in thirty some years and THIS IS ON EUGENE's tractor and he can destroy and anvil with a rubber hammer in 30 seconds.
 
As for slave cylinder or booster cylinder, in this case would be referring to the same cylinder.
Actually a slave cylinder is one that receives it's flow of fluid from a master cylinder like in
brake systems in automotive use and some tractors. Or also used on farm tillage like field
cultivators where you have master and slave cylinders.

Booster cylinder (or assist cylinder) is a cylinder that increases the boost by utilizing a lesser
force to introduce a greater force like your foot effort being assisted by hydraulic pressure over
and above what your foot effort. Clear as mud, right.
 
You mentioned that it went all the way to the floor "before."

So you're saying it does NOT go all the way to the floor now?

If yes, then the free play adjustment is all out of whack like tractor vet says.
 
Thank you for comments and input. Let me digest this and get up close and personal with tractor some more. I managed to haul it into building yesterday, even moved some under its own power. Added to hydraulic fluid and let it warm up for half an hour plus. Rainy day, did not want to press my luck and see if it would go for a spin. Will report progress soon. Thank you again.
 
I have been reading the answers and comments on this and doing some more thinking here. I know,
dangerous. Anyhow, you said you weren't really using the TA. Might be the TA does not pull in
low range and only the free wheeling lock up clutch pack did pull the tractor if you even tried it
in TA low range.

Now, what I am trying to get at here is that if that clutch booster is just dumping all the
regulated oil back to sump and the TA is bad in low range, you will not have any movement or only
slightly if a bit of pressure is lightly engageing the TA hydraulic clutch pack.

Easy to test to see if oil is just going right through that clutch booster. All you have to do
is unhook the return line that goes to dump and only a few drops should come out when running the
engine. I have seen that happen one time years ago when the valve inside stuck.
 
The only thing hydraulic about the main clutch is the booster unit that was "fixed" by the "mechanic." Adding hydraulic oil and "warm up" will not have any effect on the dry mechanical clutch on your 1066.

In troubleshooting a problem that "suddenly" appears after something was messed with, 99.99% of the time, whatever was messed with is the direct cause of the problem.

I'm still of the thought that the booster is way out of adjustment, you have negative free play in your clutch, and your clutch is being held mostly disengaged. That's why you can't push the pedal all the way down. Do what tractor vet says (strangling the mechanic being entirely optional, I prefer yelling) to troubleshoot. 5 minutes on your back under the tractor and roughly a half dozen bolts will tell the tale.
 
FIXED. I don't really have the how, but kudos to mechanic Robbie for perseverance, integrity, his own curiosity and willingness to get the job done..., without charging me more for his extra time. I expect a job not well paid for, but happily completed and now a loyal customer. He ditched the specs advised in the shop manual and started over with linkage adjustments, went by 'feel', and we have success. My 1066 is back in action. In the end it was the 'adjustment' as y'all suggested. Thank you gentlemen for you input.
 
Glad to hear it's fixed and the mechanic made things right.

It was more likely a misinterpretation of the book information, rather than incorrect book information, but that's all water under the bridge now.
 

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