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TD15B no start no turn over

O

old

Well-known Member
So put thermostat back in and filled with antifreeze. Set 2 batteries in and hooked them up. Then for the life of me I could not find a starter button. So tried to jump across the solenoid but it would not spin over. So weak batteries of locked up starter. I know the engine is not locked up and I know the starter is not locked in the flywheel since I can turn it over by way of the fan
 
Also forgot tot add this. I did find the starter button per say it is parts of the gear shiftier., When I try to make it start by way of the correct way I get a click form the solenoid but the starter does not spin up at all. Before I even tried to start it I garbed the fan and turn the engine over 360 degrees plus so I know it is not locked up in any way
 
Well not to be a smart alec. Are all the connections clean and tight, then are the batteries up on charge. A D 407or even a DT407 should start readily with just one 1000 amp gp 31 battery on it. We start our 806,856,1466 with just one even in the winter in MI. If all that seems to be good, then I would start with a look at the solenoid connections on the big bolts. Can you get a single wire on the trigger bolt on the solenoid.b Then you can jut touch it to the battery bolt to see if it is the switches or the solenoid. And of course if that is working and not turning things then short the big bolts on the solenoid if the starter motors with out the gear engaged then I would suspect the solenoid. If it will not motor then I would suspect the starter motor itself is bad.
 
Yes it is 24 volts. I put in 2 batteries and wired them up in series so as to have 24 volts. When I tried to jump across the 2 big terminals on the starter the spark I got did not seem to be as strong as I thought it should be. After I had tried that i checked battery voltage on both and both had 12.1 and the other 12.3 which says the battery voltage was bit low. I'll be back at it on Sunday and will bring 2 other if not 3 batteries with me so that maybe that will get it to turn over and hopefully start. I'm doing this so as to be able to help him sell it I think. I know I sure wish I had the $$ to buy it. Plus when I do get it running I get tot drive it about 150 yards after I figure out the control that is. Never driven a TD15B. Have driven many others brand and all but not this one. I had a TD6 years ago but this thing makes that TD6 look small
 
This one has a 24 volt system. As for connection they all seemed tight and I got a fair spark at the starter when I jumped across the 2 big terminals. As for the batteries they did just come off a charger but I have no way to load test them so do not really know how good they are. Sunday I'll be going back to work on it and I'll bring at least 2 if not 3 batteries with me that I will take out of running machine so I know I will have good batteries
 
Rich, to your statement "both had 12.1 and the other 12.3 which says the 'voltage was bit low"

FYI for a flooded lead acid 12 Volt battery at rest and stabilized at 67 Degrees F

12.1 Volts is around ONLY 50% Charged
12.3 Volts is around 75% charged

12.61 Volts would be full charged

Hope this helps, take care best wishes and hope you get her going. Be careful when jumping that much energy across starter terminals even with half discharged batteries !!!!!! I couldn't count how many times I've seen batteries blow up in similar circumstances.....

John T
 
Yes I knew from the readings i got both where a tad bit on the low side of charge even though I had them both on the charger before I put them in the trunk of my car. But ti was also only in the mid or low 40s today which does not help. I know 12.5 plus is what you want for a full charged battery and 12.5 is a tad on the low side. But one also has to take into account that the common VOM is no where near calibrated so any reading you take is ball park at best
 
It should have at least made an attempt to spin the engine, you are correct. Cables can be bad inside the cable. Another issue might be that the starter drive could be sticking on the shaft. If it does, the solenoid will not reach the contacts to turn on the electricity to the motor windings. If better bats don't fix it, I would check the wires first (for heating) then pull the starter and bench test it. Jim
 
"But one also has to take into account that the common VOM is no where near calibrated so any reading you take is ball park at best "

CORRECT all I can do is post accurate voltages such as 12.6 = full charge (NOT 12.5) but the quality and accuracy of the volt meter and the user I CANT SPEAK FOR LOL

Take care

John T
 
Yes. I have 2 digital VOMs and one on the resistance scale will read 3 or 4 ohm with just the 2 lead held together and the other reads zero like it should. So I know for sure the one is a bit off and it I where to use it for volts I am sure it would also be off there
 
Ah but it should have spun up when I jumped across the to big studs on the solenoid even if the drive did not move. I did get sparks but not what I would have expected with 24 volts
 
I had them in series just like they where wired with the 2 old dead batteries so yes in series
 
I've used and owned a ton of cheap and expensive, digital and analog, meters over the years and had similar experiences. The more expensive of course are more accurate and are more apt to correctly register 12.6 volts (six cells in series 2.1 volts each) for a fully charged flooded lead acid battery at rest and stabilized. The cheaper ones maybe 11 or 12 or even 13 LOL. In my arsenal of test equipment for flooded lead acid batteries I have a Voltmeter, a Hydrometer, and a Load Tester, with those three you can get a pretty good idea of the battery condition and state of charge, with ONLY a cheap volt meter not so much.

John T
 
The one I used yesterday was not mine but the guy who's machine I was working on. It is Sperry VOM with amp clamp so I know it is likely to be a lot better then my $5.95 TSC special I keep in my car
 
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