H, Keeps cutting out

WiJay

Member
I have a IH (H) my plow tractor, Was running fine then just quit.
Came back an hour later started right up, ran for 20 minutes then just died. I checked the spark from the Magneto and it was very weak. I replaced the points and rotor still weak?
Any suggestions?
 
Feel the coil immediately after it quits. It will most likely be very hot.As it gets hot it develops an 'open' in the winding. after it cools the open closes and it will run till it gets hot again.A newcoil will cure your problem.
 
Probably coil, gas cap may not be venting properly.
Next time it dies, remove gas cap and see if that
helps.
 
Just picked up a new condense, (New to Magnetos) how do I replace it, do I need to take the magneto off? Is there any where I can get instructions?
Thanks
 
Is the Magneto Coil the same as Magneto Winding ? Sorry guys New to Magnetos..
The Magneto is a H4

Magneto Winding for F4 or H4 - Coil Winding for F4 magneto and H4 magneto; molded, hi-output. 2 inch wide, 3/4 inch hole, 2-3/16 inch outside diameter. Can replace 47439DA. Magneto Winding for F4 and H4 Magnetos used on: F12, F14, F20, F30, H, MD, WD6, W9, WD9
 
It will not start now, placed a spark tester light from magneto cover to the distributor cap..the light is very weak.
 
Magneto winding the same as coil winding or coil?

Magneto Winding for F4 or H4 - Coil Winding for F4 magneto and H4 magneto; molded, hi-output. 2 inch wide, 3/4 inch hole, 2-3/16 inch outside diameter. Can replace 47439DA. Magneto Winding for F4 and H4 Magnetos used on: F12, F14, F20, F30, H, MD, WD6, W9, WD9

Thanks Jay
 
A mag takes a special coil made to fit just that mag and no other mag. This site is likely to list them
 
Take the mag off as the condenser goes out the side towards the engine. Watch where the rotor is pointing so you get it on in time again. I center punch the flange & casting where it bolts up to so it will be timed as before.
 
Ah but condensers almost never go bad but many new ones and bad right out of the box
 
Have a Farmall C that did that. Found after a season of tillage frustration, it was a piece of the Erie times funny paper. It would get suck int the fuel ⛽️
port and block it , Then released it self and start over .
Don?t think that?s your problem ,but never rule any like this out, so open the drain on the carburetor And look 👀
 
Ah but many people do not have a tester for that and then even if they do many would not know how to use it. I don't remember the last time I replaced a condenser. Points yes condenser no
 
Replaced the condenser, points and rotor and getting a good spark, but now to time it..It fires up but backfires so I could have the mag 180 degrees off or timing way off.
Unfortunately didn't mark position.
How to get the rotor positioned right ?
 
Got the new condenser in and have good spark, rookie mistake, I didn't mark the Mag and may have it turned 180, not sure but it is backfiring badly.
Got #1 cyl. to TDC the rotor pointing to #1 on the distributor cap.
Wiring on the cap Viewed from sitting on the tractor is #1 (2 o'clock) #3 (4 o'clock) #4 (8 o'clock) #2 (10 o'clock) roughly.
What is a go starting position to start with on the Mag to just get it running and then dial it in from there?
Need to get this going..its my snow plowing tractor..
Thanks Guys
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top