working on a 560 d

tn terry t

Well-known Member
we are workin on one of our ole 560's went to button up the main bearings and snapped off one the bolts. don't know why the bolt broke didn't even get it tight. anyway took the cap back off and turned the broken section out with my fingers. problem is when I look at messicks web site the asking $63 bucks for one main rod bolt :shock: what would yall do ? im thinking about hunting up some used ones
 
must have rod bearing on the brain for some reason I broke the crank shaft main not the rod 70133R1 is the bolt im looking for thanks
 
Don't surprise me as the are getting plum sick in the head on pricing anymore . Myself i would start making calls to the bone yards as someone my have a engine with a hole in the side that will sell you a couple new bolts . Never looked into looking for any myself as to what makes them so special other then being a grade 8 bolt X number inches long . I H is great at using bolts in the 1/4 inch inkerments like a 2 and 1/4 or a 2/3/4 and when you go grocery shopping else where all ya can find are bolts in 1/2 inch , 2-2 1/2 3 3 1/2 , at times it can mess you up and there are times i end up making what i need . Not sure where in this country you live as to where to send you looking for a used one . I would be taking a long hard look at the rest before installing then for signs of stretching or twisting . I have put a lot of engines together over the years and the only time i had a head bolt/ nut give way was on a M and a 450 . Also make darn sure your torque wrench is dead on . I was down at a customers farm putting and engine together he took apart ten years earlier and i was getting ready to PUT the mains in and put the wizzy to them and started to walk out to get my torque wrench and said here use mine it is brand new ---- Harbor Freight So ok and i start to pull and oh wait a min here this is NOT wright and stopped and went out and got mine and yea his new was way off like out in the back forty off and had i kept pulling till it clicked yup i would have twisted that bolt . When i was done torquing them all we had a show and tell at the bench vise as to just how far his was off . You twist enough bolts and nuts you get a FEEL for what is about wright for said bolt and you know when you are going way past.
 
I was just talking to a friend today and he told me about working on a JD that had been disassembled several times. He asked the owner to get some new rod bolts and owner said no go ahead and use these. A few hours into the OH tractor threw a rod through the side of the block
 
well you can actually feel a bolt stretching before it snaps. I have experienced that. stop pulling on the torque wrench and removed the bolt replaced it and finished torqueing the head. had that only happen once in all my years of head torqueing. could see on the bolt also it was stretched. was on a buick engine.
 
this bolt must have been cracked because I never put any torque on it as a mater of fact I had a 3/8 drive rachet running the bolts in when it broke. the bolts were washed in the parts washer. I didn't see anything wrong with them . I guess its just one of those things
 
I would check to see if ARP has anything that might work. Somewhere you can find all their hardware listed by dimension. I would
be suspicious of the rest too. Maybe they got overtightened on a previous build or maybe there was some corrosion on there.
 
Post this question on the Red Power forum, many engine rebuilders there. CAT has a replacement for the
main cap and rod cap bolts at a reasonable cost. Either do a search there or ask the question in the
engine catagory. Was about a year ago it was discussed, maybe 1-1/2 yrs.

I'd replace both main and rod cap bolts.
 
Wisconsin tractor parts black Creek. Aka all
states ag. Many locations of salvage. Seem
easier to deal with than most other places.
 
ok fellas I think I may have found what I need from ARP. I've found the right thread length right grip length and over all length says " heat-treated 8740 chromoly 180,000 psi tensile strength to provide a substantial extra margin of safety over Grade 8 hardware" problem is I don't know how hard the original main bearing cap bolt is. how about it yall think these will be ok? and oh yea $46 bucks for 10 bolts

thanks for all the replies
 

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